Exhaust manifold vs. Headers

[Coach]

Anyone have any thoughts on which is better, the old ram style exhaust manifolds or headers. I need to replace the crappy full length headers on the truck now and will be pairing it with a 2.5 inch Magnaflow dual exhaust with X-pipe. The headers I was looking at are the Sanderson CC1-5/8" block huggers. My engine is a new Chevy crate 350/290hp - truck is a 67 C10 SWB Step side. Thanks for any help/input.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Coach

Anyone have any thoughts on which is better, the old ram style exhaust manifolds or headers. I need to replace the crappy full length headers on the truck now and will be pairing it with a 2.5 inch Magnaflow dual exhaust with X-pipe. The headers I was looking at are the Sanderson CC1-5/8" block huggers. My engine is a new Chevy crate 350/290hp - truck is a 67 C10 SWB Step side. Thanks for any help/input.

A good set of rams horns are hard to beat. They flow well, are quiet, and run a bit cooler than long tubes. Those Sandersons are good too, but they will have a 'bell' tone that rams horns won't.

[Coach]

Thanks for the info Fitz. What do you mean by "bell" tone? Also, any suggestions on where to buy the ram horns (LMC, Classic Industries, etc...)

[leddzepp]

Another vote for ram horns. I'm removing some long tube headers and going back myself.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Coach

Thanks for the info Fitz. What do you mean by "bell" tone? Also, any suggestions on where to buy the ram horns (LMC, Classic Industries, etc...)

Those headers will ring like a bell each time a cylinder fires. The Sanderson long tubes in my truck make a lot of noise and it isn't coming out of the tailpipe. If anyone made cast Iron Rams horn manifolds for a 572 I would use them! Cast Iron has much more mass and, because it is 'granular' it dampens that noise out.

They are available from Speedway motors, Summit racing, Jegs, Classic Industries and a boatload of others. Expect to pay about $110.00 each.

Do not buy from LMC. They are cast in China, not stress relieved and will crack soon after they get hot. I wouldn't buy a valve stem cap from those guys.

[oldertruckfan]

Cast is always better than headers, as most headers sold today are flimsy and don't take the heat that they're supposedly built for. just my .02

[landy]

Another vote for the stock cast iron manifolds. Seems like all the headers I've had leaked, made changing spark plugs a PITA, or caused over heating issues with the starter and solenoid.

I suspect performance gains are minimal for a relatively stock motor.

[kwmech]

Cast here as well, and you may consider a single 3'' out the back.

[swamp rat]

I just went back to cast manifolds after running the same headers for the last 20 years, i'm getting too old to have to climb around my truck just to do a plug change, literally 3 accessed from under the truck one accessed from the driver fenderwell with a long extension, the rest accesed from the top, not to mention i had to make a special wrench to tighten one of them as well.. Plus having to run shorty plugs.... unless your making high horse power about 500 then its really not necessary unless you want the header sound. Mine sounded like it had a lumpy cam before the manifolds, now its smothed out a little (its a mild RV type grind) but it still sounds nice!

[Coach]

You guys are awesome, thanks for all the input. Looks like ram horns for me!! I'll put up some photos after they get put on.

[benner]

Originally Posted by Coach

You guys are awesome, thanks for all the input. Looks like ram horns for me!! I'll put up some photos after they get put on.

Wow this is such a great site! I thought I'd pump up my 350 a bit and went for cheapest header I could find...They always leak and can never get them tight then they sound bad. Maybe I'll go back to stock or Rams too...

[jimbosprint]

I got both manifolds for $92 shipped on ebay. (LH, RH)

They're a little rough - part numbers are ground off kinda sloppy. At least they don't have smog holes to plug, and they look fairly nice after Calyx dresssing. Just installed, so I can't comment on the long-term quality.

[MARKDTN]

Another vote for ramhorns. Headers always seem to leak and make spark plug access difficult. Unless you are making SERIOUS power, they are not necessary.

[ElKotze]

I just switched from Ram Horns to Hooker Headers. No problems with leaking, but the sound with the Rams is definitely better. BUT: with the Headers my mpg's improved significantly ! Almost 2 mpg. Just something to consider...

[TonyJohnson]

There are threads on using the Dorman 2 1/2" dump Corvette style ram horns. That's what I'm running and they're great. Should be perfect for that system.

[beetle1960]

I run these from Speedway on my 70 with a mild 350...love them..got them off ebay for 199.00 a couple years ago..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tru-Ra...Iron,3823.html

I use this Stainless high temp paint frrom McMaster on all my exhaust painting, only one I have ever found that holds up. My Rams on the 70 are going on 3 years and look like the day I sprayed them...you do have to cook them, and I suggest you DO NOT DO IT IN YOUR WIFE'S OVEN...Ha ha.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7721t37/=uy89hn

[TonyJohnson]

Read this one...:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...89#post3148989

[Rod Run]

Originally Posted by benner

Wow this is such a great site! I thought I'd pump up my 350 a bit and went for cheapest header I could find...They always leak and can never get them tight then they sound bad. Maybe I'll go back to stock or Rams too...

Cheap is never cheap and that's where you went wrong.

If you spent the money on a quality header at first, you wouldn't have to be worrying about spending more money on manifolds now and you would have had less labor AND less headaches too.

As much as I say and live by that, here's something to think about...........

The USA's space program takes our astronauts thousands of miles into space and that is done with vehicles built by the lowest bidder. Makes you wonder about things huh?