The '52 6104 Build

[whateverpratt]

Here it is. Last year I acquired a '52 6400 that was originally out of NM but had found its way to a field about 10 miles away from my house. I bought it because of how little rot it has and because of a silly childhood infatuation with NAPCO's and AD trucks.

The plan is to shorten the 6400 frame down to what a 6100 frame size (take 2' out of the middle), leave the original springs, switch out the axles for h072's front and rear, swap the 235 for a 5.3 and the sm420 for an nv4500, add a divorced np205, sandblast and paint the front clip, doors and cab, and finally drop a 9 ft pickup bed on the truck.

Working at a post secondary education institution has afforded me the summer off, so I will have a couple of months to try and complete the bulk of this project. We shall see

[iowaboynca]

sounds like a cool project! Since the nv4500 came behind 6.0L, might be easier to find a mated pair?

Congratz on the cool project.

[whateverpratt]

Thanks
I have a 5.3 that I pulled from an '05 GMC, and an nv4500 out of a 2wd gm (the shortest tailhousing). I basically followed the advice in this thread (http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...-ls-motor.html) for figuring out how to mate the 5.3 to nv4500 without having to use the expensive new style clutch or a hydraulic throwout bearing. I'll show pics and explain what I did a little more when I get near installing the drivetrain. Whenever this 5.3 gives out, I plan on putting together a 408 (6.0 bored .030 over with 4" crank) with the intention of making it a torque monster below 3,500rpm since this will be a work truck rather than a rod.

[whateverpratt]

Pulled off the flatbed, gas tank, spare tire carrier (that someone must have backed into something) and the seat today. The battery tray is in amazing shape, but I'm starting to worry that the cab corners are going to be more gone than originally anticipated. I'm thinking that the original exhaust hanger is still on here since it is riveted to the frame.

[whateverpratt]

A little more tear down today revealed some rust holes and bondo. Looks like I'm going to have to learn how to do body work.

[dug224]

Nice truck! Will be fun build. Post lots of pictures...dug

[whateverpratt]

Didn't get much done today. I spent a lot of time finding out that the po riveted in some pieces of tin over the rusty floor and then bondoed the heck out of it. This cab is turning out to be a little rough. I got shovel fulls of dirt off of the engine and radiator crossmembers.

[whateverpratt]

Pulled the engine and trans today. The parking brake on the transmission is pretty awesome. I wish GM would have done this to more of their transmissions.

[whateverpratt]

Didn't get much done today due to the rain, but I did manage to screw up my steering column. The puller that I used to get the steering wheel off had a point, and that sucker was hard enough to drill into the top of the column and distort it enough to where the nut will not go back on. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix that yet. I'm hoping that just running a die over the threads will bring everything back into the proper dimensions.

[whateverpratt]

Can't get that stupid phone camera to focus correctly

[whateverpratt]

These show the distortion better

[mongocanfly]

To late now... but for future reference anytime your using a puller with a guide point and your shaft doesnt have a puller dimple..you should use a center punch in the center of your shaft to make a stater hole then use a drill to make a dimple in the shaft..not to deep but just deep enough to keep the puller centered. Looks like this is going to be a fun project..

[whateverpratt]

Yep, but I won't make that mistake again

[whateverpratt]

My brother had a good fix for the steering column. He suggested cutting the top two threads off of the column. It's simple, and I should still have enough for the nut thread on all the way.

Today was spent gutting the cab and the frame rails. It's starting to look pretty bare.

I also forgot to post a picture of how I attached my chain to the old straight six. A lot of people online were suggesting that you back out a couple of head bolts. I pulled the valve cover to see how easy it would be to pull some head bolts, but I saw how beefy the valve cover studs were. I just put the chain on the valve cover studs, and it worked great.

[whateverpratt]

With the exception of the upper door hinges and the VIN plate, the cab is now stripped. It's actually a lot lighter than I imagined, and I think it will be pretty easy to move with two people. Tomorrow I need to figure out how to get these shackles and springs off.

[whateverpratt]

Monday night my brother helped me lift the cab off the frame, and yesterday I just took the u bolts off the rear axle.

[whateverpratt]

I got a little more done today. The rear spring shackles are the clevis type (as per shop manual), and the shop manual's instructions for removal were to use a slide hammer to remove the pins. However, I found a forum post regarding this, and someone mentioned that there are hols in the frame so that you can just drive them out with a drift. That proved to be very easy, and the best part was that it didn't require any special tools. The hardest part was removing the little pins that keep the large ones from working themselves out of the hangers. They took a few good whacks with a 4lb hammer to remove. These rear spring packs are massive.

[whateverpratt]

The frame is ready to be cut. The only thing I wasn't able to remove yet that I wanted to was a front shackle pin that is seized in the frame.

[whateverpratt]

I took the plunge today. Lots of measuring and 3 cutting wheels later = 2 feet removed from the frame. Now I'm planning on taking the front section and the middle section to a buddy's shop to use the air chisel/hammer to knock out some rivets and remove some crossmembers.

[II_Slow]

Originally Posted by whateverpratt

These show the distortion better

You can buy a 2-piece die the you can seperate and rejoin below the swollen threads, then start backing it off from below the bad threads. That might correct the threads. Or might require a little work with a flat file first. I have not used the set I bought, it just looked too useful to pass up. Google "split die set" and you'll find plenty of them.

Looks like your going to learn to hate rust as bad as I do. It's all fixable, but sure puts a damper on your progress.

[whateverpratt]

Interesting idea; I'll look into that. Nice build by the way. I thought about going diesel on this project, but I'm keeping it simple with a 5.3 that I had sitting in the garage.

[whateverpratt]

I spent some of Friday beveling the edges that were to be welded and trying to get everything lined up correctly, and I realized that I needed to take off about an 1/8" on one side for everything to line up correctly. Saturday I was able to line up everything to within less than a 1/16", so I called it good and tacked everything so that I could remove the clamps. I just finished welding all the edges today and ground all the welds down so that channel bracing should be able to sit flush. Next is putting the cab and suspension back on so I can mock up the drivetrain and make my engine and transmission mounts.

[mongocanfly]

Since you didn't do a z notch on your frame cutting I would box that frame where you welded it back..you could use a section of what you cut out and reverse it back into the frame...would be some good insurance..

[whateverpratt]

The plan is to get a piece of channel bent to slip over the outside of the frame rail at the weld and another one bent to fit inside the rail. That will give me triple the original frame thickness on the web and flanges 8 or 9 inches either side of the weld. Not that I think it's necessary. I bevelled the edges, and filled it in nicely. These old frames are mild steel, so the weld is the same strength as the original metal. I went verticle on my splice to keep the length of the reinforcement at a minimum, and because I don't think a Z or diagonal splice adds any strength to the frame. I've also seen more verticle splices on medium duty trucks than not.

[II_Slow]

Yeah that's about as "frame up" as it gets. Got her stripped down to nothing. Like most of the rest of us, you'll know every square inch of that thing when it's finally finished.
I would still box it or at least fishplate it just to make sure any split or crack doesn't take off. So easy to at this point.