57 GMC 496 Canyon Carver

[lower50's]

You should be able to upload pics direct to forum. Up here we have these fittings called Sharkbite. It is a push lock fitting that can be used on pex or copper, very nice product. Or you can use a sweat in pex barb.
Glad your pour went well.

[ptc]

NC - looks like your "Canyon Carver" thread is turning into a BUILDERAMA thread with all you shop builders going at it during the wrong time of the year!

Thats going to be my next project too I think... the little interior home projects are kinda done with 2 bathrooms, a laundry, a pantry, a bar and the patio all done - it will be time to start on the EXPANDED garage/shop in the spring time and our office remodel at the house now.

My 94 yr old dad - has been an architect for 75% of that time is coming to visit and draw me some plans, he still loves it so much (and he works cheap)! ---

Enjoy!!!

Post up some pics of all this stuff you are doing - you know... "It didnt happen unless there are pics of it!"

[Nut Case]

ptc

pm me your cell number and I'll happily text photo's and provide proof.

My energy is directed to the completion of my "shed" when that is far enough along. I'll take the time move photo's from phone to computer and figure how to up load to this forum.

At this stage I consider that computer time a clock sucker and will focus on the completion of the shed.

Keep on keepin on

NC

PS Lowered has photo's that I texted him on his cell. I promise not to put your phone number on the truck stop restroom wall in Emigrant Pass.

[lower50's]

want me to post them for you? As long as you don't put my number at the truck stop lol

[Nut Case]

Lowered

Be my guest. I've got my photos on my desk top. When I'm to the point of moving in to the "shed". I'll load one post for the build. Then start posting for the build thread.

[Nut Case]

Walls framed, trusses up and squareD and sheeted and shingled. Exterior walls have been water proofed with poly plastic. Windows and man door installed. Caulking the walls where ever there is a sheeting butt joint in the sheeting, doing HU 1 truss anchors. Lots of chalking to stop drafts.

Then on to drilling for the rough electrical, pull cable make up boxes, then get C of O.

Ill try to load photos the next time I up date. hoping for better weather, but since Iam a one man show, it takes what ever time it takes.

An tips on the electrical system for what ever would be welcome.

Keep on Keepin on

Nut Case

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Walls framed, trusses up and squareD and sheeted and shingled. Exterior walls have been water proofed with poly plastic. Windows and man door installed. Caulking the walls where ever there is a sheeting butt joint in the sheeting, doing HU 1 truss anchors. Lots of chalking to stop drafts.

Then on to drilling for the rough electrical, pull cable make up boxes, then get C of O.

Ill try to load photos the next time I up date. hoping for better weather, but since Iam a one man show, it takes what ever time it takes.

An tips on the electrical system for what ever would be welcome.

Keep on Keepin on

Nut Case

Nice Tips put way more 110V outlets than you think you need and double that number near your workbench/ work area.
All my 110V outlets are 20A and I ran a 20A breaker for each wall worked out great.

[dsraven]

how big is your shed?
my electrical system for garage-24x30-10ft ceiling-2 big doors and 1 man door-cold climate
-check home depot etc for a deal on the panel with breakers already in. possibly cheaper that way. you may need to buy some additional ones as well but it's a start. my shop breaker panel is in the shop and has as many circuits as the house has
-wire it like a kitchen so the plugs are split circuits. then you can plug in 2 power hogs and not blow the circuit
-install the plugs just a bit higher than 4 ft (then floor jacks or parts boxes can be placed anywhere around the perimeter) so they can be easily reached even if you lean a sheet of plywood against the wall. place plugs every 8 ft so you need less cords. -install a 20 amp plug on each side wall 1/2 way from front to rear for those heavy duty tools like a table saw or whatever
-wire in a thermostat, wire to where the heater will likely be, and install a box even if there is no heater yet
-install outside lights and plugs on each exterior wall. switch each ext light separately
wire in some lights in the attic if you plan to store stuff up there some day
-run a string of lights down each wall and down the center, plus across the front where the bench will be. switch them separately. if using fluorescents have a regular bulb socket somewhere near the entrance door so if you are only going in the shop for something quick you don't need to turn on all the big lights, saves on ballasts etc in the long term
-run the wire for an rv plug on the outside if applicable
-run wire and plug for a welder somewhere in the front middle so access from anywhere. try not to place it under the workbench unless you plan to extend it out nfor access
-install a receptacle somewhere near the man door with a usb plug in it for the phone charger. place backing for shelf hangers as well
-run wire for a compressor on both front corners and make it oversized for the amperage of a larger compressor in the future, if that is where your plan is to have the compressor placed, so if you change the floor plan around later you have options. also, if it is at the other end of the shop, you may need to squeeze past stuff to turn the compressor on/off. if heating the shop try to place the compressor somewhere in the blower path to warm the unit up when the heat comes on, if you turn the heat off overnight
-install attic hatches front and rear so you can store stuff up there if needed (false floor in mine at 18" above ceiling and blown in insulation. handy). if you plan to finish the cieling
-run the air inlet for the compressor into the attic with a filter on it up there. becomes a lot less noisy in the shop (assuming you finish the ceiling and insulate)
-run air lines across ceiling at the front with a couple drops for the workbench, then down each side at least 1/2 way with drops in the center of the bay(s) have an airline to the shop big door
-if you plan to finish the walls with drywall think about a strip of treated wood about a foot tall around the bottom. then if it gets wet on the floor the drywall won't leach up the water. try not to sheet the walls with plywood on the inside, it is flammable and burns hot. metal siding on the inside would be an option I would think about if building another shop
install backing for shelves or cupboards etc before sheeting the walls. think about if you ever plan on installing air hose reels or cord reels in the future as well. they would need backing

[Nut Case]

Dsraven

My shed is 28 X 40, 12' ceiling,

Thanks for taking the time too share your list of items to be considered. I've already printed you list for my build book. Lots of good advise. Thanks

NC

[dsraven]

with a 12 ft cieling you have the opportunity to have shelves "hung" from the rafters around the outside walls. that way stuff is up off the floor but still accessible from the shop with a step ladder. plastic bins or "milk crate" style boxes work well and also stack. the "hung" shelves still allow the vehicle doors to open and not hit a floor mounted shelf unit but still allow lots of accessible storage. being taller off the floor allows more room around the vehicle as well.
-I have a step ladder with the back beams missing so it simply leans against the "hung" shelves. the "paint tray" or top step is deeper so it actually sits on the shelf for stability and also gives the correct climbing angle. it is also light and smaller so it easily stores on a set of hooks below the shelves.
-under those shelves I have installed some 45 degree angle brackets that hold 4 ft fluorescent fixtures with screens so the light is scattered out into the shop area instead of straight down at the floor. the lights are closer to the floor than yours would possibly be, due to ceiling height, so they get light under the overhang of a fender when doing jobs like brakes or shocks etc. good light = less mobile lighting that usually ends up being a pain. they don't call them trouble lights for nothing. it's because they are trouble.
-since I use my shop for a repair facility I rarely park in there. it is usually full of projects or "jobs". with that in mind I have figured out where to have air line drops with hose reels for the solvent cleaning tank, the workbench, one on each outside wall in the middle of the work area, one longer reel in the center of the 2 bays, one plug in at the post between the shop doors. I have a plumbed in coiled airline near the solvent tank/workbench so a hose reel is not taken up with a tool that is used a lot in these areas. not always unplugging a tool and plugging in a blower, then reversing the procedure to use the tool again.
-I have left room near the compressor for some large copper line that is looped and sloped and has a drain at the bottom. this is an air cooler from the compressor outlet so air can cool and drop out moisture before it heads to the next, shorter moisture elimination unit sitting closer to the compressor. if I were doing it again I may try to use some "fin" from a heating unit. it is copper line with fins on the outside for radiator style baseboard heaters and would cool the tubing better than simple smooth copper line.
-from there the air heads out to the large air lines that run across the ceiling to the hose reels. at each end of each of those there is also a drop out, below the air line take off, with a drain for condensate. some have smaller plastic line run from the steel piping low point which runs down to an accessible area for easy draining.
-on my compressor I have an electric auto drain unit that is tied to a light switch so the compressor tank gets purged regularly when I am in the shop (lights on). this is because I regularly forget to drain the lines in the morning. so far the system works well with basically zero noticable moisture if I were to blow air with a nozzle. tools get less wear this way.
-personally I have steel line but lots of guys are using plastic plumbing, like pex, and have no issues. when I did mine the supplier couldn't tell me if the pex fittings would hold 120 lbs of air. pex makes it quite easy since you don't have to thread stuff together.cut, install the fitting, crimp, carry on. the plastic doesn't rust and is way lighter. run large lines, like 3/4 or 1", so your tools receive enough pressure and will work properly. large lines are also an air reservoir.
-place a valve near the compressor so you can disconnect the compressor quickly if need be if you blow a line or whatever.
-it is nice to have a hose reel near the work bench vice but put it far enough away, overhead, so the hose isn't hanging in the vice jaws while you are working or using a torch or whatever.
-if using radiant heaters remember it heats up darker objects quicker, like possibly your forehead if the heater is placed above the workbench, so if you are a hat wearer or use a welder's cap it could get warm on the head as the shop heats up. personally I used an overhead unit heater for that reason and also because it gets cold (like -30 C) here so when the doors open the radiant heat takes longer to warm things up. floor heat is nice as well but takes more time to install plus the expense of the install, maintenance and the worry of what a cracked slab could do to the lines in the slab or what would happen should you want to drill into the floor to install a hoist, tire machine etc.
-whatever you do, take pics of where things are before you insulate or sheet the walls. then you know where stuff is later if you want to install a shelf or something later.
-for wiring, if you plan on electric door openers, a light switch that cuts power easily to the shop doors makes it easy to disable the shop doors without dumping the breaker so the breaker doesn't wear out over time. it also makes it harder for a thief to power up the door openers, should that scenario ever come up, because they don't know about the switch.
-run another door bell switch to the big doors so you can open/close the doors from the big door area without punching a code or carrying a remote.
- if doing it again I would also install a conduit from the breaker panel area to the attic area so if I needed to run power to something later it would be easier.
-office lateral filing cabinets make nice tool storage areas for grinders, drills, or other large tools. the shelves work like drawers for easy access and the shelves have fronts so visitors or passersby don't see what tools you have. unlike permanent shelving screwed to the wall, they can be moved wherever you like and also can be placed on rubber strips so if the floor gets wet often they won't rust or rot (like wooden shelving). they also have that top area for big stuff like chop saws or tote boxes.
-for a workbench I went to the local scrap metal dealer and managed to find a good sized chunk of 1/2" plate. I had it cut to size with nice square edges and then mounted it on a base made from good sized pipe. I made a shelf under it with steel shelving for the actual shelf and reinforced the edges with some good stout flat bar under the top. I sheeted in 3 sides so things on the shelf only get dirty from one side. on the shelf I keep my jack stands. if I am cutting or grinding the stands don't care but they also don't get too full of slag etc.
on one of the front legs I have installed a horizontal pipe that accepts my engine stand part. there is also a square tube near the floor of that leg that accepts a piece of square tube that acts as the lower extension of the engine stand so the bench doesn't fall over with a heavy engine.
the vice is bolted on so the inner jaw is even with the edge of the workbench so I am able to hang something in the vice and have it clear the front edge of the bench.
the tube installed in the leg for the engine stand also doubles as a place to install a table top "extender" so if doing something like u joints, where I need to support the end of the shaft while the other end is in the vice, that extender makes it easier.
on the other end of the bench from the vice I fabbed up a sheet metal break for bending smaller items, the width of the workbench.
hope it helps. if I think of other suggestions I'll let you know

[Nut Case]

Wonderful stuff, thanks again

NC

[farmall]

"At this stage I consider that computer time a clock sucker"

Like reading this Thread.

[Nut Case]

I found my way back. Looks like I need to down load some photos of the shed. That will be my next post.

The Roomatoad Autherites monster snuck up out of nowhere and dropped a big tripple axle 12 wheeler and dumped a s#!+ LOAD right smack on me head to toe. Just bearly got to daylight. I would wish this dieses on my worst enemy .... well maybe slick ricky. and the BOD of Google.

Been readin and watchin strong work

Keep on keepinon

nutz

[joedoh]

nice to hear from you NC, good luck going forward!