49 3600, s10 swap, project boogie

[Cuttin up]

Been quietly following along and am extremely jealous of the little goldmine you've found. Keep up the good work.

[joedoh]

thanks, we will see how much gold I am allowed to keep haha.

I think next time I will approach this differently, get rid of the aluminum pedal box and just reuse the pedal. Make another jig that locates the pedal and the column mounts. might be cleaner and definitely lighter. Thats development though, its the part I LOVE.

cut the booster holes today, used my circle guides and I dont know how I got along without them. the last screw hole gave me problems though...



oh. that might explain it. haha HUBRIS!



fits!


I trimmed about an inch off the left (drivers side) of the pedal box and trimmed the entire support off the right. It was all ancillary structure for the knee bolster (crash protection) so it was easy to delete. the result was an almost perfect fit right out of the gate.





it centers the steering column between the gauges, and I can go up almost an inch when I trim the pedal box for the 49 column brace.

I need a son, or a willing daughter. this thing is unwieldy and jamming it up in the dash is a workout haha. I took the pictures with my tongue held just right. but closing in on it!

[Advanced Design]

Oops, Looks like you cut the table?

Ok, so you just run the plasma cutter inside the circle guide?

Nice development work there. Pretty involved and cool process.

[joedoh]

no! luckily I was cutting pieces off the sheet at the end of the table, and was just working on top of the sheet. I hung it off the table far enough for the 3" center hole and that went so fast I just grabbed the 1/2 guide and zoop zoop zoop zooooo-oops! wasnt far enough off for the hole. So I ruined the middle of the sheet, but not the table

those guides are great, they are built with the correct diameter hole to let you run the tip inside and have the correct dimension cut. I dont have a drag tip installed, I like the fine cut because it cleans up easy but you have to use a standoff. I am still getting the hang of the circle guides which is why they look a little ragged, but I will get it. the worst thing about the fine cut is how fast you move, if it hangs even a second the kerf melts back and the edge can jag up. I need some weld-aid on these, they are pretty grabby. I also need a dremel with a sanding drum, the cut cleans up almost perfect IF you can get to it.

[joedoh]

Welded up all the joints, thought about cutting the mounting holes in it but it was pretty hot for a long time after this.


so I pushed the frame in and started hooking stuff up.


had to weld up that motor mount I straightened out


my 20 year old cat wanted to say hi


PLOP. new trans mount and both motor mounts you could whistle through. glad I fixed that one, thanks Mark!



time to fix the fuel lines, I kinked them at the plastic joint and didnt trust them


no good deed goes unpunished, the bracket screw broke off, had to drill and tap


shortened the exhaust, worked out perfect, the trans mount hangers are in the right spot and now so is the gas tank crossmember and tailpipe hangers.


all brake lines ran, fuel lines ran, I couldnt find the tank mounts in my parts pile, might have to pick a couple up this week along with a longbed aluminum driveshaft to be shortened


I worked a little more past this picture, everything is connected and ready for the cab to be installed. probably tomorrow night!

[99 to Life]

congrats on the 41's man. cat looks like its in better shape than me, I'm 32 and turning grey and bald! Seat looks killer.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I'm curious on how you are going to shorten the driveshaft. No one around here does aluminum.

[joedoh]

inland truck parts (ITP) does it for $110. they have franchises everywhere. if you look back in this thread and in my 65 thread, I have done it twice, I will never go anywhere else. There is an outfit of crooks here called powerdrive, they tell you a price on the phone then double it when you get there.

your other option is to just have them make you a new steel one, take in a shortbed steel driveshaft and tell them how long to make it, I shorten a longbed driveshaft 5-7 inches (depending on how much I move the engine back), but I have never measured one for overall length, sorry!

since I didnt earlier, I took a quick snap of where I stopped

[MalibuSSwagon]

ahh looks like their closest shop is about 1200 miles from me. Guess I'll keep looking. I have a 5" diameter aluminum driveshaft from a 99 Silverado I'd like to use in my C10 but it's a bit too long.

[lower50's]

Wow joedoh did you hook all that up in one day? Great feeling ready to put the cab back on!!

[joedoh]

yeah, the nice thing about using a complete donor is you dont have to figure out every little tiny thing. it looks impressive to get it all done in a day, but to be honest it only took 2 hours because everything just plugged, bolted, or attached the way it was before.

went out to put the cab on and that supply line was bugging me, it had a flash rust showing on the inside edge, so I pulled it back off and cleaned it. easiest to do with the cab off. when I was finishing that, the new distributor showed up.



I ordered a new one, this donor gave up a lot of ancillary parts as it sat around to be installed, temp senders, oil pressure senders, fuel pump, serp belt, and the distributor. so new parts have been showing up. The oil pump shaft was a little out of line, I dont have a super long screwdriver though. I used a support rod to turn it haha, never throw anything away, right?




after some swearing at my $50 cherry picker, mostly because the wheels like doing whatever they want, and after a trip to the hardware store for some 5" bolts for the front mounts, I got the cab on. remember that the rear mount was 1/4" low, and I welded it up higher without trial fitting. shouldnt have worried, cab is level now. the only thing I can figure is the floor is slightly crooked because of all the rust and years.



then the moment of truth, I had thumbnailed the front core mounts into a new position based on how much the rubber "squished", also the second mount was way out of shape. would the bolts fit?

shouldnt have worried, bolts dropped right through and fit PERFECT.



hood shut perfect


wheel is turned slightly


tomorrow is brakes and steering! today I was limited to only a couple hours shop time (including inside out cleaning), tomorrow I have some stuff to ship in the morning but a whole day to work.

[joedoh]

oh and I finally got some actual 41-46 rear fenders. my brother in PA texted me all excited, there was a 46 for parts on the local craigslist. I was the first to call! got a pretty good deal too, thanks bro!

[lower50's]

Lookin good joedoh. Nice score on the fenders.

[Palf70Step]

[Advanced Design]

Wow, the front came together really well! Nice score on the fenders too.

[99 to Life]

moving along very nicely. Dunno how he found those parts bf me!!! I usually scour CL but I usually never look for stuff pre 47'. Nice find though, super hard to find those I know.

[rusty76]

Cool

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

moving along very nicely. Dunno how he found those parts bf me!!! I usually scour CL but I usually never look for stuff pre 47'. Nice find though, super hard to find those I know.

man I dunno, he showed me the ad when it was 3 hrs old and I called right away, and by the time my brother even got there in the morning the ad was down and the rest of the truck was sold. I bet it wasnt even up 12 hours.


started today fixing a little rust sticktion. the passenger door never shut all the way, a little PB blaster though and


that worked amazing, so I tried the cowl vent next, which was stuck so hard a breaker bar wouldnt even budge it. squirt squirt though and


I was going to call it a day after that, no sense tempting fate, I had worked all morning till almost 1 shipping a motorcycle engine and some other parts (invest in cardboard stocks, thats stuff is crazy priced now a days) and my brother was coming for dinner, but I figured I could at least try mounting the pedal and column. I scraped all the insulation off the firewall and got the holes cut, and bolted the booster to hold it





after some trimming the pedals fit right up



and the column dropped right in



I need to triangulate to the dash mount and add the L bracket on the lower vertical bolt, it is not yet as sturdy as it can be, but I am tickled pink. the cowl vent still works, but the side vent will not, the pedal assembly is blocking it. cest la vie!

should run this week!

[99 to Life]

woah, that truck around my parts would be gone fast. Seems solid for what it is. Great score. I don't look enough for pre 47 stuff.

nice progress, you'll be driving that thing this summer.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

woah, that truck around my parts would be gone fast. Seems solid for what it is. Great score. I don't look enough for pre 47 stuff.

it WAS around your parts, meadville CL!

[Advanced Design]

Nice fab work with the brake and column mounting. No flex in that for sure.

Craigs good deals...you about have to have the trailer hooked to the truck, cash on hand and be ready to roll the minute you spot the ad.

[lower50's]

Looks good fits in there just right. How is it attached to the dash? Or isn't it.

[joedoh]

in this picture,




you can see how the new bracket butts up against the original dash support. I will make a small, strong, triangle, bracket that bolts to the front of the s10 assembly (there is a bolt there that is directly under the bracket) and up to the original dash support in the hole shown.

also, in this picture you can see a bolt head that goes straight up,



it bolts into a welded nut on the top of my interface bracket. I will make an L bracket that welds to the kick panel and lets the bolt go through it, making that side strong against twisting.

I made the bracket really strong Advanced, yes, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. if you pull straight down on the column right now like a lever, the torque is applied at where the interface bracket bolts to the firewall. I added some bolts, plus the four on the booster,



and the firewall is still pretty flexy. I am hoping that triangulation bracket and lower bracket is all that is needed, if not I have no problem adding a couple tabs to the column and just bolting it to the factory holes in the bottom of the dash. I may in fact, do that INSTEAD of making the little triangle brackets. in my opinion its no different than a u bolt that most guys use.

[joedoh]

not much to report yet, I got my new gas tank straps in but no hardware or pump, so I messed with my recent purchases instead. beeps and I took the hour drive south and picked up two beds, the 46 bed and the 47, I know its a 47 because it has a gas tank hole in it!



I started to muscle the beds around and the guy just laughed, pulled out the bale spikes on his loader.


the 46 almost fit inside the 47


visited my 41s, he pulled them across the creek for the tow guys, just need them to bring em home now.


this is the extra one I didnt know I got



I have beed rebuilding the shed in the back yard and was about to build a wooden door, bought this instead while I was there.


have to unload so I can go back tomorrow and get the phone company bed, but I dont have a loader. so I lightened the load a little by cutting out the steel floor


tried to do the same to the 47, but all the bolts are hard to get to, so I shimmied it off the flatbed and left it till help comes home.

[rusty76]

So jealous