Replacing Body Bushings with no Top

[Ewr101]

As the title says, I'm replacing my body bushings but I don't have a top. I do have a roll bar though. I'm looking for suggestions on wether or not to put the roll bar in before replacing the bushings to keep flex to a minimum or if I should even worry about it.

[kwmech]

No doubt I would do the bushings first then do the roll bar with a bushed tube tying it into the frame

[Ewr101]

I think you misunderstood. I don't use the roll bar unless I'm going to use my bikini top. Other than that, it stays in the garage. I'm a little concerned about the blazer tub flexing and not going back where it came from or the windshield cracking when I'm jacking the tub off the frame to replace the bushings. The body is very solid and aside from a bubble or two, has no rust. I know putting the roll bar in to help stiffen the tub is probably best practice, but is it really nessasary? I've never done it before so I was checking in on the forum for opinions. Thanks in advance!

[kwmech]

There shouldn't be much flex just replacing the body mounts. I've done maybe 2 or 3 K5s without any issue. I loosen all the bolts and do 1 side at a time.

[buckkoo]

Flex should not be an issue. Just do one side at a time, tighten he first side about 80%, do the second side, then tighten both to spec. Seems like it was 30 - 40 #

[tjsblazer]

Torque varies by position and is in the Assembly manual, however, you can basically tell by the size of the bolt. If I recall correctly.
Rad: ~ 35 lbs/ft
#1 Under driver/passenger feet: ~ 50 lbs/ft
#2 - 5: ~ 25 lbs/ft

[Ewr101]

Good info, guys. I appreciate it. Poly bushings should be here tomorrow and nuts, bolts and washers sometime next week. Bolt Depot had everything I was looking for as far as hardware.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ewr101

I think you misunderstood. I don't use the roll bar unless I'm going to use my bikini top. Other than that, it stays in the garage. I'm a little concerned about the blazer tub flexing and not going back where it came from or the windshield cracking when I'm jacking the tub off the frame to replace the bushings. The body is very solid and aside from a bubble or two, has no rust. I know putting the roll bar in to help stiffen the tub is probably best practice, but is it really nessasary? I've never done it before so I was checking in on the forum for opinions. Thanks in advance!

You'll never crack the windshield, because that's not where these trucks flex. All the flex happens in the rocker panel area. The only way to replace the body bushings is with the doors installed and properly aligned.

When you have the the bushings in, and you're happy with the door fits, I can't stress enough how important it is to adjust the small brass bump stops located at the top of the door. These play a huge part in keeping the doors in proper alignment and preventing rattles.

[Ewr101]

Hmm.... Door alignment. That's part of the reason I'm replacing the bushings. The passenger side door gap is very tight against the the rear quarter panel. Takes a little bit of a pull to open the door. I'd love to only have to align the doors once, I know that job is a P.I.T.A. Maybe I'll start with that side first to spread that out a little?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ewr101

Hmm.... Door alignment. That's part of the reason I'm replacing the bushings. The passenger side door gap is very tight against the the rear quarter panel. Takes a little bit of a pull to open the door. I'd love to only have to align the doors once, I know that job is a P.I.T.A. Maybe I'll start with that side first to spread that out a little?

If that's the case, and you never moved the doors from their original location, then try and get the proper door to quarter panel gap by only playing around with body mounts and shims. Ideally, you want the A pillar of the windhield header parallel to the door 1/4 window pillar with a 3/16 to 1/4 gap