67-72 frame bolt kit

[tcrist]

Does anyone sell a complete kit with all of the frame bolts? I know someone that is restoring a 71 and wants to use all new hardware for everything.

I did search but I might be using the wrong keywords.

Thanks,

[Elliot949]

Wes At Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts here on the board can probably help you out or try Classic Parts of America... That is who ALL of my stuff comes from... The guys there are great to deal with unlike LMC...

[davepl]

I bought close to $1000 of stainless from Totally Stainless. Essentially everything they offer for our trucks. I'd say it covers about 50% of fasteners on the truck if you ignore the drivetrain. There's a lot of bolts in these trucks!

But what frame bolts? My frame is all steel rivets. Unless that's special to the C20+ units.

[tcrist]

He removed everything including the rivets and had everything powder coated. He is replacing every nut, bolt washer screw, ect.

Thanks,

[Elliot949]

Fastenal is another good choice... just make sure the shank of the bolt is a snug fit in the hole using grade 8 fastners...

[trkfrk]

I used stainless steel bolts in all of my sheet metal but none of my chassis components. Stainless steel bolts are, in most cases, just slightly stronger than Grade 2 hardware store junk bolts, and in nearly all cases, significantly less than Grade 5. You do NOT want to use common-grade stainless fasteners in any application that would call for a hardened (Grade 5 or Grade 8, or stronger) fastener.

[tcrist]

The guy would like to find someone that reproduces OEM style hardware if possible. He does not want to use any Stainless hardware. He wants it to be as original as possible.

Thanks,

[Elliot949]

There are no NOS bolts for the frames of these trucks due to the fact they were riveted... do finding what he wants isn't going to happen as a OEM part... the only thing he can do to make is OEM is to rivet the parts back together...

[davepl]

Elliot - I assume you meant OEM style bolts, but it's true of NOS I suppose too!

But I don't get it - why would OEM style hardware be important if you're drilling out OEM style rivets? He could re-rivet it, or use Grade 8 hardware maybe.

If you can confirm the strength is high enough, here's a source for stainless steel rivets. I presume you'd need a forge and tongs and pneumatic hammer and stuff.

http://www.itpbolt.com/products/rive...d-dome-ss2.pdf

Remember stainless has its limits. For high strength appplications you often have to go a chromium steel grade 8 bolt that has been plated (with chrome for example). But not made of it.

I took mine down to every fastener and briefly considered drilling out the rivets but could not find data to convince me that (a) it would improve my powder coat job at all or (b) that I would be able to rebuild the frame as square and strong as it was. Remember a rivet has no threads or interface to fail. And if they're made out of tool steel (I doubt these particular ones were) they're incredibly strong.

In fact I think it's in the bible... let no man separate what GM hath joined.

Eithey way, make sure whatever fasteners you use to put it back together are not just pretty, but strong. I'd be ARP makes fasteners that are strong enough.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by tcrist

The guy would like to find someone that reproduces OEM style hardware if possible. He does not want to use any Stainless hardware. He wants it to be as original as possible.

Thanks,

I don't mean to sound rude, but if that's the case, then why did he take out all of the rivets? There is no really good/easy way to make it look stock now. Sure powder coating is nice, but it sort of takes the original look away from a frame.
(I guess your past that point now, so.... moving on....)

I had to replace the front spring perch on one of my 4x4 frames. What I did (thanks to recommendations on this board) was to tap the holes using a 7/16 (pretty sure) tap, then use new 'grade 8' - 7/16 bolts, lock washers and nuts. This helps keep everything in line. A 3/8 bolt is slight smaller than 3/8" (the rivet size also) so you would have a little 'slop' using 3/8 hardware. [anyone please correct me where my sizes are off, its been a while]

[tcrist]

I personally was not aware that the whole frame was riveted together as I have never taken one apart. I do not believe that I would remove the rivets to powder coat the frame. Like was said, re-squaring the frame could be an issue.

He does own a machine and welding shop so he can make pretty much anything that he wants. I guess that if he wanted to he could make new rivets and install them if he kept one to pattern from.

I did talk to him this afternoon and we found that LMC carries a frame bolt kit that replaces all of the rivets.

Thanks for all of the advice.