Tilt Gurus need some help

[randy500]

I'm trying to figure out how to use that tool, from the lower end of the column to extract the shift tube? Whats it hook onto?

Anyway, I have never needed anything to extract the shift tube from the bowl, the fit is not loose but not tight either, the shift tube is just tubing which has a formed flat slot where the shift bowl attaches. From the top I spray WD-40 in the area to lube it and loosen the old grease up a bit.
Then I tap the shift tube flush to the shifter bowl with a brass drift.
I tap it the rest of the way out with a hammer on the shift arm at the lower end of the column while guiding the arm out of the slot in the steering column tube.
I have never encountered a problem tapping the shift tube out except for not guiding the lower lever through the slot opening.

[randy500]

Ok, I have been thinking about that shift bowl puller tool, J 22551, I understand why its useful now.
It is used to extract the shift bowl from the shift tube from the steering wheel side while the column is installed in the vehicle, would be useful because when the column is installed you cant tap on the shifter arm inside the engine compartment to get the shift tube free from the shifter bowl.
Unless the bowl was very stuck to the shifter tube and corroded you would never need the tool for bench disassembly of the column.

[72tutone]

Yep, that is correct. Per the manual -
Remove the shift tube assem bly using Tool J - 22551
(fig. 28). Insert the hooked end of the tool into the
notch in the shift tube just below the shift lever
housing key. Pilot the sleeve over the threaded end
of the tool and into the upper end of the shift tube.
Force the shift tube out of the housing by turning
the nut onto the tool. If the shift tube is not completely free when the nut is bottomed on the threads, complete the removal by hand.



It also states -
CAUTION: Do Not hammer or pull on the shift tube during removal. On column shiftmodels, guide the lower shift lever through the slotted opening in the column to prevent damage to the tube or column

I guess you are removing it just fine without it. My column is not installed at the moment. It looks like also you need tool - J - 22549

Carefully install the shift tube into the lower end of the column (make sure the foam seal is at the lower end of the shift tube). Align the keyway in the tubewith the key in the shift lever housing and complete
installation of the shift tube using Tool J - 22549

[randy500]

CAUTION: Do Not hammer or pull on the shift tube during removal.
On column shiftmodels, guide the lower shift lever through the slotted opening in the column to prevent damage to the tube or column

This is important, when tapping on the shift tube you can smash the slots where the clip goes to retain the shift bowl to the shift tube, or peen over the shift tube which will prevent removal. You should probably just tap out the shift tube on the shift arm at the lower end while making sure it goes through the slot.
And I have hammered away on the shift tube while it was not in the slotted opening preventing it from coming out....

[randy500]

Here is my written notes from old memory of assembly and from taking apart 2 tilt columns last night. Order is very important on assembly, if you forget a part its a pain to take it apart to put it back in, everything on the column is a bit tricky and needs be in a certain order or other parts cant fit later because the parts you installed interfere.

Tilt Column Assembly

Assembly
1. Install grommets and floor grommet retainer on column tube.
2. Install lower column tube foam seal to column tube at lower end of column.
3. Insert shift tube from bottom into column tube
4. Install shifter bowl to shift tube

a. Install turn signal switch to upper bearing housing (ensure bearings are clean and lubed)
Slip turn signal switch wiring through shifter bowl (use a tie around the wire through shift bowl so the dangling bearing housing doesn’t flop around and prevents the weight of the bearing housing to allow the wiring to slide up into the clearance between the shift bowl and column tube creating interference)
b. Lube then slide shifter bowl onto shift tube while letting the bearing housing dangle with wiring between shift bowl and column tube

5. Install knuckle to column tube

a. Wavy washer over shift tube resting on shifter bowl (Lubricate)
b. Nut plate, pointy side to RH corner, with shifter arm to right. (verify this is correct orientation) over shift tube and under column housing.
c. Insert Flat washer over shift tube resting against nut plate (lubricate)
d. Install Retainer clip on shift tube against flat washer, opening of clip faces shifter arm
e. Install lower bearing in column outer tube supporting shift tube
f. Install 4 bolts through tilt knuckle into nut plate with Loctite

6. Insert steering shaft in shift tube, lubricate the end where it slides through lower bearing which has an O-ring inside of it.
7. Remove tie from turn signal wiring and slide bearing hosing over center shaft and Install pivot pins through bearing hosing into knuckle
8. Install steering shaft nylon lock nut using J22599 or a Snap-On ½” drive 165/16 chrome deep socket (flank drive). Preload bearing to specification.
9. Install outer column accouterments

a. Shift pointer, make sure it slides in and out of bowl easily, sand sides of pointer if clearance is needed.
b. Install shift pointer under indicator lens and then lens housing over indicator lens, attach assembly to column cover with 2 screws.
c. Install shifter arm, turn signal arm and flasher knob
d. Install Back up lights / Neutral safety switch

[randy500]

I assembled a column last night and will modify step 4 and 5...

While you are installing the shift bowl to shift tube, as the tube begins to go through the bowl you need to install the wavy washer and nut plate then continue driving the shift tube through the bowl until fully seated.

If you seat the shift tube in the bowl without installing the wavy washer and nut plate there is not enough clearance to install the nut plate so you have to install those pieces just as the shift tube begins to exit the bowl on the steering wheel side, then fully seat the bowl to the shift tube.

[robs71k5]

Step four Note that the nut plate four holes are countersunk and should be up when installing the nut plate which help to aid in aligning the holes when installing the knuckle.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by robs71k5

Step four Note that the nut plate four holes are countersunk and should be up when installing the nut plate which help to aid in aligning the holes when installing the knuckle.

Agreed and verified. When checking that I also noted the following...

The 4 holes in the nut plate form a horizontal rectangle and when installed correctly the lower holes are closer together than the upper ones. (when viewed from the steering wheel side.
The nut plate is also "flatter" from the stamping process on that side too.

[robs71k5]

Can I assume that the two multi position locks and springs for each one can be installed after the knuckle is installed and the pivot pins in the upper section assembled ? And same goes for the column tension spring With the twist cap to lock ? I've got this column all painted up nicely and have done a dry run to make sure it's assembled correctly .Some really good pics would be appreciated of the internal lever condition and the assembly of the two position locks that are significantly different from one another as mine did look like there was some wearing but couldn't determine the level of damage do to no illustrations of actual parts every thing looks great ! So going to grease it up and go for it I guess .

Only one thought left is directional switch that I rebuilt to eliminate the need for an adaptor. It doesn't click into left or Right hand on the bench test but that shouldn't matter and maybe even better that it doesn't have tension that will be eventually crack the new switch under the signal switch lever attach screw where they notoriously crack not to mention the light that's attached to my switch is a hard one to find unless someone can make a liar out of me before I reassemble

[randy500]

Post a picture of your turn signal switch and the worn tilt parts.

You should assemble the knuckle before installing it to be safe and there is no reason not to do it that way.

[robs71k5]

These are the two parts that have me a little concerned . The one with worn corners was at the short end of the lever actuator and was not seated properly and jammed so nothing moved but could move the column up or down but wouldn't lock into any of the positions .

[robs71k5]

Also not sure if these can be installed after the tilt pivot pins on each side are inserted . Also this larger tension spring (pictured below) appears to have a twist lock cap and possibly can install it after the pivot pins as well ?

[robs71k5]

The directional indicator switch I'm not really concerned to much with. Was just trying to keep the wire harness adaptor out of the picture but would be nice if one could purchase the complete OEM style horse shoe plug instead of that monster adaptor but I suppose I could just drill a hole in a non tilt column switch and mount that light on the non tilt directional switch . I beleive they are both the same otherwise .

[robs71k5]

Column is pretty much ready to assemble otherwise .may throw another bucket of grease at it and was also thinking of putting some locktight on the four fine thread bolts going into the nutplate where the notoriously went loose and he steering would wobble LOL .

[robs71k5]

Before and after picture.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by robs71k5

These are the two parts that have me a little concerned . The one with worn corners was at the short end of the lever actuator and was not seated properly and jammed so nothing moved but could move the column up or down but wouldn't lock into any of the positions .

Is the pin messed up that those ride on? I usually don't find problems with those. Once you put it back together you can verify the operation and correct anything.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by robs71k5

Also not sure if these can be installed after the tilt pivot pins on each side are inserted . Also this larger tension spring (pictured below) appears to have a twist lock cap and possibly can install it after the pivot pins as well ?

Yes you can do the spring and must do it after installing the pivot housing.

Install the pivot housing using the 2 pins, operate the tilt lever to get it over the knuckle tilt position stop pins, verify tilt operation with tilt lever, once that is all sorted out.
Insert the spring through the pivot housing onto the aluminum knuckle over the protrusion in it, grease it before install.
Then put the cap over the spring, use a large phillips screwdriver to push the cap in and turn it to lock it in place.

The turn signal switch should be routed through the pivot housing before it is installed. It will be dangling when you install that large spring.

[randy500]

If that second picture is of your actual column you do have a non-tilt turn signal switch on it. the red fixed 4 way flasher knob identifies it. You will have to install the tin cover over the turn signal switch with the turn signal switch bolts removed then install the cover and switch together. I don't recall if that style of switch has the "nub" for the shift indicator light. Regular car style turn signal switches of the same era do have the "nub" so all you have to do is install the light housing and route the wire.

I wanted to see your turns signal switch to see if something was missing or assembled wrong. Wondering why it doesn't lock in position.

[randy500]

I notice the following about your column.

It is missing the firewall rubber boot and retainer.
Its missing the lower bearing retainer and clip.
Its missing the shift linkage grommet and metal insert in the grommet.

The lever where the trans linkage connects looks bent up, use a large crescent wrench to twist it straight, then a hammer and dolly to make it flat.

Tip that most people don't know....the shift pointer installs under the indicator lens so put in the pointer first and make sure it moves in and out smoothly, sand the sides if needed, then install the lens over the pointer tang, then the housing cover and screws.

[robs71k5]

Sorry for the delay. Been working this in between health issues but determination is winning out LoL . And thanks to you all for your keen sences. Much appreciated.
The signal switch is truely bastertised for sure . I don't plan on using this one. However it is my plan to avoid using those adaptor wiring connections now that I know how to remove and reinstall the horse shoe plug and can remove signal switch with out having to dissassemble the column. I kept this one in play only because it has the light for the gear selector mode . Incidently I did notice the part I removed from the signal switch was different in that it was threaded and could screw in a much different flasher knob than the red one you pointed out. I've looked on line for an authentic signal switch but they all seem to have that ugly adaptor . I just would rather not have non nos equipment installed in my ride
That part of the tilt mechanism is not really that bad looking and I did have a reply to this end already from an earlier post but here it is again for this crew .the more the marrier . The part on the left shows worn and rounded out corners . Also not 100% which one is in witch position on the column although I did note where they where individually removed from as cockeyed as they where but could'nt guarantee they where in they're correct position to begin with. Sorry for the rambling on here but just trying to have all the facts present

[robs71k5]

Also just noting concerns that the shift articulating arm is in fact bent now that you have drawn my attention to this matter I shall endeavor to remedy the issue with great anticipation and many thanks again for attention to the issue . Also not to disconclude attention to this missing boot at the bottom . I was going to buy a new one before doing my final assembly. Oh for those that are interested in the horseshoe plug removal it was really quite easy . Just need to build a shim to push down either side of each terminal and pull the wire out of the plug x 8 wires . I used a couple smart key lock keys down each side and pulled the wires right out of the plastic housing taking a picture so as as not to mix them up on the way in again. A proud moment for me stumbling this trick LOL

[randy500]

Lisle tool.company has a tool to remove wiring connectors from the plug that has 6 sides on a hex the tool fits a lot of connectors including the turn signalnswitch with a double end

[randy500]

I think that takes 2 tools to release the tabs, right?

[Tdrcreyn4]

Subbed

[robs71k5]

Yes two tools. One down each side of each connector