Help with Rear Patch Panel Fleetside 66

[msg]

Originally Posted by MP&C

Your weld dots don't look bad at all, how are they on the back side?

Heres a shot of the back side of the panel. Not great, but hopefully good enough.



Since there are more areas that needed to get repaired I havent yet painted the repairs yet, I figured patch as much as possible and then mix up the epoxy primer. So I tried to repair spots in the top portion of the rear of the panel that were eaten up with rust. The attempt I made to just cut a spot out failed when I couldnt get behind that area well to planish. So I cut out the whole stretch and hope that I can take left over scrap thats long enough and cut to fit.






So while Im cleaning out that area the best I can and neutralize the rust with Ospho, I moved on to try repairing some holes from a repair someone else had done as well as plug the lower blinker hole that someone added.





I have been using the tack planish grind and sand method and I hope to get it going smoother. Took me about 8 hours to get this much done today

[MP&C]

Back sides of weld dots look pretty good as well, overlap process described earlier will help to eliminate some of voids shown..

[msg]

I'm having some trouble with the cut out section I thought to replace. First I had cut out a section at the top of the curved portion that was riddled with holes. Then I took the cut piece and found that the curve matched to a pvc pipe I have. So I took a scrap piece and hammered it to be a close match.



The next step was checking the edge of the cut line to see if it was still level, but along the base line of the cut there is a dropped area.



Is there a best way to correct the drop and raise this area to be flush? Has this area possibly shrunk when the cutting wheel was used?

[MP&C]

I don't think the area is shrunk. Check the other side of the bed and see if there isn't a slight bit of crown along that area. IMO now that you've cut out the top edge of that panel, there is nothing to support the crown so it's now sagging. (subject to verification)





Looking at this pic, the yellow arrows point to the vertical seams that will be subject to shrinking and the formation of "valleys". On the top set of yellow arrows, only a few more inches and you can fold a flange and spot weld it per the factory method. This will eliminate one of the vertical butt welds, and much of the shrinking issues. A longer piece of PVC pipe and you can form a longer patch to eliminate these problem areas.

On the red arrows, does a flange sit under the upper section and get plug/spot welded here as well? If so, making the panel as I suggested will eliminate much of the shrinking issues other than one long horizontal weld.. Which I would suggest using a TIG or O/A torch to tack in place first and then a non-stop weld to limit the shrinking effects.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by msg

Anyone have any tips on how to handle this?
My 66 has been needing the passenger side repaired and I ended up buying a patch panel and a few things threw me.

The top flange of the patch panel where it meets the seam, I cant figure on how to start the cuts. The patch panel has a little extra flange/lip that I didnt know if its supposed to be cut off? Or am I supposed to tuck it under the seam somehow?

Also the panel is longer than I realized, and rustier straight out of the box
I am not sure if I can use this panel or not.



I think maybe I should cut just the section I need to make the repair, so I took some pics of where the panel is distorted.





All that mess on the distorted area was me trying all kinds of things to get the panel straightened out. Stud welder and slide hammer. Heat shrink disc. In the end there was so much oil canning and rusted holes that I figured get a patch panel and redo it. Now I cant figure on what the best approach.

Any help is appreciated.

This answers none of your question; but looking at your pictures, was this patch panel supposed to be new?
Sam

[msg]

Originally Posted by MP&C

On the red arrows, does a flange sit under the upper section and get plug/spot welded here as well?

Yes so I bought a 30 inch brake at HF to get a bend to get the flange/tab to spot weld. I had to drill out the holes for the spot weld on the other side of the panel with a right angle grinder with a drill bit since the clearance was so tight. Thanks a lot for the input Robert!

Originally Posted by luvbowties

This answers none of your question; but looking at your pictures, was this patch panel supposed to be new?
Sam

Yeah Sam it surprised me, came out of the box from classic parts just like that with the rust. Had to get the Ospho out and get all the rust off. Also learned just how sharp the edges were when it cut through my 7 mil nitrile glove as I was cleaning the rust and sliced my finger.

[msg]

This panel has taken a while but Im almost done with it. Just need to bend and spot weld the edge that faces the cab. I might just leave that end loose until I get the truck back together and hang it first to fit.

The upper portion that I used the PVC pipe to form took the longest since that furthest area is not easy to get behind to planish. What a pain, but here it is.



Then I took the (now shorter) patch panel and cut to fit. Measured many times before I got the snips out.



Then I commenced to the method of spot weld, planish, grind, sand many times over



and finally got this



Then fixed broken spot welds on the braces



Then there was an area on the base of the tail light portion of the panel that was rusted through kinda bad so I cut it out, took a scrap piece, got the snips, cut a rough size, then pounded it to match as best I could, then tacked it in and finished it up.



Then there was an area that someone in the past screwed in some holes to pull a dent out, so I prepped it and welded it back flush



Also, a note on the patch panel. Its not at tall on the edges as the original, so I had to get the snips and taper it so it doesnt step up like this.



All for now, hopefully the other bed panel wont be so bad.