65 C10 bed and instrument questions

[nelson-ohio]

I have finally started to do some work on the 65 C10. From some previous posts, i believe mine is a C10 cab with a C20 frame.

I managed to get a front axel with disc break from a 85 C20, it's sitting under the frame now, need to drill the 2 holes and elongate 2 to make it fit.

Anyways, now I'm looking at the bed frame, not sure how the supports should go, wonder if anyone can give me a few pointers.

The questions I have are:
- I'm not sure how the middle support beam goes, I don't see any holes to mount the beam. See the picture showing the beam right above the wheel
- The space between the beams before and after this beam above the wheel seems large, it can't be right, can it? Anyone know what the spacing should be between these beams? Maybe I'm missing a beam? Should there be some holes on the frame to mount these beams?
- the level of the first beam, closest to the cab is about 1/8" lower, is this correct? Maybe it for the thickness of the front bed box?

Another thing:
I'm trying to remove the instrument cluster, I plan on putting a digital 1 in. However, I'm having difficulty removing the cluster, all the screws I can see are removed, but something on the bottom seems to be holding it in, I can not take it out. I'm guessing it's the key and knobs things, but not sure how to remove them without damages. Feels like there is something on the back side holding them in place, didn't want to force them. anyone can point me to any video links or posts?

Thanks.

[pimpston65]

take all the controls out first i.e the wiper switch, headlight switch, etc. should pull right out!!!

[pimpston65]

the middle cross sill kinda lays there, there shoul be a rubber pad that goes under it thou, 7 sills in total, just make sure all the mounting holes lineup and the through holes match to the cross sill...

[Captainfab]

There is no difference between a C10 cab and a C20 cab. The C20's and up did have a different rear cab mount than what is on yours. I can't tell from the pic if the rear cab mount bracket is riveted or bolted to the frame. Most often the rear leaf springs were indicative of a GMC. However the Chevy's could be ordered with rear leafs. Does the VIN on the frame match the VIN on the cab? that will tell you if the cab has been changed.

It looks like you have the bed cross sills correctly laid out, except for the short one above the differential. I believe that one should move forward to the front edge of the wheel well. And yes you do need to remove all of the switches and controls from the instrument cluster bezel.

[jonzcustomshop]

not all of them bolt down, some just rest, these are pics of my 65.
you can see the skinny one the 4th brace in pics 3, and 4, it is just bolted to the bed wood, does not even touch the frame.

[nelson-ohio]

Thanks for the info on the cross sills.

Any pic or video on how to remove the switches and controls? I didn't want to force them in anyway. Do I need to remove screws or bolts from behind?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

Any pic or video on how to remove the switches and controls? I didn't want to force them in anyway. Do I need to remove screws or bolts from behind?

I don't have any pics or video, but here's a description of how to remove them:

Headlight switch: Pull the knob all the way out to the "headlights on" position. Reach up under the dash and push the shaft retainer button. It's a small spring-loaded button located on the side of the switch opposite of the wiring plug. While holding that button, you should be able to finish pulling the knob/rod the rest of the way out. Sometimes they catch and you have to wiggle the knob a bit and/or push it back in a little before pulling it out again. Once the knob/shaft is removed, use a large flat blade screwdriver or other suitable tool that fits the slot to unscrew the bezel/nut assembly from the switch.

Wiper switch: Use a small screwdriver to loosen the little set screw that's located near the base of the knob. The knob should then pull straight off the switch. There are special tools made for unscrewing the bezel/nut retainer, but I've found that a pair of needle nose pliers will work if you're careful. Just open the pliers wide enough to clear the switch shaft and stick the tips straight into the slots. Hold the tips of the pliers firmly into the slots while using them as a spanner wrench to unscrew the bezel/nut from the switch.

Ignition switch: With the key in the lock position, insert a stiff piece of wire (like a straightened out paperclip) into the small hole in the face of the lock cylinder. Push in on the wire while turning the key counterclockwise. That should release the lock cylinder, allowing you to pull it straight out of the switch. Again, there is a special tool made for removing the bezel nut. But as long as it's not on there too tight you can often remove them by hand ... one of those rubber jar opener pads can help to get a better grip on it without damaging the chrome finish.

From the pic you posted earlier, it appears as though you don't have a choke cable or cigarette lighter to remove. But for anyone else reading this, removing the choke cable is similar to the wiper switch. The only difference is that the knob unscrews instead of being held in place by a set screw. And the cigarette lighter has an inner & outer shell that screw together ... hold the inner part from rotating while you reach up under the dash and unscrew the outer shell.

[DPowers]

There will also be a small tube attached by a nut on the back of the oil pressure gauge that will have to be removed.

[pimpston65]

you can always use a plasma cutter to cut the cluster out, but that would wreck everything. so dont do that!!!

[nelson-ohio]

Got it. Thanks guys, once you know the trick, it took only 15 minutes.

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

Got it. Thanks guys, once you know the trick, it took only 15 minutes.

guess you didnt wanna use the plasma cutter, i tore up a few cluster before i figured it out... it gets frustrating on a pick and its cold and u cant see anything holding it on, til u look underneath and see it hanging up...

[nelson-ohio]

no plasma cutter, maybe someone can use this cluster still.

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by nelson-ohio

no plasma cutter, maybe someone can use this cluster still.

the price you make off it will cover the cost of membership fersure and have something left over...

[nelson-ohio]

Cool, I got a bunch of things I need to sell or trade. I need a driver side bed box and fender. I will be signing up for the member ship soon.