09-04-2017, 04:30 PM | #1 |
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Location: Lexington, Ky
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Draining brake fluid?
If I plan on redoing my brakes , how do I completely drain the old system?
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09-04-2017, 05:46 PM | #2 |
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Re: Draining brake fluid?
A vacuum bleeder will get almost all of it out. You'll have to remove the cylinders or calipers to get the remaining part.
Unless you need to replace cylinders, I would bleed everything you can out, and then refill and bleed until the fluid is nice and clear.
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09-04-2017, 05:52 PM | #3 |
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Re: Draining brake fluid?
Can you define what you mean by "redoing"?
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
09-04-2017, 06:08 PM | #4 |
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Re: Draining brake fluid?
New lines, booster, and master cylinder.
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09-04-2017, 06:26 PM | #5 |
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Re: Draining brake fluid?
If it was me I would cut the hoses and remove the master cylinder cap and let it drain into drip pans over night. Then after removing the master cylinder the next day blow the lines out with air. If you can regulate the pressure 50 psi will make less of a mess than 125 psi. Then flush with brake clean and blow out again. The remaining fluid in the slaves will be flushed when you bleed the system.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
09-04-2017, 06:34 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Cherryville, NC
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Re: Draining brake fluid?
If you remove the master cyl, the metal lines and the booster, all you have left is the wheel cylinders and calipers if it has discs...
You should replace the rubber lines as well...so, just cut the rubber lines off, near the wheel cylinders and place the end in a used water bottle, take the lid off of the master cylinder and let it drain over night. Put some kitty litter around the area to catch any over flow... Then just remove the master cylinder etc...make sure the bleeder nipples work ok first... Note! Warning...There are numerous threads on here about incorrect booster / master cylinder combinations...please ensure whatever you buy matches up... Finally...Suggest you look at the metal lines, these rust out on 2005 trucks,,,,so suggest you check em out real good...now is the time to do em ... Stay safe... |
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