Thinking about another truck and need some opinions...

[joeydurango]

...and we all know what they say about opinions - everybody's got one.

I had to sell my truck some months ago. Was bummed but needed the cash. Things are better now and I'm thinking about getting another K10, but more stock/original than the last one (which was LS-swapped and lifted). Found one and have been talking with the seller, and I have a few questions for the board. See attached photos for reference. A little info first:

-'72 K10 Cheyenne Super longbed, 350/350.
-Sounds like it's pretty much original, with no known rebuilds of anything, no known repaint beyond touch-ups, etc.
-Everything pretty much works, no major known issues.
-Odometer reads 41k, although it's probably 141k.
-From the photos, I can tell it needs cab mounts.
-Needs tires, no spare, surface rust here and there, small oil leaks - little things.
-Things that make me concerned: The drip rail has been completely filled in with Bondo; The AC compressor is beginning to make noise; there's occasionally drips of coolant inside the cab; and when cold, it takes a moment to engage in reverse.

Given all that, my questions are:
-If the drip rail's been Bondo-ed for years and there's no bubbling or obvious rust, is that probably okay?
-Is it possible to buy a shorter v-belt and simply bypass the AC compressor altogether?
-That in-cab coolant leak could be anything from a loose connection to a bad heater core. Is the heater core swap as bad as I've always heard?
-I am clueless when it comes to transmissions. Is the slow-to-engage-reverse a sign of a necessary impending rebuild, or could it be a simple linkage adjustment?

And finally, most importantly: What do you figure it's realistically worth? I've got my idea, but I want to hear yours...

[Clavo106]

imo I would pay 5k max.. the only thing that concerns me is the bondo on he drip rail?

[beerformeplz]

Id say 6-7k. What did you get for your last one with the LS swap?

[LockDoc]

-
Are you sure the material in the drip rail is bondo or could it be sealant. Any problems inside above the windshield?

Yes you can by-pass the A/C compressor.

Coolant inside the cab would more than likely be the heater core. The A/C cores aren't too bad. You should be able to get to it from inside the cab.

Can't help on the trans.

LockDoc

[toolboxchev]

Look for wear on the brake pedal. The ones with 150k you will see the edge from wear from where ones shoe would transition from the gas pedal.

Look for other signs of obvious wear and hidden areas like up under the dash.

[Sklptrljay]

I'm looking at these pictures on my phone, so it's not the biggest image, but it looks like I see a drip rail over the door. Like Lock doc said, it's probably just the sealant your seeing over the top of the drip rail.

Around my area that truck would fetch good money. People are asking ridiculous $$$$ for 4wd's. I'd say it's worth $8-9,000 in my area.

[toolboxchev]

Are you trying to sell it to us or looking for Mechanical Advice?

The heater core job is about an afternoon doing it right. Transmission issue serious detracts from my standpoint, upwards of 2 k for a high end quality rebuild with lifetime warranty. (if you can get that on a trans)

Figure the heater core at about 60 bucks and 90 an hour for labor. If you know a mechanic that could do it in an hour there is you cost.

Now the obvious look under the rig, take the wheels off inspect the front end, bearings, rear axle, brakes, all the fluids (watch for signs of flush and fills )

That trans fluid should be reddish brown at this point if its bright red I would highly suspect that flush and fill trick.

[Grumpy old man]

Looks pretty clean from the pictures

If I was buying it I'd want it for $5-6,000 private

If I was selling it I'd be at $12,000. on ebay

[engineer_gregh]

I don't have a dog in this hunt but I've been watching that truck on eBay. I'll take 10 K10 Cheyenne Super's in that condition today for $5-6K, money is here send me your pictures! I don't think its worth what the owner is asking but its way north of a $10K in my area. Now my opinions on your questions.

-If the drip rail's been Bondo-ed for years and there's no bubbling or obvious rust, is that probably okay? I didn't see any Bondo in the rails but its tough to know with the pictures from eBay.
-Is it possible to buy a shorter v-belt and simply bypass the AC compressor altogether? You could just take the belt off the A/C.
-That in-cab coolant leak could be anything from a loose connection to a bad heater core. Is the heater core swap as bad as I've always heard? No more than $200-$300 by a mechanic.
-I am clueless when it comes to transmissions. Is the slow-to-engage-reverse a sign of a necessary impending rebuild, or could it be a simple linkage adjustment? When buying a used vehicle I always plan for the worse so I would say that you're looking at a rebuild, if not then it would be a pleasant surprise after purchase.

[68350]

I'm going to guess and say it's sealant in the drip rail

The a/c has its own belt, so you can just take it off

Heater core is most likely the issue, can be done in a few hours with some patience

The transmission may be low on fluid, or ? Does it shift fine other than slow into reverse when cold?


I've seen this truck on eBay, I think the price is a bit out there, but definitely a 10k plus truck. It looks very nice

[joeydurango]

Thanks to all for the replies. Sounds like all the potential issues have answers that I already told myself, I just wanted to hear from people perhaps more experienced than I am with these trucks. Long story short: More cash always needed once the purchase is complete.

As to price: I see the seller's relisted this morning for a third run on eBay at a higher price than before, now at $30k minimum, with (not surprisingly) no bids. I knew the truck wasn't worth anywhere near the $25k asking price before. I was surprised to see some of you throwing out the $5-6k range; I figure closer to $8-10k makes sense, but that's why I asked, to get opinions. I'll talk with the seller again and see what happens...

[beerformeplz]

Buy low, sell high. Thats the American way!

[67ChevyRedneck]

For his asking price, I would expect a truck that I could drive across the country and be able to eat off of the motor/frame.

You just can't ask 25K for a truck with leaking heater cores, non functional A/C, and questionable transmissions... I mean... Come on, man!

[joeydurango]

I know, I'm with you on that one. Don't worry, I'm working on that part of it... We'll see.

[engineer_gregh]

Here is another one to check out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-C-...m=221960784869

[joeydurango]

That one is super nice and probably worth a lot closer to the asking price... but I don't have anywhere close to that asking price to spend.

[joeydurango]

Well, talked to the seller for the final time today and he refuses to budge below $25k - which is about double what I think the truck is worth.

141k on a 350/350/NP205 - they'll all need a rebuild. Needs a heater core, and will need an AC compressor. Needs tires and could probably use diff rebuilds. I just do not see where the $25k figure is coming from. Like 67ChevyRedneck said, I can buy a fully-restored, go anywhere truck for $25k, if I had that kind of cash!

Oh well, I'll keep looking... if anyone sees anything up my alley, let me know...

[engineer_gregh]

Sorry you didn't come to a deal on the truck. I agree, mechanically it will need attention. Its not until you've rebuilt one of these trucks that you start to realize just how expensive it can be. I think you would be hard pressed to buy a fully restored K-10 go anywhere truck for $25K, but hey if you're patient and search hard enough its possible. Check out my build thread and you will see how much I've spent on my truck, and its not fully restored.

[joeydurango]

Yep, I understand how expensive rebuilding can be - and unfortunately, since I had to sell mine, I understand how much money one can lose once the rebuild is done...

As for restored, go-anywhere trucks at a reasonable price, I've also been lurking on this one. But I'd rather have it a little more original. Nice truck though: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5311403840.html

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by 67chevyredneck

for his asking price, i would expect a truck that i could drive across the country and be able to eat off of the motor/frame.

You just can't ask 25k for a truck with leaking heater cores, non functional a/c, and questionable transmissions... I mean... Come on, man!

x2

[Grumpy old man]

25K ...I'll build you 2 for that . Big difference between building one yourself and paying someone to build one for you .

[joeydurango]

2 for $25k? Well shoot Grumpy, how about you build me one for $12,500?

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

25K ...I'll build you 2 for that . Big difference between building one yourself and paying someone to build one for you .

Correction : I'll build "myself" 2 maybe 3 for that kind of money ,But if I charged myself labor or had to pay someone to do any aspect of it that would be a whole different story .

[jocko]

Was watching the super the op shared. Nice truck, even with the mech issues. Fully agree it should be a fully functional resto at 25-30k. But 6k for a real Cheyenne Super K10 in a not so common color with no rust and a few mech flaws? Never. 12-15k is fair for this truck. Maybe even a little more if it's REALLY what you want, but that would just mean it's worth it to the buyer. Nice truck. Not 30k nice, but very nice. Odd - have never seen a vehicle relisted at a higher price.... Good luck with that.

[joeydurango]

Hey Jocko, yeah, 6k seemed way low to me. I offered him 12k but he wouldn't even negotiate with that as a starter. Claimed nothing below 20k would satisfy. Fair enough - it's his truck... I'll keep looking.