Starting 68 C10 Frame Off project--Porterbuilt Questions

[sledneck55]

Hello,

I've been taking in as much info on this site as I can for a while but this is my first post to the forum as I'm finally starting my project and have some questions. I have a 68 C10 factory SWB that I'm doing a frame-off build on but am very new to the 2wd air ride setups and have some questions that I'm hoping I can get answered and I figured this was the best place to ask.

I've all but decided on going with a non-drop member Porterbuilt setup. I have read the awesome build post by MAC808 but still have a couple questions before I call Porterbuilt to get things ordered up. I know they're busy so just trying to get things ironed out a bit before I call so I don't waste a bunch of their time.

I'm looking at the Stage 2 deluxe front and rear kits. I will be using AccuAir E-Level system for air management.

Just got the body off and brought the frame home into my shop while the body work is being completed so I can strip the frame down to get it blasted, primed and painted in the next couple weeks.

Anyway, here we go with a couple questions (but I'm sure there will be lots more)

1. From what I have read, it's beneficial to get the upper control arms and 1" forward, is that true?

2. Am I going to be sacrificing anything if I get the stage 2 basic rear kit without the rear trailing arms? Or will the stock trailing arms be adequate? I'm ok with spending the money for the arms if they are an improvement but I don't want to get them just to get them. I noticed MAC808 was using the stock arms and his truck looks awesome.

Once I figure out how to post some pics I'll show my progress so far.

Thanks in advance for your help! I'm anxious to get parts ordered but I want to do it right the first time.

[dec010974]

Hello sledneck55. just to get an idea of what these trucks look like I have posted pics of my 1971 C10. it has 3 inch beltech lowering spindles, stock upper and lower control arms, 17 inch wheels and PB stage 1 front lowering kit. The stock cross member and control arms hit the ground when my truck is aired out. for the rear I went with 10 inch frame notch, built a bridged, and mounted my air bags and shocks to the bridge. i will post more pics when I get home. good luck on your quest for ridin' low. my truck is daily drivenan dto point where I want to enjoy. no more tear downs until my wallet fattens up a lil bit. the next tear down is gonna be costly, custom, frame off restoration.

[sledneck55]

Thanks for the reply DEC010974, Your truck stance looks damn good. Great to see that can be done with stock arms and no drop member. So obviously your stock arms didn't restrict you from going low. Have you had any alignment issues or problems going that low with the stock arms, or ball joint issues?

As for the rear, I'm looking forward to your pics so I can see how you did it.

My truck won't be a daily driver but I plan on driving it as much as possible outside of winter time.

Here are a few pics of the progress so far. [IMG]


[/IMG]

marker and stake pockets have been filled





fuel tank is removed and fuel spout is been removed and filled


pulled the motor, leaning towards building a SBC 406 with Dart block or may just go with a 383. idk, I had a 402 BB in my 4wd 72 SWB and loved it so may go with a BB again. Decisions decisions...


The cab came off Sunday night


and now home in my shop getting ready to strip down to have blasted, primed and painted. So it's time to make some suspension decisions so I can keep going.


Thanks again for your response.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by sledneck55

1. From what I have read, it's beneficial to get the upper control arms and 1" forward, is that true?

2. Am I going to be sacrificing anything if I get the stage 2 basic rear kit without the rear trailing arms? Or will the stock trailing arms be adequate? I'm ok with spending the money for the arms if they are an improvement but I don't want to get them just to get them. I noticed MAC808 was using the stock arms and his truck looks awesome.

Once I figure out how to post some pics I'll show my progress so far.

Thanks in advance for your help! I'm anxious to get parts ordered but I want to do it right the first time.

The lower the truck is using bags/drop springs, the more the wheel is off center in the wheel well. The 1" forward arms help re-center for the best 'look'.


Stock rear truck arms get the job done w/a stock bed floor in place. If the bed floor doesn't have to be raised for clearance, the aftermarket arms are just an upgrade.

[sledneck55]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The lower the truck is using bags/drop springs, the more the wheel is off center in the wheel well. The 1" forward arms help re-center for the best 'look'.


Stock rear truck arms get the job done w/a stock bed floor in place. If the bed floor doesn't have to be raised for clearance, the aftermarket arms are just an upgrade.

Thanks SCOTI, that's the answer I was looking for on the trailing arms. Same with the arms up front. I appreciate the help.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by sledneck55

Thanks SCOTI, that's the answer I was looking for on the trailing arms. Same with the arms up front. I appreciate the help.

If you retain the stock rear truck-arms, I recommend doing about 4 short 1-1.5" stitch welds along the seam of the arms (top & bottom). Not necessary but cheap insurance if you can get it done.

[sdotrivers15]

Not sure what your timeline is on having the frame done, but know that PB has a pretty decent lead time on getting their stuff shipped out. I'd wanna do the fab work on the frame before painting it.

here's another thread that you'll wanna read through.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=598758

[sledneck55]

Originally Posted by sdotrivers15

Not sure what your timeline is on having the frame done, but know that PB has a pretty decent lead time on getting their stuff shipped out. I'd wanna do the fab work on the frame before painting it.

here's another thread that you'll wanna read through.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=598758

That's a good point and one I'd been thinking about, especially if the PB stuff is shipped raw which it seems like it is. I just need to call PB to put my order together and see what I'm looking at for time.

I'd like to get the frame done as soon as I can but I don't want to do things in the wrong order or not correctly so it probably would be the best to get the fab work done and mocked up before sending the frame out. In all reality, it will probably be next summer before I have the money to get my motor completed and truck painted anyway so really there's no rush I guess.

Thanks for the input and I'll check the other build thread out.

Also, SCOTI, thanks for the advice on welding the arms. I'll do that if I stick with the stock ones.

[sdotrivers15]

With painting the frame, it wouldn't be that hard to fix an area of it if you had to. Still though, just I'd prefer not having to do that. & I have stage 2 front & rear kits on order with PB, they told me the lead time was around 12-14 weeks.

[dec010974]

Sorry for the delay sledneck55. Better late than never. Good Luck with your Air ride system.

[sledneck55]

Thanks for the pics dec010974 and no worries on delay. I know everyone is busy with life. It's interesting to see how many different ways these trucks can be done and gives me a lot of ideas.