63 power steering conversion help needed

[63 & 64 Bowties]

63C20, if you'll just click on those blue letters in post #4 all your questions will be answered there. Nobody's trying to be rude. It's just frustrating knowing that you're not reading the info that others are showing you, to try to help you out.

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by padresag

pretty good man to do it all in 2 hours
ron

Its a simple process that people make out to be more than it is. I can understand why, as a lot of people doing this work may not be mechanics or fabricators. With the kits available on the market via Captinfab or whoever else its nothing more than drilling a few holes.

Step 1 acquire parts. For me I found a 1985 being parted out. pulled the box, pitman arm, input shaft, pump, and pressure hose. I also purchased captinfabs kit. you will also need brackets for the power steering pump for whatever engine you have.

Step 2 remove old stuff. Seperate the pitman arm from the steering linkage, cut the input shaft close to the box, remove the 3 bolts, finally remove the box. Take a flap disk or wire wheel or whatever and clean that area of the frame.

Step 3 drill holes. I cut out the template included with my bracket kit, then cut out the 3 holes for the original bolts. I installed the 3 original bolts in the paper template and then put that on the frame in the 3 holes. My template was now located exactly where it needed to be(well close enough for my fabrication standards). Once the template was located I took a punch and marked the center of the new holes. Then removed the template and drilled the 4 new holes. Once the holes were drilled I took 4 bolts and bolted the bracket on tight. Welded it in a few places so it would stay. It sucks holding up a heavy box and the bracket all while trying to get a bolt started, just make it easier. Once the bracket was welded I bolted on the box.


Step 4 connect the input shafts. I used the 1985 input shaft. It is round down by the box and then goes into a double D shape farther up. I cut the shaft just before the round part changed. This tube ID is pretty close to the OD of the stock steering shaft and will slip over it. I held the new input shaft up to the box and took note of how much I needed to trim off of the old shaft. I then did the trimming. Took the box off, slipped the new input shaft over the old one and reinstalled the box, tightening down the spline joint to the box. Now is the time to make sure its all straight. I used a bungee cord to the seat to keep the steering wheel straight. I then rotated the steering box all the way one direction, then counted the turns it took to get all the way to the other direction. Splitting the difference puts the box in the middle of its travel. Once this is done I welded the shafts together.

Step 4, pump and plumbing. For my application I used and aftermarket low driver side SBC pump mount because that is where I like my pumps. Your setup will depend on engine and pump brackets uses. I marked where I wanted to drill a 2.5 in hole in the inner fender liner. then ran the hoses through this hole and connected them up. Be sure to use a grommet to keep hoses away from sharp metal sides of the hole.



Step 5, paint and enjoy. Only do this step if you feel like it.


You can use a steering box form 1968 to 1986 C series truck. Just remember that they switched from standard to metric fittings in 1980. get a hose to match your box, the pump can be converted either way by swapping the pressure fitting out for the one you need.

[padresag]

and you did that all in 2 hours? or was it 2 hours just installing the s box?
ron

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by padresag

and you did that all in 2 hours? or was it 2 hours just installing the s box?
ron

2 hours from start of removing the old box to connecting the hose on the new box. Granted my power steering pump was already installed on the engine prior to dropping it in and I already had all the parts sitting in a pile in the garage, so that saved some time. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and a metal fabricator by hobby so I'm pretty comfortable cutting stuff up and sticking it back together.

[padresag]

that is not what it says in your steps 1 - 5. you told that fellow that it took 2 hours to do the conversion. to me that would mean wheels on the ground to wheels back on the ground.
I have been pricing my own work out for over the last 40 years. one has to be realistic on what it takes to do the complete job
ron

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by padresag

that is not what it says in your steps 1 - 5. you told that fellow that it took 2 hours to do the conversion. to me that would mean wheels on the ground to wheels back on the ground.
I have been pricing my own work out for over the last 40 years. one has to be realistic on what it takes to do the complete job
ron

well considering my truck doesn't have tires or exhaust it wont be driving much. but if I had those things and we are splitting seconds about MX times. The act of jacking the truck up, placing the jack stand, taking off the tire, then putting it back on, removing the jack stand, and lowering the truck adds maybe 10-15 min to my previous maintenance time. I didn't really feel that I needed to be that detailed though.

[70cst]

Ok ... lets settle down folks. Thanks