twistedchevy's 70 burb

[twistedchevy]

05/23/15

I bought a 1970 k10 burb for the running gear to make my 72 a 4wd.

Here is the craigslist ad


Here is the craigslisr description:
Selling a project 1970 Chevy suburban K20. This is a project truck, does not run and is not put together. Needs motor. There is a 307 sitting in it but not bolted in.307 does run just needs to be finished put together(cap, rotor, plugs, wires, hoses etc..). does need a new exhaust manifold. Truck has 3-30gallon gas tanks(1 main and 2 saddle tanks). truck was a daily driver until the 350 that was in it ended up with a cracked block. 4wheel drive works. Truck does need work on the inside. And could use some body work. When she did run, per the previous owner, never had a problem with her in the 9 years he owned it. had issues with the main gas tank at one time but just switched to one of the saddle tanks.The truck does not have a complete interior. The back windows were removed by the previous owner and he but in sheet metal. The rivets can be removed and glass can be put in. Need it gone, cash talks!

This a super hard truck to find, 4x4 are in demand and very hard to find.

Please only serious buyers, you will have to tow or haul it.

And some pic








The body is in pretty bad shape, my plans are to swap bodies. I'm a little sad that it is actually a k10 and not a k20 like posted but I'll manage until I can upgrade, which hopefully will be soon to get rid of the drum brake front end.

[twistedchevy]

05/25/15

Yesterday I bolted the engine to the bell housing, bolt the torque converter to the flex plate, engine to the engine stands, replace the broken spark plugs, installed the dist cap, installed the oil psi line, installed the starter, made a temp starter wire, ground wire, dist power wire and a starter signal wire, hooked up a couple of vacuum hoses, the throttle linkage, turned the engine over by hand felt like good compression, tried the starter it worked and hooked up some of the janky fuel lines to the driver saddle tank that had gas.

Today I but spark plug wires on it, sprayed some brake clean down the carb and fired her up while spraying brake clean down the carb until the fuel pump got gas out of the tank up to the carb.

The motor needs a temp sensor, its missing from the head, alternator and brackets, fan and pulley to be bolted on, radiator hoses, water and carb tuning to run for long periods of time but IT RUNS. And the oil psi gauge works. Was reading a little over middle.

[twistedchevy]

06/09/15
Went to DMV and even though it was never registered in can it only cost me $136 to put it in my name and get new plates.

So I had decided to keep it.

I am still going through with my original plan to make my 72 4wd, so I plan to do a body swap and make this a 2wd.

Then from their I eventually want to bag it and put a good stereo in it and take it to some car shows as an old burb/rod.
For this build the 2 builds that gave me ideas were these:
Mulk's 8-lugger
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=403690
Project patina burb
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=454571

[twistedchevy]

Here is my 2 burbs next to my dads burb

[twistedchevy]

So I decided since I have no money to spend on the burb I decided to paint it since I already have paint. I originally wanted to do a fake patina on my 72 but I've grown to like the paint on it, so I decide to do it on this





Then took a gallon of black paint and painted it on with a brush




So now its all black but next time I'm in the mood I will sand areas down to give it the faux patina.

[twistedchevy]

No pictures but over the last couple of months I've been slowly working on the burb.
-pulled the engine bay wiring harness apart and redid it the way I wanted to clean it all up
- removed the short water pump for a long one to be able to run the power steering
- got a beat up 68 3hole gauge cluster and mounted some 1½" oi, temp and volt gauges in it
- rewired the gauge cluster plug to work with the other cluster
- fixed my broken turn signal switch

Then I found out the 3 30gal tanks are what appears to be a dealer install
- in the driver rear quarter panel is a metal box and behind the original factory paint is the fuel lines for the tanks

I am now in the process of removing the wood floor to make it easier to trace the fuel lines and figure how everything works and runs through the frame.

[LockDoc]

Sounds like you have been busy.

A helper is always good.... (in your previous post)..

LockDoc

[twistedchevy]

Finally got all the rusted carriage he'd bolts drilled out an the floor removed Dec 23. And found the gas lines were a nightmare. This is just a glimpse

So today by passed all the old fuel lines from the front seat back. At one point someone installed a 3 valve switch but nothing was hooked up to. So I remounted it to a better spot. Then hooked all 3 tanks to it. I still have to check for leaks on the rear tank and find a fuel neck for the passenger saddle tank but I'm happy. I should be able to drive it to work soon

[twistedchevy]

01/02/16
Put a plug in the bottom of the rear tank, added 10gals to the driver saddle tank that already had 8gal, and added 25gals to the rear tank. Both tanks could have taken more but the 35gals costed me $100. So I stopped.

01/10/16
Got a fuel neck and door for the Burb

Today I installed the fuel neck and door in the driver side for the saddle tank, I didn't like the fuel neck hanging above the rear tire.

Cut the hole


One of the previous owners decided to fill the rested hole with expanding foam then bondo over it, will have to address that another day. Just didn't want it catching on fire while welding


Panel set in place


Starting to tac in place, you can also see the 1/4" of bondo


All welded in place and ground down, have a couple of pin holes but I can throw a small coat of bondo over it when I feel like it


Outside painted


Inside, had to cut a hole in the inner panel and the floor brace


Where it connects to the tank



Now I need to find another fuel door and pipe for the passenger side, figured I should do the fuel necks before I put the floor in.

Also since my original plans were to cut up what ever 4x4 Burb I have to eventually make a crew cab I plan on keeping this Burb 4x4 since the whole back half is rusted out.

[LockDoc]

-
Good job! You will have to start robbing banks to fill all of those tanks...

LockDoc

[twistedchevy]

2/6
Got a pass side fuel door and neck

2/13
Welded the pass fuel door in
Only one pic this time



Only problem is the only pass door I could find was a square one, I've grown to like th square one more then the round and it doesn't bother me that I have a square on one side and a round one on the other side

2/14
Got 2 sheets of tongue and groove plywood and cut them to fit



Around the driver fuel neck



Around the pass fuel neck



2/15
Primed the bottom of the plywood



2/16
Painted the bottom of the wood with an oil based street paint

[Average Joe]

Nice work! Im envious of your fuel capacity.
When I tow, I average 7-8 mpg. With a 21 gallon tank, im constantly on the lookout for accesible stations.

[twistedchevy]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

Nice work! Im envious of your fuel capacity.
When I tow, I average 7-8 mpg. With a 21 gallon tank, im constantly on the lookout for accesible stations.

Haha, thanks. This one has a total capacity of 90gal and my 72 has the 50gal tank

[twistedchevy]

Not to much going on, with multiple vehicles that you want to modify you kinda have to pick, choose and wait for enough funds.
but
I have mark lV 454 that will eventually go in this, but no time soon.

However, I did buy an old 6" lift for this, all springs. Along with that I have some 35s that came off my toyota and I have an awesome brake upgrade for toyota he dana 44 front axle toyota heat will let me use 2006 hummer h3 12.4" rotors and 4 piston cailpers. O yea, I won't have any problems stopping.


O, I also installed a second battery and a voltage sensing relay to connect the 2.

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by twistedchevy

When you used the OSB, what length did you use? I haven't measured my floor to know whether it is longer than an 8 foot sheet

[twistedchevy]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

When you used the OSB, what length did you use? I haven't measured my floor to know whether it is longer than an 8 foot sheet

The stock Burb floor is under 6ft long

[twistedchevy]

Put a 6" lift and some 35's on



The rear is a little low so for now I'm going to put a block in the rear to make it match the front

[twistedchevy]

Been a while since I updated this

Installed an ORD shackle flip, now the front is 2" lower. I have their b52 swap kit but haven't done it yet.

Aslo bought an 02 tahoe and took the drivetrain out and I stalled in the burb

Now the burb has the 02 5.3l and 4l60e mates to a NP208 with a modified adapter to run an electric vehicle speed sensor.

Truck drivers great. I have a bunch to still do. The swap was rushed and half done, I have the whole harness half a$$ installed no obd2 plug or half my gauges. I bought a lokar shifter cable and installed it backwards oops.
So now park is 1st and 1st is park. It still has the factory 3.07 rear gears. I have an 02 tahoe rear end that has 3.73s (match the front) and disc brakes that I want to Install.

I wasnt planning on driving it so much, over 1000 miles, but we sold the wife's van for a project car for her so she has my 72 c20 and I have been driving this when I need to go somewhere