Glue for soundproofing

[tbrown5079]

Ready to install soundproofing in the cab. What is the best glue ( holding power and easiest to work with). What did you guys use? Let me hear your story.
tbrown

[Donaldo]

What are you using as soundproofing ? Many products are application specific.

[tbrown5079]

Good thought Don. It's the shiney silver stuff that comes in a roll.

[Dan in Pasadena]

If it's the 6" wide stuff from Home Depot or Lowes its self adhesive. If it's the bubble wrap stuff with silver covering I'd use 3M spray adhesive. Every parts store carries it.

[OrrieG]

3M 77, mask everything, overspray does not come off easily.

[tmoble]

is there enough room to install the insulation above the headliner? It would be the stuff that looks like bubble wrap with tinfoil on one side. I'm concerned about the stuff living through Az summers. It's claimed you can fry eggs on the roof.

[Donaldo]

Whatever you use, the surface needs to be clean and smooth - on the overhead even an orange peel surface will have enough voids to allow the contact surface to release - then it's around your ears. On the cab roof I smoothed the surface using elastomeric mixed with microballoons let dry and gave it a good coating of brush on contact cement - let it dry and added the 50 mil G-mat, it isn't asphalt based and doesn't smell like tar inside the truck. It seems to stay put everywhere, even in 100'f. heat like today the roofing material stayed in place. Been up for 4 months without any release areas.

[47 Fasttoys]

Yes there is plenty of room. I used bubble stuff on my '46 and the jute mat stuff on my '47. Both work fine. Just let the glue tack up good before you press the pieces together.



Rob

[msaintg]

I just used regular 3M contact cement and used a 3" paint roller to apply it. I put 2 layers of insulation everywhere. worked great. I used more than 1.5 gallons of the stuff, so I would not recommend the spray on kind, it would get very expensive and does not hold as well as the regular stuff

[Donaldo]

"" I would not recommend the spray on kind, it would get very expensive and does not hold as well as the regular stuff ""

Definitely agree - inexpensive roller or a chip brush is what I use. Clean up is easy, just toss it in the trash.

[_Ogre]

i spray weldwood contact cement with an old paint spray gun and have heard the cheap harbor fright guns work well too
i've not cleaned or emptied the gun in 8 years, though last time i used it the gun wasn't putting out much glue
just be sure to plug the vent when storing the gun or the glue will dry out
if your going to glue a lot over a couple of years it's a lot less expensive to buy the gallons of contact cement
i buy weldwood from homedepot @ $30/gal = 32 aerosol cans assuming they have 4 oz per can, probably less

[tlorber]

Weldwood is definitely the way to go if you live in an area that ever gets hot. Most of the aerosol adhesives soften up with heat. In California, it is not legal to sell (which means it MUST work) so you have to buy it on the down low. However, if I wanted to walk down the street and buy pot, I'd have no problem!?

[tbrown5079]

Thanks for all the input guys. The contact cement with a rollor and/or brush looks like the way I'll go. It sure helps to use a tried and true method.
tbrown

[tmoble]

contact cement = coat both sides and let dry before sticking. make sure you can get it straight, there's no pulling it off and repositioning.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by tmoble

contact cement = coat both sides and let dry before sticking. make sure you can get it straight, there's no pulling it off and repositioning.

yes, yes and yes

let it dry to touch, just make sure the finger you touch with doesn't have dry contact cement on it
biggest problem is to make contact before all of the volatile solvents have evaporated
if you stick it together too soon the solvents get trapped in the glue and soften the glue

[tbrown5079]

Just glued the insulation under the dash ( what I thought would be the hardest place to get it right ) with Weldwood contact cement and it went very well. Painted it on with a brush, let it set for about 20 minutes and installed it in 4 pieces. I left a light on under the dash so it keeps it a little warm ( recommended to not go below 65 degrees for 72 hours ). Much better than the last cab I did with spray on glue.

[gag1025]

I am using Fat Mat. Much cheaper than Dynamat and is just as good.(Stay away from the Home depot and Lowe's stuff because it is asphalt based and when the sun bakes the car or truck it will soften and run. I also used Weldwood (Lowe's and Home depot have it) on the ceiling of the cab for extra holding power.

[PROB]

Has anyone did spray in bed liner for sound proofing? I thought about having the inside firewall, floor, behind the seat, and the roof, and bottom of the cab sprayed. Anyone have any experience with it?

[Donaldo]

Has anyone did spray in bed liner for sound proofing? I thought about having the inside firewall, floor, behind the seat, and the roof, and bottom of the cab sprayed. Anyone have any experience with it?

I've read of "lizard skin" a sound deadening spray on undercoating like product - it's pricey.

Someone on this list told me about using elastomeric roof coating and micro balloons - 50/50 mix is what I used with a cheap ebay undercoating gun - works great and is sandable and paintable, and affordable..

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by PROB

Has anyone did spray in bed liner for sound proofing? I thought about having the inside firewall, floor, behind the seat, and the roof, and bottom of the cab sprayed. Anyone have any experience with it?

i had rhino liner sprayed on the bottom of my cab, fenders, back of cab and inner fenders
it was more for under body rock protection and probably has some sound proofing to it

[gag1025]

Like Ogre I had spray on bed liner sprayed under the cab, inside the can floor area, under the fenders, and under the running boards. Underneath for added protection against rocks being thrown upward to help prevent dents.