01-18-2004, 03:49 AM | #1 |
Hammer On!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Olathe, KS
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Brakes
Well, my problem has been troubling me for some time. I guess it really took notice when i tore a hole in my rear brake line up towards the exhaust manifold, since then things haven't gotten any better. I've replaced the master cylinder about 2 years ago from the "zone" and this evening replaced the booster. My trouble is an extremely low pedal and when i go to bleed the brakes, nothing comes out for like 10 seconds and then slow starts to bleed. The end result is the guy operating the pedal has to help push it to the floor. Whats up with this??? Has anyone else run across this problem? Is it a master cylinder going bad? Or is this an air pocket somewhere affecting all four tires? I'm stumped. Any help is greatly appreciated
Aaron
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
01-18-2004, 03:52 AM | #2 |
Hammer On!
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Forgot to mention....shoes are in great shape, all the drums have plenty of meat left on them. Infact the front 2 i just replaced this past week. no wheel cylinders are leaking either.
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
01-18-2004, 03:54 AM | #3 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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A pedal going to the floor is usually a sign of a bad master cylinder, or air in the lines.
Are you leaking brake fluid? If there is a hole in the line, it will let air back in when you try to bleed them. I had a tiny hole once when i was bleeding brakes....happened when i didn't crank down a fitting hard enough. I tried for an hour to bleed them with no luck. Once i found the brake fluid leak and fixed the problem they bled correctly in 5 minutes. I would be pretty suspicious of that master cylinder though.
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01-18-2004, 09:58 AM | #4 |
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How are the rubber hoses? They can swell up inside and choke off the fluid. It does not happen often, but it does happen.
The fluid should quirt out when you are pressing on the pedal. Good luck! Jim |
01-18-2004, 11:33 AM | #5 |
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Jim, the rubber hoses are good. I checked those while bleeding for swelling and nothing there. The fluid does squirt out after you give it some motivation but according to my buddy he had to give it more than usual. I'm kind of wondering on the master cylinder myself. I've been told to take it to a shop and have it pressure bled. So im not sure where exactly to start out. New master cylinder or having it bled? Anyway, ill keep you guys posted
Aaron
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
01-18-2004, 11:39 AM | #6 |
Robert Olson Transport
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for $20-30 for a new master id tend to swap it out cause im betting its a bad master. dont forget to bench bleed it first
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01-18-2004, 12:28 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
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If you still have your recept, take he master back to Auto Zone and replace it. (Life time warranty right?)
Your drums may be out of adjustment too...but I kinda lean twards the hydraulic side for this problem. |
01-18-2004, 02:40 PM | #8 |
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Does the same reaction occur on all four wheel cylinders when you try to bleed them?
I'd flush the entire brake line system with new fluid as well.......
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01-21-2004, 01:06 AM | #9 |
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So heres the update on my current brake problem. I replaced the master cylinder and tried to bleed again. I get nothing for pressure Is there some way to "adjust" the pedal by chance? This seems to be such a simple concept yet i am having the most difficult problems. I have no leaks anywhere. Not on the master cylinder, the wheel cylinders or the lines. The shoes have more than plenty of meat on them. I think im ready to give up and let a mechanic shop do the fixing. Thanks for letting me get that off my chest
Aaron
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1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed |
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