55*6BT My 55 w/ Cummins power

[II_Slow]

More of my usual slow but steady progress. I finally welded the dash in permanently after installing and testing the Raingear wipers. What a PITA that was. No access to the wiper motor from below, I could only reach in from the sides. Ended up taking everything out and pre-assembling in the floor then installing that way. Never could get the arms, shims, washer, and clip on any other way. Very happy with it now. Started installing the Dakota dash interface and wiring harness.

Also added a manifold and turbo blanket, then wrapped the down pipe.

This is mostly to protect the PCM since it is so close to the turbo. Should keep the heat down behind the firewall as well.

Also finished patching that rusty brow. Still have to knock down the welds and get it ready for the body guys to do their thing.



Speaking of body guys. They finally showed up yesterday and got a couple of hours in, starting on cab corners and the back of the cab. Sure good to see some progress on the bodywork. They said they are coming back tonight to finish up the back of the cab and the roof.



I'm thinking the Power Tour may not be an option. As Cruz said "tonight, I'm sorry to say it appears that path has been foreclosed". I can't get everything done right in a month, and I've put too much into to start taking shortcuts now so it's more important to me to get it right than hit that deadline.

[Kim57]

Looks good.
Too bad about the Power Tour.
Kim

[Dieselwrencher]

Oh well there will be one next year! I don't blame you one bit!

[II_Slow]

Body guys finished the back of the cab and lower door opening, doors are hung and aligned and filler work started on the doors. Ben is supposed to be back today to work more on the doors and roof.
I finished tacking in the dash and knocking down the welds at the base of the windshield. I filled the old trim holes above the back glass. Finished up some metal work on the bedsides, then knocked the rust off of the bed frame and floor before hitting those with the Eastwood Chassis Black Extreme. I started brushing the rust off of the bed floor with a 3-4 inch grinder Saturday. Got about half of one side done. Broke out the 7-inch grinder Monday - wow what a difference. I think I've said it before but that thing is a beast - one of the best tool investments I've ever made. If you don't have one - do yourself a favor and go get one today. It will cut, grind, or brush anything and does all of the work for you.
Anyway, the back fenders are done, bedsides, floor and bed frame are done (except for wheel tub install), tailgate is new, bed front is new.



I think I have settled on a color - Daytona Sunset Metallic. It's Corvette color, maybe on others too. It's higher that giraffe p___y (over $300 a quart) but it's only money and as many hours as I have in this thing I'm not going to compromise on color over a few hundred dollars.

[Kim57]

Very nice color choice.
Kim

[lower50's]

That sucks about power tour, but ya don't take shortcuts you will only kick yourself later. Your better to get it all done and work out the bugs and hit the tour next year trouble free. I might do part of the power tour next year. Your body is looking good.

[II_Slow]

Oddly enough, missing the deadline seems to bother everyone else (friends and family) more than it bothers me. I was taking too much time away from everything else thrashing on this thing and it was zapping all of the fun right out of it. Now that I've backed off and only work on it when I want to work on it, it's much more enjoyable. Seems like a few folks gave me that advise early on (don't set a strict deadline) but as usual I don't listen to any one.
Started the wiring and sensor install HVX Guage cluster.

[II_Slow]

Nrecent progress on the body work - haven't seen the painter since I gave him more money 3 weeks ago. Says he's coming this week.

In the mean time, I've been reworking the bed. I rounded the back bed corners using 1-3/4 header tubing mandrel bends (wish they were tighter bends, but this should look great with an old school snap-on tonneau cover.


I had already filled the other stake pocket holes. I bought hidden latches for the tail gate but I'm not going to use them - I want the chains (with covers) for the more factory look.

I had to buy a new front panel for the bed. the other had too much rust. I clearanced the new one to clear the frame a batteries. Also installed the new tailgate, then reworked my custom bed frame and floor to clear the wheel tubs. I really don't need the clearance now, but had already cut the bed sides - and this will allow for much wider wheel and tire package if I want them later.



Also working on the wiring that stays inside the cab. Still havent figured out how I want to run the wires through the firewall - bulkhead or other feedthrough.

I finally got the fuse box, Dakota dask interface, both Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition boxes, and Terminal strips fitting under the dash. It's packed under there and I still need to route the A/C ducts.

[Kim57]

Nice progress. Looks good.
Kim

[II_Slow]

First thing going on my truck when it hits the road - need to get this before the libtards infiltrate Texas much more than they already have!

[Kim57]

That's very cool.
Kim

[lower50's]

Nice

[II_Slow]

Body guys had a productive day yesterday. They also returned the rear fenders so I put them back on and started squaring up the bed so I can center the rearend and set the pinion angle before welding on the spring perches and shock mounts.
Hopefully they'll get this thing in sealer and/or primer soon. I bought a better hood a few weeks ago that only needs a little filler work on the top and filling/smoothing the holes on the front after I remove the big emblem. Braces look great, and top side above the braces do as well so that will save me some time.

I'm pretty happy with the stance, includine the rake. If it was a half ton, I might want it a little lower but this if fine for a toy hauler (race car or travel trailer).
I put the key switch back in to run the engine and allow me to move the truck around easier. It sure runs great with the intercooler piping, Air Raid filter, and (almost) full exhaust in place. You can really hear the turbo now! Noise in the cab was knocked down a lot with all of the sound deadener, but I still can't tell how quite it will be inside until the carpet is in and the glass & weatherstripping is in place. I can't wait to get it road ready enough to take to First Class Diesel so we can turn up the fuel pump.

[tintbox]

Awesome build sir!

[Kim57]

Looks good.
Kim

[1972RedNeck]

Don't know how I missed this one - subscribed.

[II_Slow]

Put the fenders back on the bed, finally got happy with the positioning of the bed and permanently (yeah, right!) mounted it, then centered up the rear end and dialed in the pinion angle. Tacked the lower shock mounts and spring perches on, then dropped the rear end back out and permanently welded the brackets on. Lost about a quart of brakefluid over night, that stuff is just nasty! Thought I had it capped good enough, but obviously not. Also pulled out the driveshaft and removed the u-joints to make sure I got the right replacements. After several failed attempts, I gave up on reassembly without a press. I need to have a new driveshaft made (actually just re-tube what I have), so I'll just let the driveshaft shop install the new u-joints. I did get my temporary drive shaft laser straight but I dont trust the butt-weld or balance. I just cut down one section of the factory driveshaft, then used hose clamps to secure each end into a piece of 3-inch angle iron and that worked great to keep it straight. It's also a little short. Re-tubing my driveshaft using my old yokes is only about $100 and it will get balanced so why not.

I spent the evening stripping some harnesses and connectors off of a few donor trucks for the cruise control and ABS. I was expecting to be eaten up with chiggers this morning since the trucks were all in tall grass but so far so good. I also got the cruise control servo I needed so I'll find a good spot to mount that. I trudge on.......

[II_Slow]

Dropped the drive shaft off at the shop this morning for a quick retube and balance.
Woke up yesterday to rain and cool day - we don't get that often here in Texas in July so I spend the morning cleaning up the shop and confirming the wiring on the keyless remote start. I'm convinced it's wired right so I'm going to send it back in for bench testing. Also connected the tach output from the alternator to the Dakota Digital dash. It reads about 3000RPM at idle and sweeps when I rev the engine so it should just need a calibration if I can find a timing light with a strobe feature. Worst case I can just back the idle readig down to about 750-800 and it will be pretty close for now.
Picked up my brackets from the fab shop this morning. Just plates with slotted holes to allow me to set the fender positioning. I can't wait to get the driveshaft in and the fenders pinned in place. She's getting a road test at highway speed soon, who needs a windshield anyway?

[lower50's]

Sounds like some good progress! When you get it up to about 80mph put some goggles on and your mouth shut.

[II_Slow]

Well the driveshaft is too long. I gave him dimensions from both the tailshaft flange, and the end of the tailshaft which protrudes 1-1/4" beyond the seal. He said he was only interested in the masurement to the flange. Guess he should have listened, now he has a do-over on his dime......
Also ranout of options in the Guard Dawg keyless ignition - it is going back for bench test or replacement.

[ptc]

Project looking good! --- another one coming to the road soon!~

[II_Slow]

Well I figured out that pesky ignition problem. I had a cable that was not fully seated. I have the two module sandwiched together and mounted on the side of the brake pedal mount with the cables going out the top so I can't really see them. I was taking it out to send it back for bench test, and I noticed one of the cables was cocked. After I reseated it, it would switch from ACC to IGN as it should, so I hooked up the starter and it fired the engine from the fob. It still has one quirky issue I need to sort out. The tach signal is coming off of the Alternator, and is very slow to come up. I have it connected to the Dakota Digital gauge cluster, and the engine is running 5 or 6 seconds before the tach come off of zero. The remote start is keeping the starter engaged, and shutting the engine off and restarting a few seconds later, so obviously it is re-trying because it doesn't see the engine running. Oh, well that's progress. I'll find a work-around.

[II_Slow]

Black Marks Matter!

Yeah, I know - a little weak. No posi. First burnout - but Milestone achieved nonetheless. Just had to drive it out of the shop to sweep. Just about finished fabricating brackets and tabs to properly mount and align the fenders and core support, tonight I'll see if the hood x-brace is going to clear the intercooler piping to the intake.
Driveshaft headed back to the shop today to have it shortened a half inch or so (only has about 1/8" of play right now). Still planning on a running her up to highway speed this weekend

[Kim57]

Cool.
Kim

[lower50's]

Very cool. It's nice to prove with black marks all over town that yes it runs and has gobs of torque.