Build that 71 402 already

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

If I never see another wire brush it will be too soon.......HA!.

I went through these over the last couple weeks, inventoried everything less common washers and nuts, processed & cleaned.

The pictures don't do these justice, not a spot on em. These pieces will be plated or coated. It's about 90+% of the hardware off the project truck. Ask me what bolt goes where down to the head stamp -Yikes-. Too much man, and too many hours. I wouldn't want to do this again.

[DeadheadNM]

After plating those pieces will look brand new I guarantee it. You'll be pleased.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Steering Linkage.

You figure I should paint the couplers and clamps satin black like the rest arms, links and tie rods, or black zinc like the nuts and bolts? I figure black zinc is more durable.

That said, I may have the hardware phosphate coated. If I do, just as well to paint.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

When I dove into this project I jumped on some new repro. bed bolts and bumper bolts. I came across my original bolts while going through a box of "rejects". I'll be using these

Can't swear the rears (wide head) are original bumper bolts, but the fronts are.

[DeadheadNM]

Are the smaller examples the capped bolts that affix the license plate bracket to the rear bumper? They are like mini bumper bolts.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Are the smaller examples the capped bolts that affix the license plate bracket to the rear bumper? They are like mini bumper bolts.

No, they're front bumper bolts. I do have something for the license plate bracket packed away. I think you're right though, smaller version cap bolts.

[b.sharp]

Holy OCD man. I am all for wire wheeling bolts prior to reinstalling them but this goes waaaaay beyond that. Are you doing a 100 point restoration to a truck? I can't wait to see the rest. I know who to ask when I start putting my truck back together that I bought in pieces.

Great work...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by b.sharp

Holy OCD man. I am all for wire wheeling bolts prior to reinstalling them but this goes waaaaay beyond that. Are you doing a 100 point restoration to a truck? I can't wait to see the rest. I know who to ask when I start putting my truck back together that I bought in pieces.

Great work...

Thanks man, yeah I got it bad. It's mostly a "restoration", but we're limited when it comes to an original under-carriage (e.g., shocks, exhaust). Ask away anytime. I track everything

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

BUMMER. I must be dumb & blind, because I never noticed this before, even while cleaning heavy grease off the area.....yikes!

As you can imagine, the bottom of the horn is bent forward. I seem to recall the bumper seemed a bit off. That's because it was, by 3/16 ish". Think I'll check my skills with a sledge hammer.

With a glance at my bumper it's easy to see what happened......someone hit a rock, but good.


EDIT: That was easy. I don't know much about welding, but I left a pinch open for it. I'll do a bit more manipulation, but it measures up and will work well as is. After a weld anyway.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Couple of steel retainers I missed. Had em in the wrong box

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I've looked for one of these a long while. Near as long as it took to determine what cap came on the truck from factory.

Guee I'm the only looking for one. No other bidders and nice price. Contrary to what many believe, an EEC cap can vent. The difference might be the spring type, which allows the tank to vent only when necessary. Don't quote me on that. Interesting read: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...r-ecs-repairs/

[DeadheadNM]

That's correct for a non-base 71 1/2t truck? I'm not up on 71. The 72 caps are different and perhaps a one year only part.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

That's correct for a non-base 71 1/2t truck? I'm not up on 71. The 72 caps are different and perhaps a one year only part.

Per the parts book, the cap I got is for a 1971 service 10 and G-10. The book reads the same cap is used with a 1970 service 10 with EEC. Only some 70s had EEC, and all 71s had EEC, so.....

There's no other cap listed for a 1971 service 10. It's a two year cap only 70-71, so yeah, 72 used a different cap.

It's worth noting the 70-71 EEC fuel tank differs from a 72 EEC fuel tank. Perhaps not the tank, but definitely the fuel pump and sender. That's led to some board confusion, but the parts book sent me into the right direction, and go figure, my truck matched the book.

It's an interesting mix of caps, years and configurations. I think that's led to some board confusion as well, and I can see how. http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=21462

[DeadheadNM]

A thread on correct gas caps per year and application would be great.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

A thread on correct gas caps per year and application would be great.

That link provides it. Previous page for earlier years.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Yesterday we flipped the bed over to hit the underneath. Paint/body dude is doing a real nice job on this:

[Steeveedee]

Interesting work! What is that white patch past the truck bed? Is it a light or did you blank it off in MSPaint to hide the exotic dancer standing there? :p

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Interesting work! What is that white patch past the truck bed? Is it a light or did you blank it off in MSPaint to hide the exotic dancer standing there? :p

Okay I give, why interesting? I don't claim to know much about body & paint, but from what I've seen & heard, the painter is legit.

Heck yes it's a stripper. Two matter of fact, a blonde and brunette. That and a very old MG. I figure the painter wouldn't appreciate me posting his license plate.

[notsolo]

I would have said deflector shield, keeps the floor and the shop spot less. Good progress on your new truck.....Happy Thanksgiving.....Ed.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Okay I give, why interesting? I don't claim to know much about body & paint, but from what I've seen & heard, the painter is legit.

Heck yes it's a stripper. Two matter of fact, a blonde and brunette. That and a very old MG. I figure the painter wouldn't appreciate me posting his license plate.

Just interesting, what with all the nice work on everything you are doing. Not that particular post.

You're nice about his privacy. I see people posting stuff they shouldn't all over the internet.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Just interesting, what with all the nice work on everything you are doing. Not that particular post.

You're nice about his privacy. I see people posting stuff they shouldn't all over the internet.

Ah, thanks Steeveedee. I'm paranoid you know .


Well, today I figure to build a platform, so we can lay the cab on its back. I'll link it up to the cab cart............. I built a cart for the front clip, and it served its purpose, but I don't figure to need it anymore, since the painter now has the hood and he's ready for the inner fenders too........... In other terms, build it, tear it down and build a new one............ Fun, cough! Think I'll change my signature from "money pit" to resource intensive.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I could have used the cart I built for the front clip, by just cutting the posts. But I ended up taking most of it apart to build the platform. The cart wasn't designed for it. The width was perfect, but it was 7" longer than I'd prefer. That and I wanted to use 4x4s, more bolts, and my other casters.

The cart had 3/4" ply for shelving, but in the end another 30 bucks. At some point I'll add stakes to hang the fenders (space is a premium), and probably some eye bolts to strap the cab down. With the foam rubber I'm using on top the platform, it's level with the cab cart.

Ended up cutting some threaded rods, so the "carts" disconnect from either side. Access would be a real *%(*&%. I thought the 2/4s used to bolt up the platform would give the separation I was looking for, but the bolt heads were a "direct" fit against the cab. So I mounted 3/4" ply onto the cab cart. That worked out well, because I drilled through the ply instead of the cart.

2/6" was an accident, BTW, I figured it might come as an option to link the platform to the cart, and as soon as I slapped it on, I realized the platform is widest side to side, not front to back..HA!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Just the engine and transmission to go. Like everything else I've found, the front and rear suspension is easy. One of the best pieces of advice I got was secure the coil springs with a chain.

I'll pull the engine and transmission after Christmas for a stripped frame. This was an excellent truck to learn on. Less factory rivets for the ball joints, I didn't cut or drill a single fastener, and no torch. Even with rear leaf springs.

That and outside a few additions for all things recreational, the truck I bought 29 years ago was unmolested. A lot of research, and the 67-72 encyclopedia allowed me to retrace what was my and the former mechanic's undoing.

At this point I'm giving much consideration to having everything blasted & powder coated, including the frame.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Pulling the engine Saturday with some assistance, but today I pulled the transmission. So easy with the transmission jack.

Interesting set of bolts for the transmission to block. Can't swear they're factory, because we pulled the engine once. From my observation, we were real good about using the same bolts, and none were added.

Two (Grade 8) 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Heads are stamped with a circle.

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. Head is stamped "A".

Two 9/16 flange bolts. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.3/16, of which 5/16" is shaft. These are unusual, because though they're flange bolts, the heads are not recessed. That and they have four markings, so I can't say what grade. The heads are stamped "IiL P SiB".

One (Grade 5) 9/16 flange bolt. Bolt threads are 3/8-16 x 1.1/4", and no shaft. Head is stamped "M". This bolt was used to retain the transmission dipstick tube and vacuum retainers.

[DeadheadNM]

Bolt pics please