questions about the 3/5 drop I just did....

[no1udknow]

So, yesterday I installed 5" cpp drop springs on the back of the thrasher, and I cut 2 coils out of the front (temporary till I can afford drop springs).

First question, why do I need an adjustable panhard bar? I took rigorous measurements yesterday with the stock panhard bar installed, and my axle is maybe 1/8" off of center and I imagine that has nothing to do with the panhard,

secondly, the panhard is nearly parallel to the axle which means it is almost at the apex of it's throw, so at that angle, the axle should experience the least bit of side to side movement. The panhard is not angled upwards as suggested by many threads and distributors notes I read.

The rear shocks are currently still mounted in front of the axle and I am making mounts to change the angle, but I was looking at the stock lower mounts and I was wondering, why couln't I turn them around swap them and mount the shocks behind the axle? wouldn't this give the shocks more leverage on the trailing arms? then I could simply build upper mounts and set the shock angle I want.

on to the front....

When I cut my springs and re installed them, they were basically loose in the control arms until I put pressure on the suspension. I was worried they would either jump out of the seat, or move around in there if too much load came off the tires (not that I plan to jump the truck, but stranger things have happened) so I put them under load, made sure they were seated top and bottom, and then tack welded the spring to the lower arm in a few spots so if the weight came off, like I jacked up the truck or something, they would line back up when they sat back down. does anyone else have an alternative solution for this problem?

Thanks in advance

[no1udknow]

nobody?? (crickets)

[Lattimer]

If your axle is centered (or close enough) after the drop, you don't need an adjustable bar. Something must be off on your truck, because my axle was off almost 5/8" with a 3" drop. I did go to the super track bar to get the longer bar, which causes less axle movement due to the longer arc. But if you don't need it, keep what you got!

Swapping the shocks like you are talking would work fine, IMHO. Some of the aftermarket setups do pretty much what you are describing.

Tack welding the springs is not good. Adding heat changes the properties of the steel and you lose hardness. Its not something I would risk. I could see making a retaining strap of some sort to keep the springs centered when you jack the truck up. I'd want it to bolt in, both for future spring removal and to avoid any compromise to the spring. Mine are only 2" drop springs, so they don't get loose even at full droop, but I can see where anything shorter could be an issue.

[Greasey Harley]

DISCLAIMER:
This is secondhand information, it is now yours, to do with as you see fit.

I was told, the rule of thumb is:
If you have to C notch, you should change your panhard and flip your trailing arm mounts.
If you don't need a notch, you can probably leave it alone.

The dude that told me this, seemed like he knew what he was talking about, and claimed to have dropped several of these trucks. I believe him ...but, then again, I've been fooled before too.

P.S. You welded your springs? Seriously?
Don't do that.

[Boog]

Your front springs should stay in place unless you put the truck on a lift or something unusual. Welding on them isn't advised.
As far as your rear shocks go look up Andy4639 member and his build. He installed an aftermarket shock relocating kit that moves the rear shocks behind the axle. Mounts them more vertical and they are probably more effective too.

[kda2000]

Lots of these topics covered here if you search through the forum for topics on "springs" and "drops". But a couple of comments.
1) The heat from welding will remove the temper from the spring and change its spring rate.
2) The rule of thumb I have heard is: 2" per coil removed, and more than one coil makes the front end geometries bad, so that you can't get a good alignment. More than 2" from springs alone results are bad tire wear, and bad handling/steering feel.
3) if you want more than two inches in the front, a combination of springs (up to 2") and dropped spindles is the way to go.
4) up to 4" in the rear works without the need for a C-notch. Beyond that there is not enough travel for the rear end for normal roads and loads. If more than 3" you should trim the rubber bumpers 1" to give a little more travel before you bottom, but still protect the frame and axle from contacting each other.
5) It's real easy have the panhard "move" the frame as you lower the jack with the new lowered springs in place, the rear end should be centered in the frame at its new height. Measure the frame-to-backing plate distance on each side, it should be the same (within an 1/8"), if not, you need to move/adjust the panhard bar so it is.

But everyone has their favorite exceptions to the general guidelines, and you can do/run any changes you like, some will result in better/worse, ride, handling, tire wear and mechanical problems -- Just be safe, we don't like to hear about accidents. Good luck, Ken

[no1udknow]

Thanks for the input. I must have read about 15-20 different threads before I decided to drop my truck. Most of them stated it was 1.5" per coil, and unloaded the 2 coils I cut off only measured 3" in height, so I imagine it was a little less than that afyer loaded. As for the welding, I wouldn't even say it was a bead, it litterally is a few spot welds. I know all about heat and spring temper and did not want to weld enough to heat the springs. It was mostly at the tip of the coil and it was because I use the lift at work to work on my truck and the springs would not stay in place so I could put it on the ground. I would have needed 2 guys to hold the springs in place and 1 guy to operate the lift. Instead I put a tall work stand under the a arm and lowered the weight onto it till I got the spring situated, then with it compressed in the right place, I tacked it so when I removed the stand it would stay in place and go back in once I lowered the truck to the ground. I imagine once I drove it home, the spot welds probably broke.

[no1udknow]

My next thing will be correcting the camber. I used to do alignments manybyears ago so I am going to look at how much adjustment I have on the upper arms, if it is not enough I will look at moving my u bolts and lower pivots inward as I have done before.

[no1udknow]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

If your axle is centered (or close enough) after the drop, you don't need an adjustable bar. Something must be off on your truck, because my axle was off almost 5/8" with a 3" drop. I did go to the super track bar to get the longer bar, which causes less axle movement due to the longer arc. But if you don't need it, keep what you got!

Swapping the shocks like you are talking would work fine, IMHO. Some of the aftermarket setups do pretty much what you are describing..

I measured the entire length of the axle from backing plate to backing plate and divided by 2 to find my center line. Then I found the center line between my frame and used a piece of round bar to hang a plum bob , and it was really close, no where near a 1/2 inch. I still have the adjustable panhard and if I start to notice anything then I will install it. I drove the truck home (40 miles) and it never bottomed once, even over the train tracks. But I assume their will eventually be some spring sag as they wear in.