proportioning valves??

[MASTERBrian]

Getting ready to buy my master/booster for my 60 burb with front discs and rear drums. I have about everything else setup....I'm not 100% positive which booster/master I'll be running yet, but I'll likely figure that out tomorrow.

My question is do I just buy a proportioning valve for the same year/model as the master or how do you decide? Does it make much difference??? The local parts stores don't seem to carry them.

[racecougar]

Either buy a prop valve for disc/drum, or better yet, an adjustable valve. I went with a Wilwood 260-11179.

[slepysal]

I used a disc/drum prop valve that I got from CPP and paired it up with a 1977 Corvette ( disc/drum) master cylinder .

[damnyankee36]

I went with an all new master cylinder/booster/combo valve combination from Classic Performance Products, CPP. Excellent value at $300 I think.

[64shortbox]

I went super cheap. I bought the master cylinder bracket from Captainfab I later went to the local self serve wrecking yard on 1/2 off days and bought the Vacuum Booster, Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve and ALL the hard lines off a 73 C-10. I did have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve in the 1973 location and the hard lines fit like they were made for the truck slight very slight tweaking. I use the master cylinder as a core for a rebuilt one & I just used the vacuum booster as is with a fresh coat of paint and cleaned the brake lines & proportioning valve and used them as was after cleaning. Everything works great!

[damnyankee36]

True, if you don't want to go new, 64shortbox did it right. Get everything from one verifiable operating vehicle that has a disc/drum combination.

[rvrfoot]

This is mine.

[Victweezy]

I like the adjustable proportioning valves from SSBC. I don't use the brake light function so that gets plugged to allow for easier adjustment. They are about a hundred bucks, but I put value on being able to stop. Like mentioned earlier the wilwood stuff is good too.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0730pl

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Victweezy

I like the adjustable proportioning valves from SSBC. I don't use the brake light function so that gets plugged to allow for easier adjustment. They are about a hundred bucks, but I put value on being able to stop. Like mentioned earlier the wilwood stuff is good too.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a0730pl

I might have to lean this way, they have super ready to read instructions!

I was about to go booster/master from cpp to match my brakes but they are about two weeks out just to ship and I don't want to wait that long.

I've also considered the salvage route. They quoted me $80 for master/booster/prop valve, but in the end if only $100ish more, I prefer to work with new. So far I'm basically looking at everything else on brakes new, why scrimp here..

[slepysal]

Here is a picture of mine . I had to go with an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster
due to space issues with my 6 cylinder

[MASTERBrian]

I'm debating if I go with a dual 8" as well. That's what CPP recommended, or maybe I should say sells for my '60.

[verdell]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

I'm debating if I go with a dual 8" as well. That's what CPP recommended, or maybe I should say sells for my '60.

I'd go with the dual diaphragm 8" also..

[werito1]

I want to add a power booster and master cylinder to my '66 Chevy C10 I'll probably get the one from CPP with the mounting bracket, but I need to find a shop that will install it. You guys know a shop in the LA or San Bernardino area that does that kind of work? I would really appreciate it, Thanks guys.

[Lugnutz65]

I'm not done yet but I'm using a good condition 1995 Blazer MC and booster with included proportioning valve.
Blazer was disc/drum so it should be fine. I used Captainfab firewall bracket. Had to change the air cleaner to a smaller 9" because I have an inline 6 and the booster was too big to allow room for the factory air cleaner.

[MASTERBrian]

If anyone has captain fab's compatible boosters in 8" if love a pm. Won't ask for it to be posted, because not sure if he wants it out without an order, but I can't figure out where my sheet went. Time to dig back through papers.

***EDIT....scratch that, just found it!

[MASTERBrian]

Just had O'reilly order me in a Master/Booster from a 74 C10. It came up when I looked for '73 like 64Shortbox used, but didn't cross with anything until '74, but appears same as just booster for the '73, which is used on '74's and up as well....interesting. $109.99+$11 core.

If anyone cares, it's a 10.85" Dual Diaphragm with a 3/8-16 in stud, which hopefully is same as my brake pedal.

The brand is BrakeBest, hope they are Good, Amazon carry's A1 Cardone, but those aren't good reviews, more expensive and I'm having repeated issues with their throttle body on my '03 Burb, so I'll pass on A1!! Lifetime warranty as well....hopefully I never need it.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

I went super cheap. I bought the master cylinder bracket from Captainfab I later went to the local self serve wrecking yard on 1/2 off days and bought the Vacuum Booster, Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve and ALL the hard lines off a 73 C-10. I did have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve in the 1973 location and the hard lines fit like they were made for the truck slight very slight tweaking. I use the master cylinder as a core for a rebuilt one & I just used the vacuum booster as is with a fresh coat of paint and cleaned the brake lines & proportioning valve and used them as was after cleaning. Everything works great!

Can I ask how you attached to brake pedal? Did you just find a coupling nut and connect the two or something else? Any chance you have a photo of install at the pedal/booster junction?

[MASTERBrian]

I read checking ssbc to look what difference was in their valves. I'm a bit curious if I should without doubt go with valve that controls front AND back out just a single that controls the back. I'm passing on calling them tomorrow as well....

[64shortbox]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Can I ask how you attached to brake pedal? Did you just find a coupling nut and connect the two or something else? Any chance you have a photo of install at the pedal/booster junction?

MASTERBrian,
Ask and you shall receive. Yes I did use a fine thread coupling nut. I originally went with a hunk of allthread rod but decided I didn't like the thought of a grade 2 hunk of allthread working my brakes and bought a 3/8" grade 8 bolt, cut off the head and threaded the other end to match. I bought the bolt, coupling nut and Heimend from Orchard Supply Hardware BUT Speedway Automotive has a complete kit for about the same price with no cutting & taping on your part. I can't find it at the moment but I'll look. Since I also used a vacuum booster from a C-10 truck I had to cut off the eye on the end of its rod and run a 3/8 - 24 die down that too. Aside from being notoriously CHEAP the reason I kept with ALL factory GM stuff is if I needed a caliper, master cylinder, brake hose etc., is if I needed say a master cylinder at 3 PM on a Sunday afternoon I know I could get one the same day. Well at least out here in Communist California I could. I did buy CPP's 2 1/2" drop spindles & their 6 lug Disc rotors but other than that everything is all factory GM. BUT if I knew now what I didn't know then is I would have used a Dual Diaphragm vacuum booster from a early Chevy Astro Van or equivalent but he single diaphragm booster has plenty of room on my 350 motor.

Of course I also HAD to graft in a Disc Brake pedal off a 73 C-10 and a suspended gas pedal to match.

[MASTERBrian]

Sounds like we are going a very similar direction, but I should say you have me a bit worried when you say you had to graft in a disc brake pedal....what's the difference? The angle of the pedal or height or what? I've looked at someone's post regarding that, but haven't done anything yet.

My booster will be here tomorrow, so I'll know for certain what I have when it gets here, but I think it's just threaded on the end, so that should help. I'll still look at speedway, just in case. From what I read about my booster is it is a dual diagram booster, so I'm glad I went that direction.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Sounds like we are going a very similar direction, but I should say you have me a bit worried when you say you had to graft in a disc brake pedal....what's the difference? The angle of the pedal or height or what? I've looked at someone's post regarding that, but haven't done anything yet.
...

Here are some pics of what 64shortbox did, I am using his idea on mine:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=666226&page=5

[64shortbox]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Sounds like we are going a very similar direction, but I should say you have me a bit worried when you say you had to graft in a disc brake pedal....what's the difference? The angle of the pedal or height or what? I've looked at someone's post regarding that, but haven't done anything yet.

Sorry I misled you when I said I HAD to modify my brake pedal. Your factory brake will work fine. As the Master Chief implied - I modified my brake pedal only because I wanted to. In my mind I HAD to show that my truck now had Power Disc Brakes so that's why I modified my brake pedal to the big power brake pedal. I modified mine just like Master Chief did but I stole the idea from doobiebro and I stole the suspended gas pedal idea from markeb01. That's what I like about this site everyone is so willing to share their ideas and even write up how to's. What little I've learned (mostly from others here) I'm also willing to share. Sorry for any confusion on my part.

[MASTERBrian]

Just picked up this booster....does the factory mount bracket need to come OFF our do they mount to captain fabs brackets? It appears welded on...

[rvrfoot]

Do you have a picture?

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by rvrfoot

Do you have a picture?

Yep. I actually thought this would be great because it has the threaded end and the attachment that might go to my pedal.