New member with a 1960

[The1960APE]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

you probably have an HO32, not a very friendly rear IMO, just because they only come in like two ratios and parts arent easy to find. I would pull the axles and have them filled/redrilled for 5 lug. probably around $100-150.

I did read about the 2 ratios' I defiantly hope it isn't a 3:90

[61ChevyPanel]

I broke both axles in my original rear end after I got my V8 and nitrous. You may consider upgrading the rear if you're going to run a strong V8. I swapped in a '64 truck 12 bolt posi. Correct width but did have to weld brackets to mount it. I think a new high-performance 5 lug axle axle conversion kit for the 12 bolt is about $300.

[The1960APE]

I found a 1964 12 bolt tat I purchased today, hopefully it will arrive in the next few days!
Drop spindles ordered! I'm going to turn down the bars some and then order rear drop springs and blocks, I am assuming a 2-3" drop spring and 2" blocks!
Is anyone running the American Racing VN327 wheels? I would love to see some pictures!

[61ChevyPanel]

Here's the '64 12 bolt installed in my '61. Haven't done anything to lower the rear yet but it's gonna happen.

Here's the wheel & tire thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=379110

[The1960APE]

Good morning all!

I am making some slow progress and have a lot of questions!
So far I picked up some Curly Ambrosia Maple wood for the bed, I went and towed home a 2002 Chevy 3500 with the LQ4 6.0 and 4L80E transmission, I removed the broken windshield etc!

Questions for those of you who are much more experienced in the truck world than I am...
1) I saw a power window conversion where the original window crank was used as the up/down control... where can I find this? or is it a mix match of parts?

2) best place to find 6.0 conversion parts such as motor mounts, headers etc?

3) what are you guys using for a power steering conversion?

[The1960APE]

I have a couple of questions for you guys, In the first picture you see the braces for the bed floor, the middle two were just laying there loose after I removed the wood, I cannot find any signs of where they might have been bolted or welded in place, I assume I am missing something?
In the second picture you will see the gas tank mounts, how do I remove those? do they need to be cut out?

[forestb]

With the bed rails you are not missing anything. It does not bolt to the frame. It bolts to the L shaped rails on the inside of the bed and to the wood. I think they are there for structural integrity and so that there is a adequate amount of bolts holding the strips down. On my truck I think there is eaven a row of bolts that don't even have a mettle cross brace just some large washers holding the wood down. I am not entirely sure on the gas tank mounts. I think part of them has to be ground off. I remember another member talking about them heating up when removing them and damaging his paint on the outside of the cab.

[The1960APE]

A little Update:
The 12 bolt arrived, I am completely rebuilding it with a locker and 3:42 ring/pinion
I ordered 3" lowering springs and 2" blocks for the rear, the adjustable bar for the rear end, 2-1/2 drop spindles for the front, 5 on 5 disc brake conversion for the front and rear and the power steering conversion.
The 6.0 has an appointment with a local builder that does phenomenal work, we are considering running the LQ4 with L92 heads and a factory LSA supercharger!
Any advice is greatly appreciated!

[The1960APE]

Update....
Bed is off, frame cleaned and sanded, POR 15 time, new 12 bolt is about finished, the lowering springs/blocks are here, the drop spindles are here, the new rear mount fuel tank with EFI conversion is here....I've gotta start getting this thing together! Should I start a build thread or keep it all in here? I am still trying to find reasonably priced 16" smoothies and white walls!

[Northwest Outlaw]

you should get Detroit Steel Wheels...because reasons.
Keep up the work and post pics when you can of the rear end, we all like rear end pics

[The1960APE]

I went to the Grand run this weekend looking for vendors, Daves was there, I was really impressed with their selection, They had a sign on their booth stating 10% off all items sold at the sale, then a young fellow approached me and said on top of the 10% off it was also no tax (which I have a NC tax ID) Sounded good to me, so I told him I needed, SS polished bed strip kit, SS bed bolt set, both rockers, both door bottoms, both chrome bumpers, bumper bolt kits, both cab corners, both lower door skins, and lower fender skins, was also contemplating buying all of the weather strip and window rubber, so we gather some parts and he see's my debit card and says "Ohh no, we cant do that" I asked what? he says "we cant give you a discount or no tax if you pay with a card" I politely replied "your signs doesn't say that nor did you tell me that" he said that's the way is it........ Ohh well, I was pretty disappointed that they didn't seem to care much about an order that size, and they are here in NC close to home, I thought I had found a vendor to stick with for my entire build....... Any suggestions as far as a good vendor to use?

I did pick up a new bed front due to my original being rusted out at the bottom, I am trying to match the original patina, here is a frame shot also!

[The1960APE]

I am making some SLOW progress, I did order 16x8 Wheel Vint. Smoothies with the police cap, The rear end is just about finished, I am about to shoot clear on the new bed front, The LQ4 is just about to be removed from the donor, I found a Magnuson TVS1900 supercharger to spice things up a bit.
seeing that I am doing a 5 inch drop in the rear will the pinion angle need to be changed?

[The Rocknrod]

Probably, always good to check. You probably have a dial angle finder. Tremec has a smart phone app if you have a smart phone.

[The1960APE]

I have most of the front end apart, cleaning, sandblasting and painting, I bought new cross shafts for the A-Arms, a front end rebuild kit, to go along with the drop spindles, wheels are here and tires are mounted, I ended up going with the Wheel Vint. steel smoothies 16x8 and General Grabber UHP 255/65/16's
I have a question for you guys.. I have not removed the lower A-Arms yet, do i need to remove the entire torsion bar or can it be removed from the A-Arm once the A-arm is loose?

[forestb]

I would take the torsion bars out with the A-Arms. Take all the torsion off of them by taking out the adjustment bolts. Are the cross shafts for the lower A-Arms also? I know that it is vary hard to remove the torsion bars from the A-Arm. I think there is a thread on here somewhere on peoples ideas on how to do it. You will have to do an advanced search. Make sure that you take a lot of photos to make sure when you put the torsion bars back into the A-Arms they are at the right angle.

[The1960APE]

A few pictures of my Junk!

[Northwest Outlaw]

Love the constant progress, good job. I'm doing the front drop spindles and disc conversion as well, parts just came in yesterday, and would love to see pics of your process with the control arms and torsion bar. Thanks in advance

[The1960APE]

[doobiebro]

Looking good!

[61_FL_Apache]

Way to get with it!! Nice progress!!

subscribed!!

[ls60apache]

looks like you are making great progress. keep it up , it inspires me..heres a pic of my l92 head 6.0

[The1960APE]

Originally Posted by doobiebro

Looking good!

Thank you sir! I love the truck in your Sig pic!

[The1960APE]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

Way to get with it!! Nice progress!!

subscribed!!

I felt like we were making SLOW progress LOL, But I am working on a 65 Olds 442 Also, and that has been a long project... well long because I like to get one about finished and start over to make improvements, and again, and again....LOL

[The1960APE]

Originally Posted by ls60apache

looks like you are making great progress. keep it up , it inspires me..heres a pic of my l92 head 6.0

I really debated picking up the L92 heads and a recall CTS-V supercharger, Keep in mind I have not did diligent research but just a quick comparison of cost of buying all the components, rockers, injectors timing chain, valve job, head work (minor) etc I felt like I could pick up a truck blower and probably an entire Trick Flow or Texas speed top end kit for close to the same cost.....With that being said I am at a real deciding point....rework the 317 heads, roller rockers, cam, liters, timing chain... or Top end kit, I dont really need the power but at the end of the day there wont be much difference in cost from what I can figure? hmmmmmm

[The1960APE]

Here are some pics of the bed wood progress...Keep in mind I have not installed the new (old looking) Bed front.
The wood is a Curly, ambrosia, wormy maple! I have the same issue as pictured on both sides, in the mid section (Tire Area) of the bed it measures about 49-1/2 wide, at the front and rear of the bed it is right at 50 which leads me to the assumption that the center needs to go outwards, is this correct? I see no way to bring the front and back inwards, I was thinking of building a jig and using a bottle jack to push the center area outwards and brace it out until the bed floor is installed. What do you guys suggest?
In the pictures we have not started the finish process. I was considering this
1)Walnut stain diluted with 25% denatured alcohol apply, lightly sand, apply, lighty sand, repeat steps 3-4 times
2) After the last coat wipe even with denatured alcohol for an even finish
3) After fully fry apply a coat of boiled linseed oil
4) after fully dry apply several coats 7-10 of clear gloss poly wet sanding between each coat, let cure for two weeks for full hardening
5) Wet sand final coat 500G, 800G, 1000G, 1500G, 2000G, 3000G then a 2-3 step buffing process!

Suggestions? I have done a method similar on a restoration of a 1950 Brunswick pool table that turnes out like a sheet of glass over the wood, but I did not use the boiled Linseed oil process.