Removing steering coupler assembly to replace rag joint

[vetnat]

Also, in case you haven't opened up the package for your rebuild kit yet, it does have instructions. I couldn't see the instruction sheet till I opened the package. I used tx firefighter's thread and the instruction sheet, they are complimentary to each other. However, in post #23 of that thread, a discrepancy is brought up about how to install the sleeve nut, I followed the instruction sheet... And in post #24, the question on how to remove the rag joint from the steering shaft is never answered, so mine stayed on the shaft...

[Praxiss454]

Thanks for the pics and write up. At least when I get into it I will know what to expect. I don't have air tools, so after grinding the rivets, if they don't hammer out I might try drilling. Gonna try to do this with the shaft still in the truck to begin with. (Because I don't know how to drop it, but I might have to figure that out soon).

[DPowers]

The shaft is not difficult to remove- just takes some time.

[Praxiss454]

Okay so I got the grinder this morning, and got started. After removing the wheel for easier access, I ground down the rivet heads on both the top and bottom sides. Once I could see the difference in metal on the face (e.g. see the little circle area of the stud), I got a punch and 5 lb engineering hammer and got to tapping. At first I didn't think I was making much progress, but I kept going, and sure enough, tapped them out. Once the bottom side of the coupler fell to the ground, it was easy to remove the remainder. The stuff is soaking in Oshpo to treat the surface rust, and I'll be reassembling tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks all for the help.

tl;dr version: It is possible to remove a riveted steering coupler while the shaft is still in situ using an angle grinder, 5 lb hammer, and punch.

[vetnat]

Awesome! Take a picture of your finished result for me, when you get there.

[Praxiss454]

I painted the loose coupler pieces w/ matte black just to add some additional rust protection, and then attempted to button things back up. The instructions were not very clear on the Dorman 31000 package, and I'm left with a couple extra pieces. Not sure if I used all the right ones. Here's what I have.

I actually think maybe I do need to use the two other posts in my picture for a closer match to original sizes.

I brushed the steering shaft with Ospho but haven't done anything else to treat or refurb it. Not sure I'm gonna, since I have no interest in dropping the thing.

[vetnat]

Hmm. You make a good point there, I didn't realize the other set of posts were "extras". I used the same ones you did. I haven't got mine all the way back together because of the interference between the clamp bolt and one of the through bolts. I interpreted the instructions putting the pin in the opposite side you did, but don't think it matters. I don't think the shaft on my steering box has a "flat spot" that needs to be lined up properly. I don't really want to drive out the pin to use it on the other side... Thanks for posting photos.

[Praxiss454]

I kinda tore the instructions when opening them so I didn't really follow them except for what I could tell from the picture. Looking at the original I think I'll swap out the posts. Not sure about the pin location, and will dry fit this all before finalizing.

[Praxiss454]

Alright guys. I'm stumped. How the hell do I tighten the nut on the pitman arm? When I spin it, the whole damn threaded shaft (the one w/ the cotter pin hole) spins w/ the nut. I lubed the thing up w/ PB Blaster, still can only get it a few threads up before the whole thing spins.

[vince1]

Push it into the taper and use an impact gun? C-clamp?

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by vince1

Push it into the taper and use an impact gun? C-clamp?

Yeah maybe if I clamp it and get some pressure on it it won't spin. I don't think it even goes more than half way up the cotter pin hole though now, so not sure how that's going to work out.

[Praxiss454]

I ended up getting the fastener on there. What worked was clamping the lower arm up to the frame, which must have put pressure to hold the shaft in place. Took a while. Now I'm finding I basically have to re-assemble the rag joint in person, which defeated the purpose of assembling everything off the truck. I probably should have put it onto the steering box while the box was on the ground.