Where do I start??

[Tmac85]

Picked up this 69 Longbed Step-side for 600. Barely runs. Rust galore. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try to fix it up seeing how parts are easy to find. I guess my biggest question is to use patch pieces or entire aftermarket panels. I'm a welder by trade with little to zero knowledge on body work. Please tell me there is potential here??
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[rob32472]

There is potential in everything, however the level of it depends on your skill. If you are a welder by trade welding and fitting the patch panels for the cab floor should be easier than any beginner. My advice would be tear it down see what you really have and begin with he cab. Then once all of your rust repair on it is done tackle the chassis, and drive train, then set the cab. The exterior sheet metal can all be purchased aftermarket, or used on the truck board. Take it one part at a time and enjoy the journey.

[FleetsidePaul]

If you're a welder you've got half the battle won already. Just take it one piece at a time like rob32472 said. Just enjoy working on it. It sounds to me like you have the skills.

And it's a really cool truck. Potential, YES.

OK folks you heard it here first. FleetsidePaul likes Stepside's

[snipescastle2]

I'm not a "Seasoned" welder such as yourself, but I would recommend .023" welding wire, lots less grinding compared to .035" (ask me how I know) and buy lots of Cleco's/sheet metal butt welding clamps, and a good spot weld cutter, the harbor freight stuff is ok, but I bought a set of " Rotabroach" hole cutters, way better to cut out spot welds.
I ended up using a different cab for my build, the rust was in the usual places, rockers, cab supports, etc. someone once told me to start from the inside and work my way out. If you look at my build thread, you can see some of the hurdles I had to overcome. I ended up having to replace the entire rear cab support (the back wall of the cab is spot welded to it (probably 90 some odd spot welds) I braced the cab roof to the floor and the door pillars front to back,side to side and x braced to make sure nothing moved during my cutting and fitting. One thing I did that I would recommend doing is, to make a template out of cardboard of the inside perimeter of the door frame (trace around the pinchwelds of the entire door frame) this way you can ensure that the door frame will be perfect when you go back together with it.
You also want to make sure you have the doors on before doing the rocker panels, otherwise they won't align and you'll be doing that over again.
Hope that helps a little.
Have a good one!
Ben Smith

[Tmac85]

Great advice! After further review of the cab the entire bottom will need to be replaced. What's a realistic number on a used donor cab?
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[bill3rail]

Get it running good first. Then start on the cab.
Being a welder, you have a leg up on some of us!

Best of luck to you.

Bill

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Tmac85

Great advice! After further review of the cab the entire bottom will need to be replaced. What's a realistic number on a used donor cab?
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There is a complete floor available aftermarket FYI. It's a relatively easy swap. Brace, brace, brace, measure, measure, measure before you start cutting. That's a pretty cool truck. Unfortunately a good donor cab from your neck of the woods can be a bit of a challenge to find, they are out there tho. You could pay the subscription fee and post a want to buy ads in the parts section of the board.

[Tmac85]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

There is a complete floor available aftermarket FYI. It's a relatively easy swap. Brace, brace, brace, measure, measure, measure before you start cutting. That's a pretty cool truck. Unfortunately a good donor cab from your neck of the woods can be a bit of a challenge to find, they are out there tho. You could pay the subscription fee and post a want to buy ads in the parts section of the board.

Where should the bracing go and what measurements need to be taken?
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