POR 15 or Rust Bullet Which to use?

[70cst]

I saw back in Jan 04 there was a small thread on Rust Bullet. I am about to take off my bed so I can make one good LWB bed from two. When I do this I want to rust proof the bottom of the bed floor (underside) and also work on the frame under the bed. I've read info on the POR 15 and know it takes several steps to get the metall ready before applying and it's a little pricey...but I haven't seen a lot of info on the Rust Bullet product. OK...I just found a thread on the Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood. This also looks like a good product to consider...So here's my questions:
1) I would like feed back on the three products...plus/minus
2) How much do I need to buy?
3) Best place to purchase this stuff.
4) Are there other products to consider?
As always you feedback is appreciated and welcomed...I humbly await your answers.

[jaycom102002]

i have used por-15 and the only bad thing i can say about it is a little spendy besides that the stuff is awesome there other products are pretty good too i got mine from thefinishedlook.com

[Sweet72]

Lots of options for "rust proofing products". I've used POR and another moisture curing urethane called MasterSeries Permanent Rust Sealer, they both work well, however they're difficult to use in high humidity as they tend to start curing in the can as soon as you open it. Don't know anything about Rust Bullet though. Eastwood sells a product called Rust Encapsulator. www.eastwoodcompany.com
I've been wanting to try this stuff and want to use it on the underside of my truck bed, inside doors and any other rust prone areas. No matter what you use, all should be top coated with a good quality paint.

[charles oliver]

I have heard Eastwood has one that is pretty good. No problem with Ultra Violet light. It is called Rust Encapsulator. I purchased some, but haven't used it yet.

http://www.eastwood.com/department.a...sPre&SKW=FRUST

[Woody]

I have gone the POR-15 route on one of my trucks. It is a pita to wash, rinse, let dry completely, etch (keep wet 20 min), rinse, let dry completely, por-15, let dry, por-15 let dry.... Plus it's NOT UV protected.

I have read the Rust bullet site and the Zero-Rust sites.
Zero-Rust couldn't be shipped (easily), Not sure if it was considered Haz-Mat or what. So that put it out of the picture.

Now on my 68 C-20 that is surface rusted all over, I want to do the whole bed. So the cost of POR-15 (plus the prep work) was more than I really wanted to go, so I was looking at Rust-Bullet.

Rust-Bullet cost was about right,UV protected, and they say you don't have all that prep work. Now in reality we all know that some prep is needed for every one of these treatments to work as advertised.

So I have been on the edge of buying a Gal of Rust-Bullet, but was hoping to have read a un-biased review of it first.

[70cst]

Thanks Woody...
There was a guy on this sight who sells the Rust Bullet product on ebay. The thing that may sway me to RB is it's easier to prep the metal and its UV resistant...although we are looking at the underneath of the truck. Plus RB may be a little less money. I looked at the Rust Encapsulator price and it seems more expensive if I did my math correctly. Hopefully we will conintue to get some more feed back.
Thanks again.

[charles oliver]

I Ordered 1 gal from Eastwood and it got here with a big dent in the can. It wasn't leaking though and I got it on Sale at 20% off which made it 79.00. I called Eastwood just to voice my displeasure of their shipping and They sent me another full gallon and told me to keep the other.


Only stating this to show their customer satisfaction policy.
I wasn't expecting that. I just wanted to let them know they needed to package these a little better.

Charlie

[Joey-D]

which is cheaper all together. I mean a $100 por-15 might cover a 1000 square feet, but rust-bullet for $75.00 might only cover 100 sqaure feet. (I made those numbers up just to clairify my question) So which one is really cheaper and does it work just as well?

[robertwb]

go to walmart and get some concrete stain/paint-made for driveways and stuff-$15 gallon and really tuff stuff-the only 2 things that will thin it are toluene and xylene and the fumes are obnoxious-but it dries real fast -available in only 5 or 6 colors-it's silicone based so I'm not sure about painting over it-but I did spray undercoating over it and it worked good

I did the underside of a truck cab with it so far and plan to do the bed underside and inside too

before this I used eastwoods red rust encapsulating paint and I think the concrete stuff is better(as long as you don't plan on top coating it) and it sure is cheaper and more convenient

[highboy_04]

i want to know more about this concrete paint stuff. is it really worth it and is it like the por 15 where it wont let water to the metal.

[robertwb]

well I'm sure someone will come up with reasons why it's no good but...it's only $15 a gallon-try it out on some scrap or a small spot in the bed and see if you like it- I do

[highboy_04]

that is pretty cheap. where will i find it at in wally world. its worth a shot. Thanks, Steve

[highboy_04]

is it just roll on stuff or with a brush or how do you apply it.

[robertwb]

in the paint department-it's called concrete sealer or stain-I can't remember exactly-silicone based-only toluene or xylene for cleanup so I use disposable brushes(the bristle type-IIRC it eats the foam ones) I have used rollers too-for the driveway(that's why I had the paint for in the first place) -but it dries so fast if you stop for more than 5 min or so you'll need a new roller/brush
and it has pretty good coverage-I think 1 gallon would do the inside or underside of a bed-I did 2 coats under my datsun cab with about 1/4 gallon

[70cst]

Good suggestion robertwb...

Here's my question...will concrete stain/paint from Wally World neutralize the existing rust. I have two goals. 1) to cover and protect the exposed metal, 2) to cover and retard existing rust that has already started. I guess if the rust isn't treated correctly it be like painting your truck w/o prep...it might look good but before long magic happens...Your truck starts to change colors to rust orange. Maybe I'm off base cause I'm not a body man. As far as that goes I'm not mechanically minded either. Oh well?
I appreciate all these ideas. That being said what to you all think about neutalizing the rust. Is this a valid concern? Would I be better off in the long run to use POR 15, Rust Encapsulator, or Rust Bullett.
Joey-D also made a good point...what is the cost per sq. foot to use these products. I don't want to spend more money then I have to but I'm planning on taking this bed off one time. So what ever I use I only want to use it once. Thanks Again for all you ideas!! Maybe this can become a master thread on these three products.



:p

[Pilgrim]

Try OSPHO (brand name) available at marine hardware stores. It is phosphoric acid and truns iron oxide to iron phosphate. When it is dry, you can paint through it. The body shop used it on a few spots when I had my 68 repainted. It is good for frames and anything that is heavily rusted. I use Ace equivalent of rustoleum over it and for underside of metal.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I used por-15 and have just recieved the newest eastwood catalog today in the mail so I may order some rust encapsulator and see how it work's out...

[Gee_Emm]

Once you start using por-15 you will realize how far one little can goes. It goes on very thin, almost like stain. I think you could spend just as much money on rattle cans and get the same amount if not more coverage with por-15.

[70cst]

ttt

[Tx Firefighter]

I use POR15 stuff. I have been 1000% percent happy with the results of every one of their products.

Sure, it may cost 50 or 100 bucks to order a bunch of their stuff, but to me it's worth it. My trucks always sell for real decent prices when I'm done with them, and I think the reason why is that I don't cut corners.

[Blue Beard]

Never heard of the Rust Bullet, who sells it...?

[70cst]

Blue Beard...
I saw a thread on this board comparing Rust Bullett to POR 15. The advantage is less steps in prepping the metal. The add looks good but then again you can't take what everyone says to the bank. Thats why I'm trying to get info from this board. Looks as if POR 15 and Rust Encapsulator are running neck to neck.
Try this sight for info http://www.rustbullet.com/HowItWorks.htm
The more I read the more confused I'm getting. It looks lke RE is less work to use then POR 15 but the coast is about the same.
I'll have to make up my mind in the next week or so.
Until then...

[mastercraftkpk]

I have used the following "rust products" over the past year:

Por-15 $95.00/gal
Rust Bullett $95.00/gal
Wasser miozinc $58.00/gal (MUST be topcoated)
Zero Rust $36.00/gal $6.25 in aresol can



I believe that Por-15 and Rust Bullett are both moisture cured urethanes. They may not be identical, but are both cut from the same cloth.

Don't get too caught up on any claims re: "applying directly over rust" or "minimal preperation needed". I applied POR-15 to a marginally rusted area on the steps on my '01 suburban after only degreasing and removing scale. Last weekend, I noticed that the POR-15 was beginning to peel after only 5 months. On other, completely prepped areas, the POR-15 is doing fine. Soooooo, don't make a decision based on prep difficulty.

If you call local industrial supply houses, you will find the Wasser product. It is a specially formulated zinc primer used extensively on offshore drilling rigs/pumps. It is also classified as a moisture cured product, but requires a top coat.

Zero Rust is a small step down in ability from the moisture cured products, but a big step down in $$$. It also comes in a spray can for convenience. It may not be able to brag about being moisture cured, but IMHO it is the overall winner of all of the products that I have used, all things considered.

You can't make a BAD decision with any of these products. But, be sure to spend the needed time/effort in the prep stages or even the "best" product will completely fail.

UPS will hose you to ship all of these products in gallons due to their contents, but I believe you can still get quarts shipped without additional charges in all of the free states (everywhere but California).

After all of my "testing", I am a Zero-Rust fan.

[Classic Heartbeat]

I'm going to throw "rust mort" into the picture. It is fairly inexpencive ($19.00 per quart) and is easy to apply. I just went to the hardware store and purchased a spray bottle. It has phosphoric acid in it, so it turns the rust into iron phosphate witch will protect the surface of the metal from rusting. I apply it a couple of times, letting it dry between aplications. Once it is totaly dry, you can paint right over the top of it. The local autobody supply store recomends it highly and they sell other products for rust protection there also. The other thing I like about it is it will get into all the little cracks and crevisses, that paint type products can't get into. JMHO WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[70cst]

Thanks guys...
I will make my choice in the next week or so. I now have to do some reading and calculating and...
Oh...I'm getting a headache...HeHeHe
Thanks again for all your input...