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01-15-2004, 12:50 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Fairfield California
Posts: 59
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Replacing body panels and floor pans
Just staring the rust repair on my 70 swb 2wd pick-up any help is appreciated on the how too replace the flooor pans etc.........
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01-15-2004, 01:44 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Knightstown, in, usa
Posts: 2,525
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Do a lot of measuring (and writing the info down) before cuting anything. steve
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1970 long fleet, 355 4 speed, primer, walnut goodies |
01-15-2004, 11:23 AM | #3 |
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Posts: 4,002
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Don't use the entire panel, keep as much of the original metal as possible. When fitting the pieces, start by cutting the patches overly big then work your way down, don't try and trim it to the exact fit first time, do alot of test fitting. Leave about an 1/8 gap in between the 2 pieces of metal, join the 2 with weld. Dont butt the panels together. Try and stitch weld, don't run continous beads. When grinding, use a flap disc, they will make all the difference in the world. Also before you do any cutting(cutting wheels are the way to go) brace anything that needs bracing, if you are cutting out large areas of the floor tack a piece of metal between the door jambs and a couple pieces from the floor to the top of the door jamb, this will prevent the floor from falling out of alignment.
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01-15-2004, 12:48 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: gig harbor wa.
Posts: 57
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panel thickness
getting ready to buy panels myself.have heard replacement panel thickness can vary from 18 to 21 gage ,obviously thicker the better.nos too much for me. anyone out there have vendor / dealer recomendations?
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01-15-2004, 03:15 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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The tri plus ones seem to be the nicest I have found.
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01-15-2004, 09:22 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Browns Mills, NJ USA
Posts: 101
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6T727T2 |
01-15-2004, 10:07 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: rockford il.
Posts: 190
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who carrys tri plus
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01-16-2004, 09:31 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bonner Springs, KS
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I had heard that it is best to leave the cab mounted to the frme while replacing cab corners and floor panels. I guess that keeps the cab from flexing and getting out-o-shape. I am hoping to do all of these repairs to my truck over the next year-or so (I said that 5-years ago, too). I am thinking that after the sheet metal is replaced, would be the right time to remove the cab? Is that the right way to do it?
Terry |
01-19-2004, 12:19 AM | #9 |
http://public.fotki.com/street
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 169
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I am ready to do the same. Wouldnt it be best to put in new cab supports first. mine are rusted. What about GOODMARK panels, are they any good
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01-19-2004, 11:10 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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Our64, got see what they have at Walker auto parts on route 90, they have some patch panels there in two different brands and you can see a huge difference between them, not sure if they have any 60-66 stuff though.
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06-24-2004, 07:57 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 169
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Thanx GEE EM
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