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02-21-2004, 09:42 AM | #1 |
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Dreaded rivet removal Please help me
I did a search and found some info. but... I just wanted to double check. What is the best way to remove these things?
Do you have to grind the heads off first? What have you guys used to do this? All I have is a cheap a$$ angle grinder... Do you think that'll take care of it? Would I then be able to punch out the rivet or will I need to drill it out? Thanks.
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02-21-2004, 10:09 AM | #2 |
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Yes I think that would do it If you have a hole punch that would difidently work
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02-21-2004, 11:08 AM | #3 |
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Are you talking about frame rivets? If so, what i do is grind a little off the head, just enough to get it flat. Then centerpunch, then use avery good drill bit just a bit smaller than the hole the rivet is in (you'll have to guess, since you can't see). Drill just enough to get it through the frame, then punch it out. The head on the top just pops off, and you don't have grinding marks oun the frame.
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02-21-2004, 12:15 PM | #4 |
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I have removed some by drilling the center out, then used a metal chisel and hammer to knock the head off.
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02-21-2004, 12:51 PM | #5 |
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I usually use an air chisel, but I have taken a lot of rivets off with a big hammer and chisel.
Jim |
02-21-2004, 01:26 PM | #6 |
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I got smart and went out and bought an air chisel. One of the best tools I own. I use the flat wide chisel to remove the head of the rivet and then once I'm done with that I use my big round punch attachment and just push the rivet through the hole. Takes only a minute or two per rivet. Just remember to wear safety glasses, a lot of crud will come loose and fall into your eyes with that quick vibrating action on the frame. Even on the cleanest of trucks!
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02-21-2004, 01:32 PM | #7 |
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A cheap a55 grinder will work (my $14 grinder did). Grinding wheel marks can be painted, but if you're careful, you won't hit the frame. Sometimes when you punch them out, the frame parts will shift and bind a little, just be patient.
good luck, scott
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02-21-2004, 02:17 PM | #8 |
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I am knocking rivets out right now too. My question is what size and grade of bolts should I use to replace the rivets?
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02-21-2004, 09:11 PM | #9 |
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3/8" bolts will drop right in but I drilled mine out to 7/16" and used fine thread bolts. They are not very common but I figured you might as well put the biggest bolt you can get in for the extra strength.
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02-21-2004, 09:18 PM | #10 |
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I didn't get around to trying it today. So the fun will have to wait until tomorrow.
Jaycom, Good question. So what size hardware have you guys replaced your rivets with? Thanks everyone.
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Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes. |
02-21-2004, 10:20 PM | #11 |
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I use grade (5) 3/8-16 bolts to replace the rivets.
Jim |
02-21-2004, 10:24 PM | #12 |
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Air hammer with "sharp" chisel works best and is by far the easiest method. You will need to keep sharpening the chisel. Get a pointed chisel too so you can drive the rivets out after cutting the heads off. The rivets are fairly soft and cut easily with a sharp chisel and a good quality air hammer. I chiseled off all the rivets off one frame to get the entire rear leaf set up off and all the rivets off a frame to get the trailing bar set up removed so they could be switched. It went real smooth. Oh yeah, wear hearing protecting, gloves and eye protection. I use grade 8 bolts but grade 5 works fine too. 3/8" diameter is adequate. The grade 8 and grade 5 fasteners are both harder than the stock rivets. Do not use any bolts without proper grade 5 or 8 head markings. Without the head markings the bolts are typically a grade 2 and very weak which is an invitation to disaster. The real key is locking the nuts in place so they don't back off. To do this use lockwashers or self locking nuts; even Permatex thread locker is a good idea.
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02-22-2004, 12:44 AM | #13 |
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I removed my rivets with the drill method like mentioned earler. But i drilled my holes out to 11mm witch measures .433 , and used gr8 hardware 7/16-20 which measures .431 so i could get the tightest tolerance like a real rivet. I also used flat washers on either side and red thread locker. Torqued them down to about 35-40 ft.lbs. and never had one squeek or come loose.
Have fun!! I removed over 60 rivets when i sandblasted my frame. Randy
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03-22-2004, 03:33 AM | #14 |
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a suggestion.....bolt head up maybe????
however...im sure if a bolt does come out, its gonna snap before the nut comes loose...just suggestion.
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