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#1 |
Registered User
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Location: Mogadore
Posts: 100
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Stainless Brake lines
Going to attack the brakes today on ol treebeard... The old ones are literally 2 foot pieces rust welded to the frame...lol... Looking at stainless brake line... Seems like the way to go as far as longevity goes... Anyone work with it before? How does it bend? Flare? Cut? Am i going to end up trashing my brake tools?I've seen the "pre formed" sets..but the snow comes fast, and I hope to drive this thing home before thanksgiving...
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#2 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
I order pre-formed from Inline Tube. They ship fast and the pieces fit perfect. Not sure at the moment if they offer stainless or if that's what I got. But, the originals weren't stainless and they last. Use DOT5 and the steel will last linger yet
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Lancaster, OH
Posts: 81
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
I ordered preformed stainless from "the right stuff" Stainless looks nicer and will last longer but the metal is a lot harder. That affects any tweaking of the lines and getting them to seal in the fittings. I would do it again.
Do not try to make your own lines out of stainless unless you have the pricey hydraulic tube flarer. If you want stainless get the kit. Since I converted to disc front in my 70 I got the 71-72 lines and the front to rear is different. I had to chop some off and the cheap flarer will not bend the stainless. I had to take it to a factory that makes lines and they put it into one of their CNC machines to give me a flare again...
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![]() 70 GMC K2500 82 GMC K3500 09 GMC 2500HD 4x4 |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: LI, NY 11801
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
listening in for information. I ordered stainless lines for my front disc conversion, and hope to learn a little before I jump into it.
Bill
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1970 C10 8' Fleetside, L6 250, 3 on the Tree. The most basic of pickup trucks! |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Lancaster, OH
Posts: 81
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Just remember with stainless you need to torque down the fittings then back them off and repeat to get the flares to seat nice. Then one final crank down with a flare nut wrench. Also, I have the extended ORD stainless soft lines on both the 70 and 82 and absolutely love them.
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![]() 70 GMC K2500 82 GMC K3500 09 GMC 2500HD 4x4 |
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#6 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
What's a "stainless soft line" ? Different grade of stainless easier to work with? Or are they referring to finish? Like matte or low gloss?
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#7 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Never mind.... Blonde moment..... Just saw "soft stainless" and got excited...lol....
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#8 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Pricing kits I realized that I have a lot of upgrades to do before committing to stainless... Gotta keep an eye on the finished product... Stainless lines to powerless brakes would soon be on the parts board... Lol... Just going to do it in steel to get er in the garage, then do the stainless when everything else is in place... But.... If anyone has any insight to the original question...id still love to hear it... Still leaning towards making my own as I seldom agree with GM engineers...even if they're right....
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#9 |
The Older Generation
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
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I used the newer NICOPP brake lines (nickel+Copper+Iron) on three of my projects. Really easy to bend and they will not rust. CNC 325 is 3/16" and CNC 425 is 1/4". I bought mine on e-Bay: Here is the description: NiCopp® is a nickel-copper alloy brake tubing that meets SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038, meeting all international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing. This alloy is approximately 9.2% nickel, 1.4% iron, 0.8% manganese, and 88.6% copper. Under the UNS system, this alloy is designated as UNS C70600. NiCopp® therefore has the strength and structural integrity of steel lines, but with the added benefit of being much more corrosion resistant. NiCopp® is also easier to bend and form than steel tubing. Nickel-copper, commonly referred to as '90-10 copper', has been used on several European vehicle brake systems since the 1970's, including: Volvo, Audi, Porsche, and Aston Martin. NiCopp® has been used on hydraulic/fluid transfer systems on vehicles where steel lines and tubing are commonly used. This includes brake, fuel and transmission systems. NiCopp® is considered the super-premium brand in brake lines and should be considered where the underbody of the vehicle is subjected to the harshest environments, where the longest life-span for lines is required, and/or where direct OEM replacement is desired. • NiCopp® Does Not Rust or Corrode • DOT Approved for Hydraulic Brake Systems • Bends 58% Easier than Steel Tubing • Finished Lines Available for Domestic & Import • Black Oxide Fittings 2X Corrosion Resistance NiCopp® lines and tubing meet the following specifications: SAEJ1047 ISO 4038 SAEJ1650 DIN 74234 BS2871 Best price I could find at the time was on eBay. You can actually coil it around a 1" wooden dowel by hand without kinking it. It also flares easy with a regular double flaring tool and there are coated flare nuts available. It comes in all sizes if you look on e-Bay. Some of the auto parts stores carry it but it is quite a bit more $. There are look-alikes out there but I can't vouch for the quality of them. I have always used the NiCopp brand. LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - Last edited by LockDoc; 06-06-2021 at 09:39 PM. |
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#10 |
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Location: Sandown, NH
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
I have always bent my own SS lines. Bending is no problem, if you make a wrong bend trying to correct it isn't easy. Cutting is no problem. Flaring is the hard part, even with some of the soft SS. A good hydrolic flaring tool makes it much easier. Some times the SS will split when flared. If I have SS that's splitting I found annealing it helps. Heat the end to be flared with a torch just enough until it starts to turn blue ( Not Red ) then flare it.
There is also copper-nickel that I've heard is much easier to work with, but I have never used it. Hope this helps some ! Gary
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Gary 72 SWB 4x4 My 72 SWB Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=259859 |
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#11 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Not a blonde moment. He said "line" when he should have said "hose".
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#12 |
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Location: Mogadore
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
That copper line looks like a good alternative to the expense of stainless. What do you use for attachment to the frame or axle? Are there any issues using dissimilar metals with copper? Or perhaps that is what the nickel is for? Or must you resort to plastic? I've seen galvanized eat right through copper sheet, and run into issues on still coils threaded into iron couplers...
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
I used the NiCopp tubing on mine as well. Very easy to use and flare.
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
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#14 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Copper is very sensitive to mixed metals. It is also very soft causing it to fatigue easily
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#15 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
I guess I should have said "NiCopp" . looking over the alloy data at lunch here and it seems they've made a "stainless" copper.... Almost exactly the same [additives] as stainless steel. It's missing the biggest part (chromium) but with copper being much less corrosive than iron they probably didn't need it.... Says its pulling the same numbers in stress tests as soft steel... Wish I liked the color... Lol.... Something about that bright white of stainless...
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The ol man's 1968 c10 fleetside 327 bone stock w/ 2bbl 503 light green 2 tone |
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#16 | |
The Older Generation
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Quote:
I just used the lined metal tubing clamps. Not sure if they have a plastic or vinyl covering on them. LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 1,937
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
x2 on stainless being difficult to work with and needing heavy duty tooling. I am now a big fan of the nickle/copper alloy tubing. And yes the alloy metals greatly change the metal's properties as opposed to pure copper.
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North East PA
Posts: 682
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Nico copper is the way to go , but remember Stainless is flared with the old style 45 degree flaring tool and the nico needs to be flared with the 37degree flaring tool ( the type that is a rolled like flare .
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 777
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
This is what I got to flare stainless. It was money well spent and in some ways, make flaring stainless lines easier than flaring normal lines the traditional way
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?fee=7&fep=2834?fee=5&fep=4990&SRCCODE=1SE1528&creative=10255941587&device=c&matchtype={Mat chType}
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#20 | |
The Older Generation
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Quote:
I have flared all of my NiCopp lines with my 40 year old double flaring tool with no problems. That stuff is soft enough that it will conform to whatever fitting you are using when it is tightened up..... What do you mean "rolled like a flare"? LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#21 |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Just noticed that my last link didn't work. Hopefully this one does
http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...core&view=grid
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#22 | |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
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#23 | |
The Older Generation
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
Quote:
Just make sure that your flaring tool will do double flares. All brake lines need to be double flared.... LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#24 | |
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Re: Stainless Brake lines
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