62 w/ 74 crossmember issues, Alignment/steering MARKEB?

[DakotaKid]

I just got my 62 back from the alignment shop, and they told me they couldent align it due to the fact that the Distance between the center point of the Pitman arm and the Centerpoint of the idler arm does not match the center link.

Anyone else have this problem? It is supposedly 3/4" wider than it is supposed to be. I did my install exactly as Markeb did his, and im not sure how i could fix it?

I am using a CPP powersteering mount, and it all looks good, the centerlink travels well, looks parallel....

Im really stumped here.

Just looking for any insight.

Thanks!

Aaron

[markeb01]

Did you keep the original 62 steering linkage or did you swap over to the later 74 idler arm and center bar?

[notsolo]

More information please. Photo's if possible. Is the truck lowered?

[DakotaKid]

Truck is lowered. 2.5 cpp dropped spindles and 2" springs. All the 74 steering linkage

[DakotaKid]

is the 60-62 steering linkage CtC dimension for the pitman arm and idler am Different than the 74? I used the 74 Idler arm also,

Just wondering where my discrepencies are, I did everything with Patterns, im not sure how it could be this far off, And I have never read anything on here with anyone having alignment issues. I know the Idler and Pitman Arm need to travel in the same arc and that's the problem with them being farther apart.

Could I just lengthen the Center link? Not too sure about cutting up the steering pieces. Although I don't think it should be a problem with a Forged piece.

I cant really move the steering box, but I could recess the mount for the idler arm into the frame the 3/4" that I would need.

Im not sure how to progress with this. Any input is appreciated.

[notsolo]

On my 62 whole cross member hub to hub was changed to 83 gear, including prop valve and booster. 74 stuff should be the same.. Nothing lowered on mine , this was 20 + years ago. never had it aligned, it was very close. Drives strait and true .. It may be the components lowering may have changed it....... 83 CENTER LINK outside holes 30" CTC...inside holes....23 3/4 CTC

[DakotaKid]

lowering it had nothing to do with the CtC dimension of the centerlink. that is completely irrevelant with the problem here. the steering box and the idler arm mount don't change with lowering it.

I gotta figure out how and why these are different.

im at work and I gotta get out and get some pics and measurements.

Thanks for the dimensions Notsolo, I will compare those. it helps!

[ls60apache]

seems like you need to find another alignment shop. only adjustment I can think of they couldn't get would be the toe caster and camber is done by upper control arms.

[DakotaKid]

well its not so much that he couldent have done it. the geometry would be wrong wich could cause bad bumpsteer and cause the steering to do funky things.

The Pitman arm and the Idler arm need to move in the same arc, i know thats true. Im going to see what i can do to get it at least closer.

[ls60apache]

ok im curious in what you find out, I have the exact setup under my 60 of course it will be awhile till alignment. if you have a angle degree gage compare the degree of angle at the bottom of pitman shaft to the bottom of idler arm, that may goof up the arch. just a thought, good luck.

[LostMy65]

Any updates?

[60chevyjim]

is it possible that the steering box adaptor plate is what is making it different ?

[markeb01]

It's been years since I did my front suspension swap, but it seems to me I had this same problem with my center link being too long. If I recall correctly, I solved the problem by sawing off about 3/4" from the threaded area on the driver side tie rod end that connected to the pitman arm. After that everything slid right together and bolted up perfectly.

[dracko]

I just did this swap on my '64 with an '81 crossmember. I also ended up doing what Markeb01 did, I cut about 3/4" of threaded portion off the DS outer tie rod.

[DakotaKid]

see mine was the exact opposite. it needed to be lengthened.

[62stepside longbox]

This is making me nervous as I am just starting the swap now on my 62, hopefully you get it resolved soon

[72cs20]

Dakotakid,

For the idler arm mounting - Did you use the 62 idler arm mounting bracket in its factory location? Or did you use the 74 style idler arm bracket locating it the same way the 74 truck would? This is key in maintaining the proper distance between the pitman arm and idler arm and the they're attachment points on the center link. And you shouldn't need to modify your frame to achieve this, except for drilling a couple of holes for the later model idler arm bracket.

[DakotaKid]

I used the 74 Idler arm, and made a pattern for the mounting from the donor 74 Frame.

[Luckynumberslevin62]

I did this about 3 years ago but I used a 79 front cross member. All I did was bolt the cross member to my 62 frame, kept the 62 idler and bracket in the stock location. Used the CPP power steering bracket kit with the 79 bars and such. Seemed to work well.

[LostMy65]

Here is a 73+ idler arm mounted to my 62 frame. You can see the pivot point is the same as where the 62 arm was.

[62stepside longbox]

Looking at that picture it seems like you could easily get away with using the 62 idler arm like luckynumberslevin62 described above

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Looking at that picture it seems like you could easily get away with using the 62 idler arm like luckynumberslevin62 described above

That I guess is what I was getting at.
The only reason I swapped to the newer arm was because the 62 one needed replacing, and I already had the newer arm left over from another project.

[62stepside longbox]

Ever get this solved? I just bolted my steering linkage up and it seems to be just the correct distance from the idler to the pitman.

[HackJob65]

The problem I'm going to assume is that when switching to a later model power steering box is that there's no recess in the frame. So with an adapter bracket the center of steering box output is now 3/4" further outboard the frame than originally. This now prevents the idler arm and pitman arm from swinging their respective arcs in the same timing. If the center link was adjustable this could be corrected. From what I've read most people set toe with the steering box in center of its travel, pitman arm parallel to frame. The idler arm will be pitched slightly inboard and tie rods adjusted as needed to point wheels straight. There a a couple of small front suspension geometry no no's with this setup but most people wouldn't feel the difference if more fabrication was done to correct it.