'67 K10 swb big block "The Mutt"

[RRR18]

I had same problem with those led lights from lmc. My problem was the flasher. I called United Pacific (brand of led) they told me to use the flasher with the ground strap on it. I got United Pacific brand flasher at Summit and poof worked just perfect.

[JMD]

Originally Posted by RRR18

I had same problem with those led lights from lmc. My problem was the flasher. I called United Pacific (brand of led) they told me to use the flasher with the ground strap on it. I got United Pacific brand flasher at Summit and poof worked just perfect.

Yup that's exactly what I ended up doing to solve the problem. I called United Pacific and the first thing they asked was whether or not I was using their brand of flasher. I was skeptical at first because I had tried an LED flasher with a ground strap already (3 different ones actually) but there must be something special about their flasher.

[JMD]

Went for a 50 mile drive with no issues the other day, man what a great feeling that is! Not quite ready to post "finished" pictures, but I thought this one was kind of cool. Ignore all the smashed bugs on the grill and the absence of wipers.

[kehstr]

how much did you slide the motor forward from the factory small block location to get the big block valve covers to clear the firewall?

[JMD]

1.5" all together. Plenty of room between the firewall and valve covers.

[JMD]

Originally Posted by StanleyRosiello

Badass rig man. With everybody going super low with these truck (to each his own... and I still love these trucks low or high) its refreshing to see a guy with his truck riding high. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks! Unfortunately I did have to scrub my idea of lifting it (for now anyway). Ran into too many clearance issues, and the wheels and tires I have just didn't look right with that much lift. To get it to look/run right with a 2.5" lift I'd be looking at spending at least another $2k which is out of the question.

Ended up getting my front springs de-arched 2" and removing the 2" lift blocks above the rear axle.

Also finished up the wood bed. I don't have any pictures of the final product yet, but here's a sneak peak. The wood is red oak from Mar-K and was "stained" with an acid wash before being coated with 4 layers of urethane. I'm very happy with how it turned out!

The most recent project was fixing the obnoxious transmission fluid leaks. The transfer case had a leaky rear output shaft seal and the Th350/Np205 adaptor was leaking as well which required removing the transfer case. That's a job I never want to do again...That thing is heavy! Definitely investing in a transmission jack if it ever needs to come out again.

[Devil Pup]

Nice looking truck. love that color

[68Gold/white]

Awesome!!!

Is that a factory color? Do you have the paint code?

[JMD]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

Awesome!!!

Is that a factory color? Do you have the paint code?

It isn't a factory color, but it's a very close match to 507 light blue. If you'd like I can get the exact code and brand from my paint guy.

I've been putting some serious miles on her over the last few days and I couldn't be happier! Averaging 10.2mpg

[deereboy8r]

JMD beautiful build and I also love that color nice job man!

[JMD]

Back under the knife! As expected, the TH350 didn't last and started slipping in 3rd gear. I tried dumping some of that lucas trans fix stuff in there with the hope that I could at least get another 1000 miles out of it. To my surprise it worked!... For about 100 miles. Then it got to the point where 3rd gear was completely gone and reverse started slipping as well, so I knew it was time for a rebuild.

In addition to the transmission issues the truck had also developed a serious engine oil leak. I've decided to pull the engine/trans/tcase and address all the issues while it is out of the truck rather than deal with crawling around underneath it on a creeper.

The plan is:
-Ditch the TH350 and rebuild a TH400
-Rebuild the NP205 to connect to the TH400
-Find/fix engine oil leak
-Address cooling issues (fan shroud)

If time and money permits, I'd really like to throw a little more aggressive cam at it and possibly some heads. I was dissapointed to find out the casting numbers for my heads match those for the poorest flowing heads that GM produced. Could explain why my truck falls on it's face after 3300 rpms.

[collin70k/20]

Not sure how I only seen this now but this is one of the nicest trucks I’ve seen on here man!

[JMD]

Originally Posted by collin70k/20

Not sure how I only seen this now but this is one of the nicest trucks I’ve seen on here man!

Thank you, I owe a lot of it to the experts on this forum.

I found a np205 that had a th400 adapter, unfortunately it also had a slip yoke rear output shaft and it was extremely beat up. Luckily the case, the adapter, and the 32 spline input shaft were all in good shape, and those were the only parts I needed.

[JMD]

Cleaned up the case and stuffed all the pieces back into it this weekend.

[JMD]

Out with the old and in with the new.

[JMD]

Was finally able to finish up rebuilding the TH400. It was a fairly simple process, now that I've done one I'm sure the next one will be a whole lot easier.

[JMD]

I'm waiting for Edelbrock to send me a replacement lifter since one of them had a pin hole in the side. In the mean time I stabbed the engine and trans in the truck. I also replaced the engine mounts with some poly ones from Energy Suspension. Unfortunately the engine sits a little lower now so the headers are hitting the frame rails. It's never easy...

[cornerstone]

Love the truck man, love it!

[my kids toy]

I sent you a PM

[JMD]

It’s been awhile since I’ve updated this but I’m happy to say that the truck is back on the road. The cam swap did not go well, this will be the last time I ever cheap out and go with a flat tappet cam. No matter what I tried I could not get the #6 intake lifter to spin. Not sure if it was a problem with the cam grind or if the lifter bore was messed up, but it immediately flattened a cam lobe.


So after some research I decided to stay with the edelbrock heads and go with a Howard’s roller cam, summit 1.7 roller rockers, and Manley pushrods. Seems to be a great combination so far, the truck is pretty peppy!

First couple pictures are the aftermath of the flat tappet lifter not spinning. I cut the oil filter open and found a bunch of nasty metal shavings.

[JMD]

Here’s the new rockers going in. WAY easier than trying to set lash on the old style crimp nuts

[JMD]

And a picture that my friends wife took from the cab of his ‘66 c10

[BDC1]

I just read the whole build from the start. You have a fantastic looking truck. I have a couple of questions.

How exactly did you move the drivetrain 1.5" forward. I ask as my 72 is a 4 speed small block that I want to put my 427 BB in.

What gears are you running and what tire size? I read you took most of the lift out of it, but it still looks lifted. Did you raise it back up?

Thank you.

Chris

[JMD]

Hi Chris,

Moving the drivetrain was fairly simple, it’s just a matter of drilling new holes in the frame and sliding the two cross members forward. Then the driveshaft needs to be lengthened and the transfer case shifter modified so it’s still centered in the cab floor.

I’m running 4.10 gears with a 285/70/r17 tires. I took all the lift out of the front springs but left the rear alone. I think the fact that the frame still has 3/4t spring hangers may have something to do with the lifted stance. The only reason I took the lift out of the front springs is because the front was sitting a good inch higher than the rear and it looked ridiculous.

[BDC1]

Well it has a great ride height now.

You mentioned a spacer between the mounts. Was this for engine height?