Column Saver/Column options/shifter TF trucks

[FAKKY]

Hi guys
So I've been reading through a bunch of threads but honestly right now have a few more questions than answers.
Truck will be a higher HP with new IFS front. I think I want to keep the original column as my wife loves the steering wheel and seems as long as my steering ratio is ok (mainly through steering rack and pinion ratio etc) then it seems the best cost option. However

Does anyone have a link showing the install and use of the steering saver. I found a few old links that look like you have to weld the DD or splined section of shaft to the original column shaft. But then one of the websites says no welding.

Beyond that. Part of the decision with the column is whether to go original column shift or floor shift. Originally I had intended to go floor shift .... and I think I still will ..... but using a simple cable shift would keep costs down and maintain a bit of the retro look.

So some questions.

1) Link to someone who has detailed overview of column save install ?

2) Any safety concerns with original column over aftermarket ? Meaning column shaft coming back into cab in crash. Dont think so based on angles ... but ?

3) Seems like people are using chevy 70's astro vans or C10s for replacement columns. Any particular reason I am assuming its mainly column length and being non key on column ? Post links to pics in build thread if you have a good install you like on a TF truck

4) For people who went with idititinc/flaming river etc - do you think it was wort the money. How is the wiring handled regarding indicators and brakes etc when coming from an aftermarket harness/build - meaning are you plugging indicator wires directly into a harness/relay hidden in the column or ?

5) Can't decide on column shift or floor shift. 4l80e.
Im leaning to doing a lokar/american shifter solid rod floor shifter. However for those guys that kept the column shifter using a cable shift mechanism - do you like it - any issues ? This is attractive from a cost perspective when keeping original column and shifter.
Same for those with floor rod shifter. Like it any issues ?


6) What determines steering wheel compatibility with column. Im assuming a bolt pattern of something. Would like to keep an original looking steeringwheeel whichever column i end up using. Am sure aftermarket would have a combo to wok regardless ...... but keeping costs down as we like the factory wheel.

thanks guys

[FAKKY]

Bumpity ......

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

4) For people who went with idititinc/flaming river etc - do you think it was wort the money. How is the wiring handled regarding indicators and brakes etc when coming from an aftermarket harness/build - meaning are you plugging indicator wires directly into a harness/relay hidden in the column or ?

Yes.

I went with an Ididit column shift kit for my '57. Wired right up to the AAW Classic Update harness. I'm using a CPP400 power steering box.
Perfect fit for using a '57-'59 stock steering wheel. For this combo, an extension would be needed if you wanted to use a stock '55-'56 steering wheel.

You can read all the details in my build thread.

[OrrieG]

No links, but my recollection is that the CPP kits do not require welding because the lower bearing is a resistance fit with set screws to hold it in place. Stock column shaft can accept a Borgsen joint that also used set screws, or you can grind it to fit a DD configuration. Make sure you allow for a slip joint in the shaft to the rack because the frame will flex relatively to the cab and if it is a tight mount something will have to give.

FWIW I used an 82 eldorado column with 3/4 spine bottom, stock 74 steering box with 3/4" spine and made up my shaft between with a combination of Astro van and 74 shaft components. 74 donated the slip/collaspe portion of the column, astro van upper and lower universal joints. I set it up to use a 48 flat steering wheel, like your wife I wanted it to look like a truck wheel.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by roger55

Yes.

I went with an Ididit column shift kit for my '57. Wired right up to the AAW Classic Update harness. I'm using a CPP400 power steering box.
Perfect fit for using a '57-'59 stock steering wheel. For this combo, an extension would be needed if you wanted to use a stock '55-'56 steering wheel.

You can read all the details in my build thread.

Thanks that's useful - the wiring also as I will probably be doing that.
How do the turn signals work with the harness .... Literally just plug and play as they are a standard GM/CHEV config etc ?

Does the column come with the steering shaft ready to attach a rag joint etc ?

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

No links, but my recollection is that the CPP kits do not require welding because the lower bearing is a resistance fit with set screws to hold it in place. Stock column shaft can accept a Borgsen joint that also used set screws, or you can grind it to fit a DD configuration. Make sure you allow for a slip joint in the shaft to the rack because the frame will flex relatively to the cab and if it is a tight mount something will have to give.
.

So I'm guessing everyone is talking about need for lower bearing to support shaft as when you cut away the box ....It loses that support. Sorry not had one apart to see.

Somewhat unsure what I will be left with meaning will I have enough shaft to work with or will need to join the shaft to a small section of similar OD shaft to lengthen it..... Then onto a rag joint or ujoint etc.

Can't find a good write-up of that part ......

I like the idea of keeping the original column for look and $$

If it gets too pricey or I have to adjust the look of rather go for a ididit aftermarket .... I think .... But having never seen one ....

[DPete]

I have the floor shifter installed by the PO, it's in the way, easy to hit with your right leg especially if you are tall. I'm going to leave it because it's already there but would prefer the column.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thanks that's useful - the wiring also as I will probably be doing that.
How do the turn signals work with the harness .... Literally just plug and play as they are a standard GM/CHEV config etc ?

Does the column come with the steering shaft ready to attach a rag joint etc ?

Yes. Signals were plug and play.
I told CPP which column I was using and they supplied me with the correct rag joint.

[1958Warrior]

Here is a good article that shows the process of cutting and shortening the original column, it shows adding a power steering unit to original straight axle but the principle cutting and reusing original column is the same.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/power...traight-axles/

Column saver install instructions here:
http://www.classicperform.com/Instru.../PDF/CPBCS.pdf

[FAKKY]

Thanks 58warriror.

Yeah the main part that confused me was why people were pulling the steering shaft ....
Seemed to me like you could just cut it on the truck with a cutting wheel ..... drop the box .... then cut back the outer column to expose ~2" of steering shaft for attachment of a support lower bearing and then get ujoint on.

I think thats basically what you did ..... right ?

[1958Warrior]

Kind of weird since there are 3 different threads going on with same / similar topic.

No, I removed the column, as I installed a Camaro sub frame to gain IFS,

Depends on what way you go to gain IFS , as to what will work for you, and what length column, how many U-joints you'll need ect.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thanks 58warriror.

Yeah the main part that confused me was why people were pulling the steering shaft ....
Seemed to me like you could just cut it on the truck with a cutting wheel ..... drop the box .... then cut back the outer column to expose ~2" of steering shaft for attachment of a support lower bearing and then get ujoint on.

I think thats basically what you did ..... right ?

If you have the engine out and confidence you can cut the shaft and tube square to the axis, yes. You will also need to fab a bracket to hold the bottom of the tube in place and probably paint the column too. Cuting it long give you the option to use a large pipe cutter to get it square. All of those can be done with it in place, but once it is cut loose from the original box and you have the cut points marked there are only two bolts holding it to the bottom of the dash. I know I had mine in and out half a dozen time measuring, mocking up different brackets and painting. Borgson has a great tutorial starting in their tech manual on different u-joint configurations. I posted the link in of the other two current column threads.

[FAKKY]

Thanks guys.