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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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I-6 out and a 454 in.
Guys, I have a 1967 C/30 it has a I-6 with a 4-speed transmission. I haven't done this before but I'm sure if I remover the 6 the 454 will "bolt in"?
I was a little concerned about the mid-mount trans but it looks like it will fit with the propper frame mounts. Any advice would be appreciated. I'll have the 6 out by the weekend, I was just making sure there weren't any surprises. Thanks |
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#2 | |
Senior Member
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 7,255
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Quote:
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Orland Park Il
Posts: 2,041
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I have v8 mounts if they would work for you, I also have the squarebody style.
Pm sent
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68 GMC C3500 Longhorn DRW 67 Chevy C10 LWB 90 Mustang Gt 90 Mustang Notchback |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 6,421
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Sending you a PM.
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#5 |
Account Suspended
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
The 454 should fit where the I6 was but the engine sits very close to the firewall. If you have the 250 I6, the motor mounts on the 454 will land where the I6 frame mounts are and everything should bolt up.
I think the engines look silly that far back but they were mounted like that in the 4wd trucks (no factory BB 4wd were made though). You should be able to make the clutch linkage work with the ball that threads into the block just below the head, it works that way on a small block and pretty sure it can be done with a big block too. The radiator hoses are pretty long so custom ones will be needed. You can probably make a small block ran shroud come close to the fan with a fan spacer. If it were me I would buy all the factory big block parts for the install, its much, much cleaner install and all fits together nice. And it looks better too. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Lake Placid florida
Posts: 599
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I pulled my 250 and replaced it with a small block. You most likely have some of the same issues I did. I have the 4 speed as well.
Major issues I had: I had to get custom brackets for my powersteering and a/c. Hopefully your 454 already has them, they were a pain. And I had to do some grinding there as well. As stated above, the engine will sit quite far back. I had to take the cap off the HEI to get the engine in. I was tempted to not use the I6 motor mount location, but that would be a bunch of work getting the driveline to match, so it's the best option. I originally had a clutch fan and long spacer to reach the factory v8 fan shroud. Bad idea, the combo turned out to be to heavy and tore up my water pump shaft which destroyed my belts and caused the spacer to move (twist). I was lucky the engine was at idle in the driveway at the time. I changed to electric fans. The clutch linkage bolt to the block will be needed as stated above. I cut off the bottom lever on the z-bar and re-welded it in a new location to get it to clear the headers, you should check your exhaust before putting the z-bar back on. Also, a new issue, the linkage rod to the clutch fork (lower) slid towards the engine a couple of days ago when I pushed in the clutch because I had changed the angle. I had to move it back so that I could shift and get home, a temporary fix. So I'm going to have to figure that out before I can drive it regularly. Biggest problem by far, and one I'm still dealing with, is that the starter bolts to the bell housing. This puts the starter quite low, and there are not good ones out there that you can get that will fit the new set up. I currently have the I-6 starter on there, but it's so close to the exhaust that I'm having hot start issues. A respected member here has told me that the best solution is to get a high torque starter and change the nose cone. I haven't done that yet due to the cost. A heat shield and 2 guage battery cables did not solve the problem. If I were you, I would look into this before the swap, save yourself my pain. I had issues getting the right hoses. For me, the answer turned out to be a carefully bent coathanger and a nice guy at the parts store that let me go through all his hoses until I found one that would work. I found a lower radiator hose from a 2010 Ford Sport Trac that worked perfect for my upper hose. Go figure. I have a generic hose on the bottom. If you have any questions, let me know I can try to help. Or just check out my threads, lots of answered questions and pictures. Good luck. Last edited by dave`12; 03-30-2017 at 11:21 AM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 180
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I am looking for an add on pulley for the main crank if it has one I would be interested in purchasing
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Ok guys, thanks for the feedback. I was doing some checking after I got the 6 out and it looks too close to the firewall. I know there are different engine mounts, are there different mid mounts for the trans? There doesn't seem to be a way to use a traditional transmission cross member and delete the mid-mounts that I can tell.
thanks |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
To be more clear, I guess I am asking if the mid-mount transmission mounts can be moved forward? and if anyone has done it?
thanks guys |
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#10 | |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Quote:
There are some posts showing them side by side for comparison. |
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#11 |
Account Suspended
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Z bar engine bracket for big block, pics in this thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645246 |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Lake Placid florida
Posts: 599
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
There are 67 C10's out there with big blocks, I think it will fit using the I-6 mounting location.
Is the big block longer than the small block? I personally put in a small block and they absolutely fit. You can mount the engine further forward but one thing leads to another. The transmission moving forward, driveshaft lengthening, shift linkage, clutch linkage, all kinds of small stuff to deal with. Last edited by dave`12; 03-30-2017 at 05:41 PM. |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Thanks for the additional help guys, I'm going to just buy the v8 mid-mount and big block frame stands to make this a better deal. if anyone has the pivot ball and or any clutch linkage let me know.
thanks |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Newport Heights, CA
Posts: 1,000
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I'm doing a similar engine swap. I'm in the parts finding stage and I'm about ready to start the swap. I would suggest placing a WTB ad in the parts for sale section. You can look at my build thread to see the parts that I've collected.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=712697
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Glenn 1960 Burro Corvair/VW Buggy - Factory made in Santa Ana, Ca 1929 Ford Model A Roadster - traditional pre-war banger hot rod |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Thanks for the tip, and the link to your build thread.
JM |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Here are a couple of pictures of my engine and my truck. I used 2003 GM wheels on front and rear, I had to change the studs front and back to make them work properly. |
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#17 |
Account Suspended
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Your engine looks like it has a good chance of fitting based on the placement of the PS pump, the pump could work or be very close to not hitting the frame rail. Are you using an electric fan?
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#18 |
Account Suspended
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Second look, PS is probably a bit low, show us the ex manifolds if your using them.
4spd right? If its 127" wheel base I have a 4spd driveshaft for a 3/4 ton, should work. I guess I could re-box the stuff you already bought and put it in there too. |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I will post more pictures later
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#20 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Berne IN
Posts: 3,229
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Nice project & shop! Looks like you have a jib crane? Those are handy- we have a bridge crane in our shop
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Here are those pics, thanks for the compliments on the project and my shop. |
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#22 |
Account Suspended
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Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 6,873
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
I saw that crane too and the nice floor. Now I see you have a really nice engine stand too, looks like the snap-on one with the gear drive to turn it over, those are heavy duty, I have one too but never use it because its so wide and bulky, great for big blocks though.
Exhaust manifolds are stock type so your good to go. I hear Pypes headpipes DGU 20S are close to fitting our trucks, think drivers side needs some fitting, other side should fit. |
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#23 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 7,255
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Nice mill!
__________________
Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Jasper, In
Posts: 109
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Re: I-6 out and a 454 in.
Thanks, the engine stand is actually a NAPA brand, but it is a little bulky.
I built the jib crane, the post is made from a 3/8 wall underground gas line. |
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