Fatman, TCI, or Scotts IFS/Chassis on 49 AD

[jocww]

Here is the truck. Been in the garage since 1981 so the rust isn't to bad there's some right above the side skirt with cracking thay i just sar when i wnt to look for the mater cylinder

[jocww]

Thats great to hear Paintman. He did seem to help alot more when i first met him, but when we went around the second time less so. His product does seem to be really really well made. I do have second thoughts on the alignment though.

[paintman]

I do have second thoughts on the alignment though.[/QUOTE]

I havn't had my front end aligned professionaly yet. But I have had my front end apart about 5 times during my build. It gets easier each time but I can see why a guy at a n alignment shop will scoff at it. It's a little more involved to move the spacers around with the Scott's front end, compared to just loosening up a few bolts a taping things with a hammer to get a standard MII aligned.

I think what I am going to do is take mine to my local shop that I have dealt with for years. Have them put the lasers on it and tell me where its at. Then take it home and tinker with it myself until I think it's close and then go back and have them check it again. This way there not trying to learn the whole process.

hell theres some guys that just do there own alignments with chaulk and a couple pieces of twine in there own garage.

[4544speed]

I did the Flat out kit a couple of years ago. I would suggest really doing your homework on this before going that route. The few things I did not like was the lack of directions. About 7 pages of hand written and photo copied info. Some of the measurements on it were incorrect. They send a bag of bolts and nuts that are not labeled like most other kits. I think if you had installed one before you would be familiar enough to work through it. The front kit is movable but unless you have you cab on, you will not know the correct location to center the wheels. (unless you mark the center before removing cab/bed) The instructions only place it in the original location.(and Flatout would not give me any specific measurements for moving it) Most people move the suspension to center the wheel. You can't move the rear without modifying the original kit thereby reducing the reason to buy the kit. Does not have provisions for sway bars. After removing the sway bar and original springs replacing with coil overs, I have to wonder if there is an advantage to the corvette suspension. I do like the like that you can buy parts but even now you can't buy a rubber bushing kit for the C4. has to be poly.) I don't think I would buy the rear kit again.

[jocww]

454 did you do full chassis or a front and rear set up? That's a lot of good insight i didn't think about not having the exact locations to mock everything up. On the plus side the ride tech showed up today!! Didnt get to open it up cause i had to go on shift. But i will when I'm done with this tour.

[jocww]

Got a great price on an ls1 with auto today. Couldn't pass it up so i guess i will not be going the t56 route. Good thing i didn't buy a new chassis yet. The guy i picked it up from said to look at stoner speed shop. Had anyone used them before? Nobody has mentioned them yet.

[jocww]

ended up getting the chassis from TCI today. there goes all my money

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by jocww

ended up getting the chassis from TCI today. there goes all my money

It was nice to meet you yesterday Jonathan. I'll get some pics of the chassis being built and post them up.

-J

[solidaxel]

Did you get the whole chassis or just the front IFS?

[jocww]

I cheated and ordered a complete chassis with air ride since I ordered the ride tech stuff already.
Evan sold me into doing the complete chassis instead of cutting up my frame even though its in pretty good condition. By the time I ordered front and rear kits, and boxed everything it would be about 2-3k difference, plus a lot of work in getting all the rust and grime off. A lot of money for sure, but then its done right, with a warranty, and I can hopefully finish it faster and spend more time with my dad driving it, as this is the whole point of the project. The unsuspecting thing is that it did cost more than the 3k spread I was thinking because of tax, and all the other things that we wanted. Mainly the air ride and having them do all the assembly, which in my mind 400 for them to assemble everything and get all the angles and rear end set up for the amount that I am already spending is small. I realize that I am going to have to take it all apart to paint it, but this way all I would have to do is count the threads, and take pictures to get it to where they had it instead of starting from scratch.

[Advanced Design]

Getting the entire chassis is often a good decision as you've laid out in your post above. It often takes so long to properly update the existing one.
Looking forward to fabrication pictures and ...hopefully you will do a build thread?

[solidaxel]

GOOD CHOICE !!
Be sure and do as much as you can Before you remove any sheetmetal from the truck
As I have gotten older I have learned that my time is very valuable so I did the same thing with my new project

[dsraven]

since you spent all that money why not get a print out of the proper driveline angle for the pinion and front end alignment specs. then set the frame at level and assemble with a digital level. the front end will need to go to a shop for alignment when done but you wanna let the weight sit on the frame for a bit to settle the springs in before that happens. I would say just have them include those numbers with the bill as well as what replacement parts are from. eg, front rotors are from xxx donor car, ball joints, brake pads, park brake cables etc etc. you have the right to know since you lightened your wallet into theirs. haha.

[mr48chev]

Cool, now for the build photos. Keep us posted on the progress.

I'd go along with getting the chassis all squared away as far as possible before pulling the body off the original frame. If you have done a number of them you tend to know and remember where those odd looking pieces go after it has been apart for a length of time but the first time around you want it all fresh in your memory or it starts to be that 5000 piece red puzzle you heard about when you were a kid.
The only rub in waiting to take it apart is that you do have to take the time to do the cleanup and paint work before transferring the part. If I had a big designated work area where I could pull it apart and do all the work on the body that I had planned to do and have it all ready to drop on the chassis when the chassis is ready that could really speed the process up.

[paintman]

Curious to know........Where is TCI located, and what is shipping charges on a whole frame?

[jocww]

Good meeting you too J/Evan??

AD I will do that. if only to help me if I ever have to rebuild it lol

Ds that sounds like a great idea. What angles and other info should I get? I believe all the parts are off the shelf for everything except the frame which is nice.

Mr. 48 do most places accept pieces of the car to paint? I figure that they would want the whole rolling chassis. I also will have to paint the chassis as well.

Paint they are in Ontario Ca. So Cal

[dsraven]

pinion angle with frame sitting on blocks, leveled.
engine angle-should be same but opposite as pinion
part numbers for the control arms, bushings etc
ball joint donor
brake rotor donor
brake caliper donor
brake pad donor
wheel bearing numbers inner/outer/seal
steering rack donor
inner and outer tie rod donor
rear brake size and donor
brake hose donor or custom size, specs for fittings etc
rear axle donor for axles left/right or part numbers for manufacturer match
diff gear ratio and brand if not a donor vehicle match
all info on diff, bearings, seals etc
4 link dimensions for bars, bushing sizes etc including panhard bar (assuming you will have a 4 link. if not then spring specs

[jocww]

Originally Posted by slow4dr

It was nice to meet you yesterday Jonathan. I'll get some pics of the chassis being built and post them up.

-J

Jason, I talked to Evan, but he didnt know. What size wheel and tire can I run? Bs, offset etc? I need to get some wheels in order to pick up the frame.

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by jocww

Jason, I talked to Evan, but he didnt know. What size wheel and tire can I run? Bs, offset etc? I need to get some wheels in order to pick up the frame.

These are conservative based on a 15" diameter wheel. Taller wheels = less sidewall deflection = wider wheels fit.

7" front with 3.25" backspace
8" rear with 4" backspace

The Magnaflow 'Revolver' truck has the following.


Front: 245/40--ZR 19-----8" wheel-----Wheel has 4¼ inch backspace

Rear: 245/45—ZR 20----8.5" wheel-----Wheel has 4 inch backspace

[jocww]

Do you think 17x8 with 4.5in bs with 0 offset would work. the tires are 245/40/R17 theres a guy selling all 4 of them. Sorry Im not the best when it comes to wheels and tires.

[jocww]

J, hows the frame coming along?? Hate the suspense!

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by jocww

Do you think 17x8 with 4.5in bs with 0 offset would work. the tires are 245/40/R17 theres a guy selling all 4 of them. Sorry Im not the best when it comes to wheels and tires.

That tire size seems a bit wide for the front wheels
Ask your frame builder if you will need to tub the bed and what width axle are they instsalling

[focusedontheprize]

Congratulations on the frame, also looking forward to seeing it. I end up modifying my own and will say it was a lot of work.

[jocww]

What did you modify?

[slow4dr]

Originally Posted by jocww

Do you think 17x8 with 4.5in bs with 0 offset would work. the tires are 245/40/R17 theres a guy selling all 4 of them. Sorry Im not the best when it comes to wheels and tires.

I'd rather have too much backspace than not enough. Spacers are a whole heck of a lot cheaper than a new rearend.

Your chassis is on schedule starting the 22nd. I heard we might be getting out early that day so more than likely I'll have pics the following the week.

-J