'05 2500HD 6.0 AT 4x4 common issues

[irhunter]

I am looking at the truck in the title. Only 90k miles. Anything specific to this model/year that I should be aware of?

I think I have read something about exhaust manifolds on the 6.0.

How do the front ends hold up (ball joints and such)?

Thanks,

Roy

[edhtrd71]

In my experience they are about as reliable as can be. I have seen some with over 300k miles on the road. Fuel economy is not great but what can you expect from a 3/4 ton 4x4. The exhaust manifold issues are the same for all the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 engines. If they are in an environment that causes rust then the bolts will break off and you will need to extract them. Its actually super easy with a welder.

[edhtrd71]

Sorry, forgot.
Front ends hold up very well. Sometimes they will wear out the idler and pitman arms. Mostly that comes from the trucks with over sized tires and the front ends leveled or much higher than stock. going passed level puts the steering parts in an angle that causes a much higher load on the arms.

[irhunter]

Thanks for the reply.

It feels the post-2000 trucks hold up a lot better than the 90's. Do you think that's true?

My only experience with the post-2000 trucks is a 2002 3500 dually...which has been a great truck. Are the 1/2 tons of that era pretty durable, too?

Roy

[95 S_Trucker]

The exhaust manifold bolt issue does not happen from rust. It happens from towing and hauling a lot. The manifold heats up and warps a little, puts some extra stress on the bolt and it snaps. 90% of the time, you can grab a hold of the broken bolt and it will unscrew easily, or with the help of an extractor. The other 10% is when they need drilled out completely. sometimes you can clean up the original threads, and sometimes you can use a helicoil. The horror stories happen from drilling them out off center or accidently welding the bolt to the threads.

Brake lines and fuel lines rusting out are common.

Wheel well rust and rocker panel rust is common

Fuel pumps are common(but not more common than any other GM product)

Instrument clusters are common.

Front Hub bearings are common

EBCMs are common

The engines will last a really long time.

In my opinion, the 88-98 trucks have less issues than the 99-06, but the 88-98 trucks have tons of miles and are beat up pretty bed. I live in the rust belt, and my old style 99 does not have any body rust, still has the factory fuel and brake line.


The specific reason I am holding on to my old style 99 so long is because of the rust issues on the 99-06 trucks, and the lack of a big block in the 07+ trucks. I tow a decent amount and I don't want a diesel.

[69gmcc10]

I love these trucks but they do have a few common issues.

Rusty brake lines is common but seems like a regional issue, I have never seen that problem in Montana.

Instrument clusters, it seems less common 04 and later.

Pump Rub- google it

Various small interior electrical failures, nothing major or difficult to fix, jut annoying.

Everything else I have encountered is just wear and tare.

[irhunter]

Brake lines on Chevys up here seem to last <100k miles.

I decided not to look at a K2500 1996 with the 5.7 and AT. Maybe that was a mistake?

At work, the '98 K3500 5.7 5-speed has been a money pit compared to the '02 3500 with the 6.0 and 5-speed.

[edhtrd71]

I guess it depends on where you live. I live in Texas and have never had to deal with the rust issues. I own an 05 2500hd 6.0 and have towed a lot with it and it still hasn't popped an exhaust manifold bolt. Maybe not a rust issue but seems to be some type of corrosion issue. All of the trucks I have seen with the broken bolts were from up north. I don't recommend drilling out the broken bolts because it is to easy to ruin a perfectly good head. Ruining the hole and using a helicoil is never a good option. I have done the procedure many times and it is way to easy to weld to the broken bolts. There is no real issue of welding the threads to the head as the head is aluminum and the weld cant stick to it. You just need a tack weld to the broken flush bolt which also creates heat that helps the bolt come out really easily. I worked as a technician at a gm dealership from 1995-2013 and in my opinion the newer body style is quite a bit better than the older trucks. I have also owned both. When you get tired of fixing fuel injection issues, worn distributor issues and engine leaks you will want the ls engine based trucks. If either were to brake down the newer trucks are way easier to repair.

[95 S_Trucker]

I don't have any complaints about the ls engines, except for a lack of torque(especially down low). The 7.4 had real fuel injectors, not the spider setup.

It was just my personal opinion from my personal experiences. I run an independent shop and see quite a few trucks from both generations.

[edhtrd71]

That's funny about the 7.4 having real injectors. I completely agree. I have never owned a big block truck but I know everyone that has one in either body style loves them. They are quite the workhorses.

[irhunter]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

The 7.4 had real fuel injectors, not the spider setup.

What is the spider setup?

[edhtrd71]

Its what the 95-2000 5.7 vortec used for fuel injection. CSFI, on a bench it looks like a spider. They can be a real pain in the butt some times. They clog easily and need a lot more fuel pressure to start than everything else. Most don't need replacing as they usually just clog. There is a kit to run compressed nitrogen to them at high pressure and then turn them on with a scan tool. Some will pop right open but some can be quite tough to get flowing again. There is a kit to replace the whole setup with a more typical style injector.

[irhunter]

Originally Posted by edhtrd71

Its what the 95-2000 5.7 vortec used for fuel injection. CSFI, on a bench it looks like a spider. They can be a real pain in the butt some times. They clog easily and need a lot more fuel pressure to start than everything else. Most don't need replacing as they usually just clog. There is a kit to run compressed nitrogen to them at high pressure and then turn them on with a scan tool. Some will pop right open but some can be quite tough to get flowing again. There is a kit to replace the whole setup with a more typical style injector.

Thanks. Here is another explanation, with some pics:

http://www.theautoshop.net/VortecMPFI.htm

[Bladeboy1998]

Wheel bearings, rear brakes, fuel pumps, the usual front end parts, the intake manifold gaskets are pretty common too, just causes a vacuum leak and bad fuel mileage, as said above, the exhaust manifold bolts in the corners. Otherwise really reliable rugged trucks.

[4x4k30]

check the radiator at the oil cooler lines and transmission cooler lines for cracks useally this happens from age over 10 years