Another way to skin the cat; the High Torque 292 LS swap

[rgonza]

Nice work!!!

[First c10]

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

[Beetle]

Originally Posted by First c10

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

He answered this already

Originally Posted by dayj1

The 4.8 in my '72 is running a bone stock tune except that the rear o2s, evap, and vats are disabled. It runs and acts just like the 4.8 in my daily driver 2012 Silverado.

[First c10]

And That my friends is what happens when you post from your smart phone!!!

[GASoline71]

Very awesome build and swap! Great fab work!

I have been thinking about drinkin' some of the LS Kool-Aid as of late... threads like this make that decision a little easier.

Gary

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Ozzy2013

Awesome job !

Originally Posted by rgonza

Nice work!!!

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Very awesome build and swap! Great fab work!

Thanks for the compliments.

Originally Posted by dec010974

What injectors did you use with the holley fuel rails 534-219? thanks for the info.

I used the stock injectors for the 4.8 from the 2003 Tahoe. They are the small Multec injectors that flow something like 24 lbs/hr.

Using the stock injectors meant modifying the Holley fuel rail brackets (I think I put some pics of the brackets on the first page of this thread), but there were three reasons for the choice as I had LS1 injectors on hand.

1) The tune didn't have to be modified for different injectors.

2) The stock injectors were black. Seriously, the name of the game here is to make the engine look correct for the time period. The LS1 injectors are gray and I thought they'd stand out more than the black ones

3) The truck injectors are shorter than the car injectors which keeps the rail low enough that the DBW electrical connector cleared the rail. Had I used the LS1 injectors, it would have been impossible to plug in the throttle body.

Originally Posted by First c10

Looks great. Did you do anything to the motor or is it stock? I am putting a 4.8 in my sons truck. I did put a cam and valves springs.

It's completely stock. My tuner is the one who convinced me to go ahead and try running the MAF directly on the throttle body. He said it would work fine with the stock components (and it did). He mentioned in passing that it would likely be problematic if I went to an aggressive cam. I'm not sure why, but I only assumed that a lopey cam would fool with the intake air enough that the MAF readings would be inconsistent given its location.

[Low Elco]

Awesome job and great fab work!!

[BB72CHEVKT]

Top notch work!

[dayj1]

I've put just over 600 miles on the 4.8 swap so far. Or at least I think I have since my odometer quit working at about 400 miles . Other than that, there have been zero problems and I'm getting about 17 MPG with my 3.08 gears (or at least I was before the odometer stopped)

Today I had a chance to fix a couple of minor annoyances. First, the fresh air side of the PCV hose (in the passenger's valve cover) was just unsightly to me. There were enough unknowns when I built this that I didn't know exactly how I wanted to handle the PCV system. I had initially planned on running an air cleaner with a snorkel, and the present PCV location would have been perfect with a very short hose. Second, is that the same PCV hole in the valve cover doubles as my oil fill. The problem is that there is a sheet metal baffle inside that makes pouring in 6 quarts of oil rather "fun".

So, without further delay, I started with this:



This is a good photo of the valve cover adapter while the cover was off:



It didn't take much to grind the baffle loose:



Then I drilled the end of the valve cover and installed an AN6 90* bulkhead. Note that no baffle is needed because this is the inlet side of the PCV system where air is entering the engine. So, there is no concern about oil being sucked out of this hole:



On the inside, you can see the sealing washer and also that I cross drilled the nut and fitting for a cotter pin so the nut would never back off inside the valve cover:



I used a 3/8 JIC swivel hose end in the PCV hose as it will thread onto the bulkhead:



And, finally, here it is all buttoned back up. The PCV hose now goes unnoticed and the oil filler actually works!

[C10LSX]

Originally Posted by dayj1

I went to the local Parker hose store and had them make up a flexible high pressure hose for the power steering about 20" long. Then I bent up and flared the ends to match the metric steering pump and standard box.

Here are the parts:

Awesome build man, what sizes are you're threads on the power steering pump and the pressure and return lines on your box? I've looked all over but I cant seem to find the sizes, and I'll be taking a trip to the store. thanks in advance! GREAT job on the swap

[ERASER5]

This is so cool.

[Lokin4AReason]

I like this concept =0)

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by C10LSX

Awesome build man, what sizes are you're threads on the power steering pump and the pressure and return lines on your box? I've looked all over but I cant seem to find the sizes, and I'll be taking a trip to the store. thanks in advance! GREAT job on the swap

The pump has a 16 mm male o-ring fitting which is 16mm x 1.5 thread. The steering box has a 3/8 inverted flare return line (5/8 x 18 threads on the nut) and a 7/16 inverted flare pressure fitting (11/16 x 18 threads on the nut). The hose that I had made at the Parker hose store just has male 3/8 JIC connections on it (which is the same as -6 AN). The hard line is connected to the hose with 3/8 tube nuts and sleeves.

[solidaxel]

That is the BEST looking "292" I have seen
Can I get a close up of the coil location brackets installed?

[mongocanfly]

Nice way to "skin that cat"
Beetle..on the steam ports my engine guy said I didn't need them so I cut off all the tubing and welded up the banjo ends and bolted em back to the heads.if you look at his post #11 in the last pic you can see the tube going across the front of the intake and into the water pump.my 6.0 didn't plumb into the pump it went to the radiator and not having a fitting there I chose to block it off.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

That is the BEST looking "292" I have seen
Can I get a close up of the coil location brackets installed?

Thanks! It's tough to get a good picture of the coils with them behind the heads. One thing that I noticed is that the photos make it look more crowded than it really is. There's plenty of clearance around the coil packs to the firewall.

The first pic with the camera right next to the brake booster:



And the same group of coil packs from a little closer:



And the passenger's side from about the top of the trans dipstick:

[solidaxel]

Thanks, got it
You have WAY more clearance than we have in that location, but I do like your idea (Many) of grouping 4 together

Did you machine the valve cover adapters or are they a product of the later sbc center bolt adapters?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Did you machine the valve cover adapters or are they a product of the later sbc center bolt adapters?

The valve cover adapters are from a company called ICT Billet. I bought them on eBay and they seem to work well (no leaks so far). They are purpose built to put SBC valve covers on an LS head. They have an o-ring grove machined in the bottom to accept the factory LS valve cover gasket. My only complaint is that they didn't come with any hardware.

[aggie91]

Very nice job. Love the old school look you gave the new engine!

[pocketpool]

Killer motor man !!

How tall is this setup compared to the truck intake and cover? Like to the top of mass air?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by pocketpool

Killer motor man !!

How tall is this setup compared to the truck intake and cover? Like to the top of mass air?

Thanks! From the top of the valley cover to the top of my air cleaner is 13-1/4 inches. The 4.8 in my 2012 Silverado measures 12-1/2 from the top of the valley cover to the top of the engine cover. So, my setup is slightly taller than stock, but it would be possible to make a shorter air cleaner if you need that extra 3/4".

[pocketpool]

Originally Posted by dayj1

Thanks! From the top of the valley cover to the top of my air cleaner is 13-1/4 inches. The 4.8 in my 2012 Silverado measures 12-1/2 from the top of the valley cover to the top of the engine cover. So, my setup is slightly taller than stock, but it would be possible to make a shorter air cleaner if you need that extra 3/4".

Cool, thanks man. Would love to go this route if I have room. My truck is z'd and my hood will not shut with the intake cover . I'll do some measuring

[lt155ruck]

[QUOTE=dayj1;7147162]

I've had this taking up room in my shop for the last year or so waiting on the right vehicle to come along for a swap:



It's the "littlest" LS; a 4.8. Since 4.8L converts to 292.9 cubic inches, I decided to round down and call this a 292 swap

The 4.8 came from a 79K mile 2003 Tahoe. I bought it over a year ago and slowly gathered parts. It's got a mish-mash of truck and Camaro parts for the accessory drive and a LS1 'vette intake

Very cool build! Can you explain the mish mash of truck and Camaro parts of the Acc drive? Maybe what is from what or part numbers? Or what you did to make it work? the water pump looks like the l99 part number 19207665? Thanks in advance

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by lt155ruck

Very cool build! Can you explain the mish mash of truck and Camaro parts of the Acc drive? Maybe what is from what or part numbers? Or what you did to make it work? the water pump looks like the l99 part number 19207665? Thanks in advance

Thanks!

I had actually written all that up for a guy on the trifive board (notice my '57 BelAir behind the completed engine in the last pic). So, I cut and pasted from my post over there...

Originally Posted by dayj1

Here's what I did along with the exact cost, part numbers, and vendors. I did sell my truck parts to recoup some of my money, but I didn't play any magazine tricks where I had high dollar parts stashed under the workbench.

$125 shipped for 'vette LS1 intake and fuel rail (online purchase on Corvette Forum).
$50 LS1 fuel injectors (local purchase on Craigslist).
$27.65 shipped for EV1 harness pigtails part #PT113 (RockAuto).
$26.97 shipped for 10 intake bolts (eBay).

Total cost for LS1 Intake --> $229.62

$123.32 shipped for 2010 Camaro L99 water pump part number 19207665 (Amazon)
$51.82 shipped for 1998 Corvette LS1 Tensioner part number 89049312 (Amazon)
$86.25 shipped for 2010 Camaro P/S pump part number 92229662 (Amazon)
$25 for 1998 S10 Blazer alternator (4.3 engine) (local purchase at LKQ salvage yard)
$3.50 for miscellaneous bolts for brackets (local purchase at LKQ salvage yard)
$7.50 for M10 x 1.5 x 150mm studs for alternator bracket (local purchase at Fastenal
$47.71 shipped for 2010 Camaro P/S pump pulley part number 12610794 and P/S bracket part number 12610792 (GM dealer)
$45.40 shipped for 1998 Camaro alternator bracket part number 12563327 (eBay)
$17.50 shipped for rear alternator bracket part number 12556915 (eBay)
$15.31 Idler (part #89052) (Advance)

Total for all belt driven accessories and brackets --> $423.31


I sold the following items:

-$30 for truck water pump and truck tensioner (local Craigslist)
-$80 for truck P/S bracket and pump and bolts (local Craigslist)
-$40 for truck alternator (local Craigslist)
-$77.39 after fees for truck flex fuel injectors (eBay)
-$27.65 after fees for truck fuel rails (eBay)
-$47.08 after fees for truck intake (eBay)

Total truck parts sold -$302.12

Grand total for everything --> $229.62 + $423.31 - $302.12 = $350.81

L99 water pump and power steering pump bracket:



P/S pump and pulley installed:




Studs for alternator (the upper one must be drilled/tapped on an iron block):



Alternator brackets:



Close-up of spacers:



Finished product:

[lt155ruck]

Wow, thanks for that..that's even more comprehensive than I expected. That's awesome. Lol but you did forget to mention what belt you used... What are the details on your 57?