shortening 64' cut style?

[ebaby35]

Ok so going to shorten my chassis and have seen different ways to cut the chassis out. Is there a method or better method then just cutting straight on the frame. should I do a certain style of cut then weld and plate over weld and box? And if anyone knows a local shops in Huntington beach ca area that would be great.

[SnS C10]

I cut my frame down about 7 months ago. I leveled the frame, cross braced it, scribed my cut lines, and then made the cut. Do not make a vertical cut to shorten the frame!! I cut down, over, and down again. Once the frame is seperated, I pulled them back together with straps and clamps, checked for squareness, and tacked in place. Checked for squareness again, and started welding back together. Once completely welded, I put a fish plate on the inside frame rail, welded that completely around and admired my new shortbed. In my picture you can see the weld. I drew the pattern of the cut so you get an idea of how to cut the frame. Hope this helps

[tinydb84]

SnS did it the way I would do it. You can also make a diagonal cut as well.

[ebaby35]

Sweet thanks yeah the cut you did was the one I saw on some tv show and the one I will do. Did you plasma or saw? I think if I measure well I can do this and shouldn't be too hard since only have chasis. Kinda wish I had it on wheels though. Does it matter where you take the 12 inches from the chassis where the cab mounts

Originally Posted by SnS C10

I cut my frame down about 7 months ago. I leveled the frame, cross braced it, scribed my cut lines, and then made the cut. Do not make a vertical cut to shorten the frame!! I cut down, over, and down again. Once the frame is seperated, I pulled them back together with straps and clamps, checked for squareness, and tacked in place. Checked for squareness again, and started welding back together. Once completely welded, I put a fish plate on the inside frame rail, welded that completely around and admired my new shortbed. In my picture you can see the weld. I drew the pattern of the cut so you get an idea of how to cut the frame. Hope this helps

[SnS C10]

yes it does matter. you also need to relocate the foward cab mount the same distance you cut. I cut this with saw. I marked my frame with a metallic silver pencil so i could easily see the path of cut. Also, if you cut in the wrong location, say goodbye to your frame ID number so be careful. Mine is still there. You dont have to have the wheels on. My frame was leveled front to back and diagonally on multiple jack stands with machinists parallels.

[LVPhotos]

Here's the link to Trucks.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/...ne-half-a-c-10

[Mikecc6]

This is how I cut mine.

[ebaby35]

That's how I would like to do mine. Where is the starting point of cut. I understand that 12" need to be removed and then cab mount needs to be moved. was this pretty simple to achieve, all the shops around me are wanting towards 800 which seems really high for cutting a welding something.

Originally Posted by Mikecc6

This is how I cut mine.

[LostMy65]

This video works for our trucks also.
It tells you where to make your cuts.
https://youtu.be/6o2k6QoERio

[Captainfab]

There is a lot more to it than just cutting and welding.

Originally Posted by ebaby35

That's how I would like to do mine. Where is the starting point of cut. I understand that 12" need to be removed and then cab mount needs to be moved. was this pretty simple to achieve, all the shops around me are wanting towards 800 which seems really high for cutting a welding something.

[ebaby35]

I'm sure there is but having trouble finding anything detailed

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There is a lot more to it than just cutting and welding.

[andyh1956]

There is another way to do it but cutting on the diagonal or a zig zag like already posted will do fine. I would add to make a punch mark an inch in from the inside of the frame & one inch rearward of the top cut & another punch mark on top the frame above were the front cut would be on the bottom. (Four punch marks total) make sure the punch marks all square with each other before you cut the frame. That gives you reference points to square to when you put the frame back together.

[timmytimm3]

More details in my build thread but you basically just want to make sure the frame stays 100% square.

[LostMy65]

A shop asking $800 is labor, but probably more so; liability. If your truck frame fails, lives could be involved.

[SnS C10]

just make sure the frame is level and supported correctly. The way that timmytimm supported his frame is the same way i did it as well. This is the thread i followed. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=123624

It is for a 68, but basically the same thing. As far as initial cut location, i followed that thread as well and it worked for me.

[blown240]

If you want to check with another shop, you can see if its something that Engle Bros would want to do. They do some pretty nice work and are in Fountain Valley.

http://englebrothers.com

[Lalo831]

that sounds like a deal to me. there is a local shop i called and they want 2,500

Originally Posted by ebaby35

That's how I would like to do mine. Where is the starting point of cut. I understand that 12" need to be removed and then cab mount needs to be moved. was this pretty simple to achieve, all the shops around me are wanting towards 800 which seems really high for cutting a welding something.

[Captainfab]

Make sure you are comparing apples to apples. The cost is going to be subjective to how much work is required. If you want to drive in a long bed and drive out a short bed, the cost is going to be significantly higher. If you bring the shop a bare rolling frame, then the $800 estimate sounds more appropriate. The couple frames I have shortened, I spent 10-12 hours shortening, relocating the rear cab mount, etc.

[ebaby35]

I don't mind spending the money, but I really want to do as much of the work as I can myself. I just don't have all the tools to do what I want. Found a hot rod shop willing to do it for around 3-4 just have to see if they are on the same page as me for what I want done. The chassis is just a chassis now no wheels or suspension not sure if makes it harder or easier.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Make sure you are comparing apples to apples. The cost is going to be subjective to how much work is required. If you want to drive in a long bed and drive out a short bed, the cost is going to be significantly higher. If you bring the shop a bare rolling frame, then the $800 estimate sounds more appropriate. The couple frames I have shortened, I spent 10-12 hours shortening, relocating the rear cab mount, etc.