10-25-2016, 05:54 PM | #1 |
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Front Springs
Hello Everyone
Looking for suggestions for re installing the front springs 71 c10. I have spring compressor, but it is a PIA to get into that area and also keep the spring in the correction location. Any expert advice appreciated. Thanks John |
10-25-2016, 07:16 PM | #2 |
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Re: Front Springs
Place a floor jack under lower control arm close to lower ball joint use 2x4 between for stability jack up enough to remove tire remove shock and disconnect lower ball joint {use ball joint removal tool} jack up frame until no tension on spring should come out. locate new spring on lower control arm lined up with detent lower frame until spring is under tension and reinstall shock and ball joint. for safety you can run a chain through upper and lower a rms. If you have a sway bar remove it when you remove the shock. Also you could use a cutting torch for removal. This method has worked for me just take your time and make sure the spring is under tension before you disconnect the shock and ball joint. GOOD LUCK-BE SAFE-HAPPY TRAILS
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10-25-2016, 07:19 PM | #3 |
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Re: Front Springs
If you have the weight of the engine and body on the truck, that's the way to go. You should only need the spring compressor if, like me, you waited until you were down to the bare frame to do it. If using a spring compressor, resist the temptation of using an impact to run it down - it has to be done by hand.
Frankly I'd rather diffuse a bomb than stick my face up around a compressed spring. Gave me the willies when I did it.
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1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible |
10-25-2016, 07:47 PM | #4 |
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Re: Front Springs
Thanks Guys
I have the truck down to the frame with only the motor and transmission installed. Any others suggestions to make this easy. Thanks |
10-25-2016, 08:24 PM | #5 |
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Re: Front Springs
I would think that the weight of the frame, engine and trans would be enough to compress the spring. I had to do this once on a very old Chrysler sedan, and I chose to disconnect the lower A arm at the inner pivot, rather than at the outside. Once I got the new spring in place, I put a really good block of wood under the A arm, and gently lowered the car until the spring was compressed, and the A arm was pretty close to being lined up. I refit the pivot shaft for the A-arm, and did everything up.
I would most definitely agree that you should use something like a cable or a chain to stop the spring from moving out of position and injuring you when you are raising the truck, then lowering it. Don't know if this method (disconnecting A-arms at the inner pivots) would work with our trucks, but someone will know.
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Rick -69 GMC 910 Long Box, 350 -98 Chev Silverado 1500, 350 Vortec 4L60e -08 Mustang GT Convertible |
10-25-2016, 09:12 PM | #6 |
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Re: Front Springs
If the spring doersnt compress with the jack at the very end of the control arm you can stack heavy stuff on the front of the frame such as bags of sand, etc. It works, I've done it before.
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10-25-2016, 09:52 PM | #7 |
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Re: Front Springs
Randy
That's a great idea about the heavy items on the a arm. I guess my old age has caught me napping. Thanks for your suggestion. John |
10-26-2016, 12:35 AM | #8 |
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Re: Front Springs
I unbolted the u bolts from the inside of the LCA and then used a jack to lower then raise back. Worked well and was pretty anticlimactic.
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10-26-2016, 01:49 AM | #9 |
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Re: Front Springs
Thanks everyone, very good suggestions.
John |
10-26-2016, 11:24 AM | #10 |
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Re: Front Springs
I removed and installed the front coils (stock) in my 64 impala ss with no motor, trans or front clip. Talk about testing the limits of a spring compressor... good luck and safety first.
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"Work hard, use your vacation days." 1970 C15 GMC Long Bed 1986 C20 Scottsdale 1983 K2500 Sierra Classic Suburban 6.2 Instagram: C10sofOC |
10-26-2016, 11:33 AM | #11 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
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Re: Front Springs
Support frame on jack stands and remove tire.
Remove sway bar and shock (VERY important to remove sway bar with even weight on nose, they like to "pop" once free if one side is loaded differently or hanging free...) Remove cotter pin and loosen nut on lower control arm ball joint, but do not remove nut! If you're trying to save your ball joints smack lower control arm near the ball joint with a hammer (they're thick as crap you can't hurt them). If not, use a fork or smack the top of the ball joint with the nut flush with the top of the ball joint (if you damage threads, you might not be able to get the nut off!) When the ball joint is loose, then put a jack under the control arm, lift up, remove nut, slowly release jack. I wanted to use a spring compressor, but after I lowered my truck it was near impossible to get one under the truck to use, so I used this method on both sides (nose was too low, I raised it 1/2").
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
10-26-2016, 12:19 PM | #12 |
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Re: Front Springs
When I did it on my '69 Pontiac B-Body there was a template in the shop manual for making a beam of out 2x10 wood that is "required" to change the spring. I followed it and cut one out, and it worked well. First time I've seen "custom wood" in a manual.
I don't think there's any such "tool" for our trucks, but its worth reading through the shop manual section on this just for the safety items if any. I know I'm being an old lady about this, but compressed springs contain a LOT of stored energy that's very eager to get out.
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1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible |
10-26-2016, 12:29 PM | #13 |
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Re: Front Springs
Some interesting discussion in this thread. Post 10 looks workable with a bare frame.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=263423 |
10-26-2016, 01:18 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Front Springs
Quote:
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1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible |
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10-26-2016, 01:24 PM | #15 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
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Re: Front Springs
I wrapped a bike lock cable around my spring/A-arm the first couple of times I used the jack method, but it went so well I didn't bother anymore.
I don't like the u bolt method. Too many ways for the A-arm and spring to move once loose. With the ball joint it can only go down. Removing the u bolts it can go down, left, right, out...
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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