modernizing a 67-72 suspension affordably

[Amoros]

would like to modernize a 67 c10 suspension affordably.
I can't seem to find any information out there that doesn't involve spending $1,000 - $5000 for a bolt in kit from some manufacturer.

For an example. If you watch the show. Gas Monkey Garage bolted in a modern cross-member from a crown vic on that green f100. My question is... Is there something similar to that for a c10? Front and rear. Have any links to posts or websites that could help me or anyone else?

this video shows a crown vic suspension on an f100 as an example

crown vic front suspension into 67 F100 3...

Thanks.

[special-K]

Not sure what you are wanting to do. They already have a modern suspension. These trucks have been known for their great ride since they were made. The a-arm design is relatively unchanged today. Ford screwed up when they came up with the Twin I Beam, but wouldn't admit it. It took them 30-40 years to finally ditch that folly.

[PanelDeland]

There are a bunch of write ups on swapping in a 73 up front crossmember or spindles for disc brakes. That is about as good as it gets affordably. There's nothing wrong with the rear. The best bang ride wise is probably new springs and shocks. Even swapping the crossmember is iffy unless you rebuild it or at least replace the bad components.

[mrlobster]

I'm having the same questions, but have nowhere near the $ or know-how to install a IFS front end. I'm going to replace the worn ball joints, etc., replace the springs, add some good shocks and a sway-bar kit. I'm sure it will be fine....and not $10000.

[Xeen]

If you want an inexpensive upgrade to the suspension you can respring it and add front and rear sway bars with Monroe sensa-trac shocks.

[leftybass209]

What's your definition of modern. As stated, these suspensions are fairly modern to begin with. If you look under any full size truck today you'll see the same general design. Now if you are talking about coil overs and 4 links, or some tubular design, you have to get comfortable with the idea of spending money. These trucks aren't cheap.

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by mrlobster

I'm having the same questions, but have nowhere near the $ or know-how to install a IFS front end. I'm going to replace the worn ball joints, etc., replace the springs, add some good shocks and a sway-bar kit. I'm sure it will be fine....and not $10000.

these trucks already have a IFS.

[beetle1960]

Originally Posted by Xeen

If you want an inexpensive upgrade to the suspension you can respring it and add front and rear sway bars with Monroe sensa-trac shocks.

Agreed...did this same set up on my 70, rides like a caddy. Just need to chit can the front drums for disks..

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Amoros

would like to modernize a 67 c10 suspension affordably.
I can't seem to find any information out there that doesn't involve spending $1,000 - $5000 for a bolt in kit from some manufacturer.

As you have already learned, the basic design of the front of a chevy truck has stayed pretty much the same from 67 on up to now. The major difference is suspension travel and increasing the control of the center of gravity of the truck as the body rolls. $1000 isn't much of a budget so your best increase in handling (assuming that's what you are looking for) is a set of drop springs front and rear and decent anti roll bars front and rear.
A set of drop springs for front and rear will go 228.00. A 1.25 inch front anti sway bar with bushings and brackets 168.00. The rear bar for a coil spring rear 130.00. That's half way to a thousand and you haven't started on brakes yet.

The alternative is truck on down to your local pick-a-part and take the entire front end from a 73-80 something chevy, begin replacing shocks, ball joints all of the bushings, brake pads, rotors and shocks. That's well over a grand and you haven't solved all of the compatibility problems you will find between power steering hoses, brake lines, steering geometry and a boatload of other things I don't want to think about.

Good luck, have a nice time with your truck.

[Amoros]

Thanks for the info. My reasoning is that I was planing to put an LS in it and was/am afraid the 68 suspension could not handle it. Well, at least the rear. Pretty sure the front would be ok. Then again, I had pro touring on the cheap on my mind.

[hugger6933]

Welcome to the site the rear is pretty much the same design they use in NASCAR today. Any time you hear the broadcasters talk of truck arms that is the rear suspension out of the chevy trucks. Those Redneck engineers knew [no offense to the rednecks [I am one]what they were doing when they took the chevy tail arm and adjustable shocks with good spring as far as handling. the quicker you learn that pro and cheap don't go together the less frustrating life will be. Jim

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Amoros

Thanks for the info. My reasoning is that I was planing to put an LS in it and was/am afraid the 68 suspension could not handle it. Well, at least the rear. Pretty sure the front would be ok. Then again, I had pro touring on the cheap on my mind.

If the rear suspension in a 67/68 won't handle an LS motor I guess I'm pretty much screwed. That's about 200 hp more than you'll get out of a stock LS motor.

[no1udknow]

From the fact that the OP only has 6 posts under his belt I'm gonna guess he's new to the board.... So WELCOME!

That said, these trucks do have some of the best suspension you cam find under an older car. There are many upgrades you can make that are affordable. The first and most important I feel is a disc brake upgrade. The 73-87 c10 front suspension is nearly identical to the suspension under our trucks, yet has upgraded bushings and ball joints, as well as disc brakes. I swapped an entire setup from an 85 under my 68. The cross member, shocks, a arms, disk brakes and calipers, and steering bars..... the whole shabang, and it nearly bolted right in. The only other necessary upgrades in my opinion will be an updated set of springs and a sway bar. Even with the stock 85 c10 springs up front, and the stock 68 coils in thw back, it still handles pretty well and I haven't lowered it.

[Hogshooter]

I think you can do the labor yourself and come close to the $1000 dollar mark. Only replace what has to be instead of the "everything has to be new" mentality move the lower a-arm shaft forward to increase positive caster this mod also helps center the tire in the wheel well. Spend months reading others builds and the FAQ section will help give you ideas.

['68 Newtricks]

Just to make a quick point. Coil springs were a thing of the past, then leaf springs took over. Then coil springs came back with 4 links in the SUV market. Now, the 2015 Dodge full size trucks have 4 link with coils. (I towed my blazer ~1800 miles with one, drove nice)

Soooo, my point, the rear trailing arm design was good. Just a PITA for gas tanks/spares/exhaust/etc. I can't wait to ditch my 2001 S10 for my 1968 C10

[68 Stepper]

This is how i would modernize if i had the cashhttp://m.summitracing.com/search/year/1968/make/chevrolet/model/c10-pickup?keyword=hotchkis%20tvs

[68 Stepper]

Sry, cant get my phone to post a hyperlink.

[Lattimer]

Lower it a little, add sway bars. Put poly bushings in the rear. New shocks. Work on getting a good alignment, not just "in spec" according to the '68 book. May require some grinding and other mods to get it right. If you lower enough do the shock relocators and the adjustable track bar.

I did this to mine and it handles way better than my ability to stay in the seat. No where close to pro touring, but I'm not putting it on a track anyways.

[PanelDeland]

I dropped mine 2 1/2 f 4 r and did the disc upgrade with a kit. It's a sixty eight so came with drums. It rides much better (it should the pass side front spring came out in 3 pieces) handles better and stops much better. Sway bar for the front is in the works. I haven't relocated the shock mounts yet, but it probably wouldn't hurt. One thing to keep in mind while you decide, is that the parts for the later model crossmember are cheaper and usually easier to find though all are available. I'm probably at $1000 in the disc kit, new springs, replacing Ball joints and adding the power booster and new MC. I got a sway bar for under $20 at the Pull a Part and need to spend $24 on brackets and another $20 or so on new bushings.

[Amoros]

yes, as you can tell, I'm new. I guess I don't know what I'm asking because didn't know what exactly to ask, but you guys are certainly answering what I wanted/needed.

[slowcpe]

Check out the "make it handle" thread. Very good read and should help answer your questions.

[Amoros]

my end goal is to put an ls engine in it.

[Amoros]

didn't realize how modern the suspension really was. Learning

[BIG ORANGE]

The best thing I've done to the 69 shop truck pictured in my avatar has been adding a 1 1/4 swaybar to the front and the 1" swaybar to the rear, handles like a corvette kinda like a protouring feel,,,

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

I dropped mine 2 1/2 f 4 r and did the disc upgrade with a kit. It's a sixty eight so came with drums. It rides much better (it should the pass side front spring came out in 3 pieces) handles better and stops much better. Sway bar for the front is in the works. I haven't relocated the shock mounts yet, but it probably wouldn't hurt. One thing to keep in mind while you decide, is that the parts for the later model crossmember are cheaper and usually easier to find though all are available. I'm probably at $1000 in the disc kit, new springs, replacing Ball joints and adding the power booster and new MC. I got a sway bar for under $20 at the Pull a Part and need to spend $24 on brackets and another $20 or so on new bushings.

like PanelDeland said, the square body cross member like I used (73-87) comes from a truck that was produced in the millions for 14 years and has been set up from everything from v6's and v8's big and small block. and the parts are so readily available it's not funny. Hell, where I live you can drive around and find them sitting in fields out on the farms by the dozens. You can pick up an entire donor truck for $100 and swap the entire brake system like I did and part out what you don't need or take the rest to the wrecker. The donor truck I got ran but wouldn't pass smog so it was given to me free of charge. It only had 79k miles on it. I gave the 305/700r4 drive train to a buddy along with the body/frame, and I got all the brake hardware. I found a used set of Early Classic brake discs to keep it 6 lug and voila!, disc brakes with a power booster, and newer style bushings. If you get a second, check out my build thread in my signature and you can see how easy and quick a swap is. It's literally about 20 bolts or less to swap the entire front suspension if you get it with the cross member.