Show me your door speaker hole Repairs

[nevada]

my 72 C20 had 5 inch circular holes cut into the lower door panels for speakers....I yanked the speakers. when I get my new old school replacement radio, I think I'll just do the original center dash speaker which will suit me fine.
Now, I have these big holes to patch. was thinking of getting some sheet metal and cutting circles half inch bigger than holes, paint to match and screw them on to cover holes.
What you guys done to repair / patch the holes??

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by nevada

my 72 C20 had 5 inch circular holes cut into the lower door panels for speakers....I yanked the speakers. when I get my new old school replacement radio, I think I'll just do the original center dash speaker which will suit me fine.
Now, I have these big holes to patch. was thinking of getting some sheet metal and cutting circles half inch bigger than holes, paint to match and screw them on to cover holes.
What you guys done to repair / patch the holes??

I put my midrange drivers in my door holes.
Posted via Mobile Device

[custom10nut]

If yo go with the patch rout, use the same gauge metal (this could come from a donor door that is too far gone for anything else), trace it out, but leave four or five tabs on the patch to help with welding it in, then tack weld all around the patch, taking your time and going from side to side (this help prevent warping), lead the seams and sand it smooth. Once done, you'll be the only one who know that the hole were there.

[NorCalC20LWB]

In the same boat as you, 2 large holes for speakers in each door. I bought pre cut pieces of carpet from Classic Parts. Since I don't have the welding skills to bring the doors back to original, carpet seemed like the next best thing. Haven't put them on yet, so no pics.

[46stude]

I've got the big holes cut in my doors, too. After contemplating what it takes to repair them, I decided to just get a set of speakers & run 'em in the doors, I've still got my tank behind the seat, so that rules out speakers back there. While the sound quality might not be the best in the doors, I didn't see any reason to reinvent the wheel. Factory resto- yeah, you gotta patch 'em. Otherwise, ask yourself if it's really worth the extra hassle.

[Andy4639]

My way of fixing them! I made my own door panels to cover them up.

[nevada]

you have a good point, I asked one welder and he didnt want to try for fear it would warp the metal. I just want it to look clean, so perhaps theres a way to recess the speaker into the door 1/4 inch and then screw a perforated color matched plate over the hole? my luck the speaker would rattle and buzz...LOL.

[CastIron]

I personally wouldn't cut a hole in the doors (or dash) for speakers, but I'm going to agree with the guys who say if the hole is already there, put a speaker in it.

[mitchell72]

Appreciate the thread, I have the same issue plus the radio that was cut out. This is the worst area of my truck for me.

[74baggedbug]

Had some lower panels made and the guy who painted my roof painted them to match..

[LS short box]

Just welded my speaker holes up. 6x9 size holes.

PO must of used an air chisel to cut the hole so I cut the hole square and used similar thickness sheet metal for the patch.

Just take your time and move around with small welds. Also when grinding move around so you don't put too much heat in the metal.

[demian5]

Not doors, but dash...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=730491

[nevada]

Oh Wow! your problem was a much bigger problem than mine, guess I shouldn't complain, nice job on the repairs.

[67ChevyRedneck]

The right way

Originally Posted by nevada

you have a good point, I asked one welder and he didnt want to try for fear it would warp the metal. I just want it to look clean, so perhaps theres a way to recess the speaker into the door 1/4 inch and then screw a perforated color matched plate over the hole? my luck the speaker would rattle and buzz...LOL.

What kind of "welder" would turn that job down? I'm a freakin novice and didn't warp it.







With the inner piece cut out, it's super easy to clean up and rust proof the door bottoms!

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

The right way
What kind of "welder" would turn that job down? I'm a freakin novice and didn't warp it.

Originally Posted by custom10nut

If yo go with the patch rout, use the same gauge metal (this could come from a donor door that is too far gone for anything else), trace it out, but leave four or five tabs on the patch to help with welding it in, then tack weld all around the patch, taking your time and going from side to side (this help prevent warping), lead the seams and sand it smooth. Once done, you'll be the only one who know that the hole were there.

You guys are getting me enthused, I would like to learn exactly this sort of thing. How do I become a freakin novice? I have no welding equipment and no knowledge of welding at all, other than I have heard there are several types of welding. How would I learn what tools and supplies to buy for hobby use, and learn to use them safely? Is a task like this something I should be able to take lessons for, and learn in a few hours? Where could I get lessons? Is it several hundred dollars of equipment and supplies I would need?

[GASoline71]

No lessons here and I have done all of my own fab work and rust repair in my cab. You can check my build thread. I didn't cheap out when I bought a MIG welder and also have an auto-darkening helmet. My bro-in-law is a fabricator and he has always told me, "With a good wire feed gas/no-gas MIG and an auto-darkening helmet... a monkey can weld panels."

I sir... are a monkey. It can be done.

Gary

[Hubscrub]

On the wife's 67 sitting out in the yard one day lol. They made a terrible hole when n they put these in. Got to patch the radio hole too. Sorry no all the way finished pics.

[67ChevyRedneck]

You can warp metal pretty easy. I would definitely spend some hours practicing on crap you don't care about. Never use Flux on sheetmetal, way easier to warp it, use the MIG function with gas. Curves and bodylines are "stronger" than flat areas and less likely to warp. Never do more than a tack in an area until it cools.

It's not cheap... my welder was around $500, helmet $75, cart and various welding tools, wire, etc, probably another $200, and it was $225 to "buy" my tank, then it's $40 to get it refilled. I bought my Lincoln from Lowes because I had like $250 in gift cards.

My recent project in the background, chopping down a longbed to a shortie.

[mcbassin]

I used sheet metal and just fit it to the hole. You can see the patch HERE about half way down the page.

[dmjlambert]

Thanks guys. After the tack welds all around, what is the rest of the process like? I see pictures of a bunch of tack welds with gaps between them, and then suddenly the final pictures after the sanding. I suppose it may be what custom10nut calls "lead the seams," is that right? What is that about? Does it use the same machine and wire, and any special technique there? What sort of machine and accessories do you use to sand it flat? What is used to fill in the remaining ripples after you sand and before you paint?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Thanks guys. After the tack welds all around, what is the rest of the process like? I see pictures of a bunch of tack welds with gaps between them, and then suddenly the final pictures after the sanding. I suppose it may be what custom10nut calls "lead the seams," is that right? What is that about? Does it use the same machine and wire, and any special technique there? What sort of machine and accessories do you use to sand it flat? What is used to fill in the remaining ripples after you sand and before you paint?

My first step is to knock the excess weld down with a cutoff wheel or a stone type grinding wheel. Then I like to use a 3M sanding disk HERE. I start with a 60 grit then finish with an 80-120 grit. Keep in mind, not to let your metal get too hot while grinding. It's expensive, but change your disk when it gets dull. Once it's dull it will heat the metal quickly.

Next I use a mill bastard file to knock down the high spots before actually block sanding the metal with a fresh piece of sandpaper.
Then I sand the surface with my DA sander using 120 grit.

Please check out this thread from my friend Nuke1 :HERE

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Thanks guys. After the tack welds all around, what is the rest of the process like? I see pictures of a bunch of tack welds with gaps between them, and then suddenly the final pictures after the sanding. I suppose it may be what custom10nut calls "lead the seams," is that right? What is that about? Does it use the same machine and wire, and any special technique there? What sort of machine and accessories do you use to sand it flat? What is used to fill in the remaining ripples after you sand and before you paint?

I keep on doing spot welds until I have a SOLID weld. LOTS of people only tack it in then smear bondo over it, not a fan of that... That said, I still seam seam the back of the weld to prevent water getting in any pinholes from the back side.

Good luck, Rg

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

I keep on doing spot welds until I have a SOLID weld. LOTS of people only tack it in then smear bondo over it, not a fan of that... That said, I still seam seam the back of the weld to prevent water getting in any pinholes from the back side.

Good luck, Rg

I agree with Rg, Make sure you alternate your tack welds from side to side. Letting it cool adequately. The heat is what will cause warping.

[nevada]

finished speaker hole repairs.

[68bowtie]

Nicely done!