Can you replace a cam in a small block 68 C10 without removing the grill?

[Zone47]

It looks pretty close... I hope I can just pull the radiator and be ok.


Question #2 is; should I pay the big bucks and go retro roller cam or spend just a couple hundred and go flat tappet cam - risking rounding a lobe off?

Any one with experience in this area?

[AussieinNC]

If this is an air con truck, you wont have enough room...

Even if not an air con truck, you will have to remove the grille...

In my opinion, remove the engine and mount it on a stand...why?

By the time you remove the sump, balancer, water pump, front timing cover, manifold and rocker covers, then try and get the old lifters out all while bent over the fenders...

Going roller depends on what engine is in it now...aftermarket kits allow you to add roller cam and lifters without having the Vortec style mounting points in the valley...but they are not cheap.

Have you considered doing a re-power to say a 96 - 2001 Vortec 350 ? They are plentiful in wreckers yards and have a good aftermarket support line.

If you go Vortec, you cant use your older 350 manifold or rocker covers...

Lobe round off with flat tappet cams is always possible,,,correct break in procedures are critical.

I stopped building flat tappet engines three years ago, unless it is a street stocker...

[Zone47]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

If this is an air con truck, you wont have enough room...

Even if not an air con truck, you will have to remove the grille...

In my opinion, remove the engine and mount it on a stand...why?

By the time you remove the sump, balancer, water pump, front timing cover, manifold and rocker covers, then try and get the old lifters out all while bent over the fenders...

Going roller depends on what engine is in it now...aftermarket kits allow you to add roller cam and lifters without having the Vortec style mounting points in the valley...but they are not cheap.

Have you considered doing a re-power to say a 96 - 2001 Vortec 350 ? They are plentiful in wreckers yards and have a good aftermarket support line.

If you go Vortec, you cant use your older 350 manifold or rocker covers...

Lobe round off with flat tappet cams is always possible,,,correct break in procedures are critical.

I stopped building flat tappet engines three years ago, unless it is a street stocker...

Thanks.

No Air, if that's what you mean.
Pulling the engine would make it a bit easier.... plus I need to upgrade the motor mounts anyway. I want to keep the truck carburated and looking somewhat old school if possible. I know a Vortec engine would make a lot more power ... I may search around and see what is out there. Thanks for the info.

[AussieinNC]

You can stay "old school" with a Vortec...there are carb manifolds available in aftermarket and even old school rocker covers that fit over the center bolt Vortecs...

Its your choice...

I just like the ease of the power gain with the Vortec engines...and the one piece rear main oil seal system reduces the chances of oil leaks down the road.

[Alex V.]

Yes, you can get the cam out with the grille in. But the need to drop the oil pan may make it more practical to just pull the engine, assuming it's a 2WD truck. I just lifted the engine in my 'Burb, but only because the engine didn't leak like a sieve otherwise and I wasn't compelled to sink the extra time into taking it out.

For max MPG and power, roller is superior. But for any kind of mild DD truck there's nothing wrong with flat tappet cams. They aren't the pinless grenade the internet makes them sound like if you get the assembly and first hour of run time right.

[Mr Handy]

pull the front clip in one piece. I think its 8 bolts at the back of the fenders and 2 bolts at the core support. If you need motor mounts you probably need core mounts as well. disconnect the rad and unplug the wiring harness at the firewall takes less then an hour and makes life a million times easier. two people can lift it off or one man and and engine hoist with a couple straps.

[ElKotze]

Nothing wrong with a flat tappet and carb for a mild driver. If you know what you're doing, it's cheap and reliable. If you are building something a little more serious, a roller cam is the way to go, because you can run a more aggressive grind.

[snipescastle2]

I changed my cam without removing the grill, I have a '71 I did have to remove the latch mechanism and a/c condensor, but that was it. I will say this, it would
Be better to remove the engine though, because you have to loosen up the oil pan in order to pull the timing cover, I got a nice little oil leak at the timing cover/oil pan intersection now, and I degreased it well, put a dab of RTV in the corners too. So, food for thought.
Ben.

[57larry]

why do you say to drop the pan? to put a cam in? just loosen the front pan bolts to remove the timing cover

[snipescastle2]

That's what I said, had to loosen the front of the pan to get the timing cover off.
ended up with a leak, guess I'll be replacing my pan gasket soon.
Ben

[toolboxchev]

Pull the motor if you take pride in doing it right. With that said I would go with a retro roller hyd setup funds available.

To much can and will go wrong if its your first build. Unless you do a ton of research, spend the time to learn the tricks. Knowledge over Knuckles wins every time.