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#1 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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best oil to break engine in???
what is the best conventional oil to break in an engine?
i heard that earlier this year, the government made all the oil manufaturers remove something from most of their oil products. i forgot what it was called, but its supposed to be good for breaking in non-roller engines. i've heard that some off-road and race only oils still have it in there. anyone heard about this? also, is there anything special i need to do for my dip stick before i put it in. its just a normal chrome stick, but will it read right since i have a 7 quart pan??? also, should i use sealant on my valve covers? the covers when they are bolted down look to be sealing really well. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 53
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yeah, I want to know too!
I'm about to pick up the 350 I just bought and the guy wants to give me his "non-detergent" oil which he says you've got to use to break in the engine properly. Fine, he's throwing it in along with some other goodies. But I'm a bit concerned b/c the containers look old, they're sealed, you have to use a can opener to open them. I haven't seen that kind of oil for awhile. Anyway, is there a specific oil to use? |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 404
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im not what you would call a super mechanic but anytime ive ever had to break in a new "rebuilt" motor ive used Castrol GTX in itand the first oil change came after 500 miles then 2500 then every2500 thereafter
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so many trucks so little time!!! |
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#4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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i'm with Bob, Castrol GTX all the way. the intervals i go by are a bit different though. i change it at 500, then at 1000, then again at 3000
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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I'v heard to break in new engine with regular oil and then if you want to run your synthetic or whatever in it after the break in period.
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1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle. |
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#6 |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Man, if you guys knew the base stock that was in Castrol GTX, you wouldn't be using it. I used to swear by it myself until I read an in-depth study and testing into various brands of oils. It's comparable to that 99cent Dollar Store stuff. Not trying to piss anyone off, or start an argument, just telling what I've learned. About the best conventional oil that's out there, is Valvoline Max Life. The additive that you're talking about, that was removed (or drastically reduced) in conventional oils, is Zinc. Break your engine in with Shell Rotella. I know that's a diesel oil, but it has the highest zinc content of pretty much any conventional oil. After break in, go with a good synthetic, like Mobil1 or Castrol Syntec. Your engine will love you for it.
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Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() Last edited by 76HighSierra; 03-23-2004 at 12:18 AM. |
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#7 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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i planned on running mobil1 after breakin. i'm happy someone knew what i was talking about in the removed additive. i asked about 3 guys at o'reilyes and they didnt know a thing
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#8 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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#9 |
5-7 dropped 87 CC Dually
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: bay city mi
Posts: 326
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Straight 30w Valvoline.
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I rather be in my 77 Sanger Picklefork Jet Hydro! |
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#10 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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Quote:
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#11 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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anyone know where i can get the oil i posted a few posts ago?
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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Advance auto parts carries the valvoline VR-1 racing oil. I put it in my dirt-bike and just noticed that from that website it said not for wet-clutch applications, oops :p
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1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle. |
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#13 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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the vr-1 and the regular racing are different oils.
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#15 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
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Quote:
__________________
1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle. |
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#16 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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I always break my motors in with non-detergent oil, brand doesn't matter to me. It is all coming out in 600 miles.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Blue Ridge, Tx
Posts: 1,172
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Be sure to toss in a container of GM's EOS. It's definately cheap insurance.
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Fawker Fab three seater rock crawler buggy 498 BBC/SM465/203/205 doubler, propane, 5.13's, 42" PB Rockers '66 C10 - The new hot rod '77 3+3 Dually - 12 valve 4wd conversion tow rig project '28 Ford 2 door sedan street rod RevLimit Offroad "Hang on beer, we can do this." |
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#18 |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,775
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Go to Wal-Mart and get some Delo400. It's made for diesels. It works great in my ZZ4. The thing with diesel engines the oil has to be cleaner and this oil proves it. When I took off my valve covers one day to look I didn't see anything but aluminum and clean oil even after 1000 miles since the last oil change. Plus it's cheap.
I agree for sure with 67_SS396 in to use some GM EOS- Very cheap insurance to make sure the cam gets broke in correctly.
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
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#19 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,720
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You want some sort of strait 30w dino oil with a can of GM EOS in also. Change at 500miles to whatever weight dino oil you want, wait until at least 3000miles [IMO] to go synthetic.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
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#20 | |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Quote:
Slonaker |
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#21 | |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Quote:
__________________
Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,181
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In all the books I have about rebuilding engines, everyone specifies 30w non-synthetic engine oil for the break-in period.
They say to switch it right after the 20 minute breakin period to get rid of startup lube, etc that's in it, and replace it with whichever oil you prefer, replacing it again at 500 and 1000. Brian |
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#23 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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i'll be using the valvoline racing oil 10w30 for the first 20 minutes or so to break it in. then i'll dump it and replace it with some more of the valvoline racing oil. after 500 miles i'll drop it and put mobil1 in it
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,181
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OC,
For what it's worth, the books I have specifically say NOT to use multi-weight (i.e. 10w30) oil for the break in. I'm not sure I could explain why, though. Brian |
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#25 | |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
__________________
-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
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