Broken power window switch? I have a solution! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Russell · 04-24-2004, 03:49 PM

Hey all!

I found myself a new double power window switch at the wreckers yesterday, and to my dismay, when I put it in, it had the same problem, but rather than not being able to put the window up, it couldn't put it down!

So I got fed up, and decided to figure out how it worked inside. Upon opening them I noticed that there are four little contacts inside, each with a little contact pad. For both switches -- One of the little contact pads were missing, the window up contact on the one, and the window down contact on the other. Solution? Take a small peice of soldering wire, put it through, then squash it with some pliers to make a new one! I put it back together and used a dull chisel to knock the little tabs that hold the switch together, threw it into my truck, and bingo! I have total control over both windows!

Same goes for single window switches, or power lock switches!

Hope I can save a couple of you guys a couple of bucks by telling you that you can fix them!

plumbcut · 04-24-2004, 06:56 PM

How long is that solder going to last?

MylilBowTie · 04-24-2004, 09:50 PM

Not to knock it but thats what I was thinking.

Russell · 04-25-2004, 02:30 AM

We'll see... If it has to be replaced once every summer, its better to spent 5 minutes fixing it every couple of months than spending 120 bucks on a new one!

76HighSierra · 04-25-2004, 06:11 AM

You could always have the "pad" built up with silver solder, which is much harder and undoubtedly would last longer. Good going, Russell.

383drvr · 04-25-2004, 01:38 PM

At Autozone you can get a new double switch for $29.

Russell · 04-25-2004, 01:44 PM

Hmm, thats interesting, cheapest I could find up here was 120 after tax for the 81-87 style, I couldn't even find a 73-80 style!

One thing that I was thinking about as far as using the "silver solder (never heard of it...)" is that you don't wanna get the thing too hot or it is gonna warp like something nasty... I'm gonna try one more thing this afternoon with my old switch -- See if I'm any good with the MiG welder and file...

apstguy · 04-25-2004, 06:40 PM

DO NOT GET AUTOZONE SWITCHES! They royally suck. They barly last a year. Do yourself a favor and just get a GM switch.

383drvr · 04-26-2004, 12:25 AM

You may be right, but I've run my autozone switch since I got my truck over two years ago. So far so good

Russell · 04-26-2004, 01:47 AM

Ok, I was scrounging around and I found a small chunk of silver sitting beside a bunch of other little specialty metals, I cut a small sliver off and did the same thing to it as I did with the solder, and made another little contact point -- No more smoke when the window gets to the top as the solder used to melt :P

Seems to be holding up really good, I'll keep you guys posted...

04-24-2004, 03:49 PM	#1
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Broken power window switch? I have a solution! Hey all! I found myself a new double power window switch at the wreckers yesterday, and to my dismay, when I put it in, it had the same problem, but rather than not being able to put the window up, it couldn't put it down! So I got fed up, and decided to figure out how it worked inside. Upon opening them I noticed that there are four little contacts inside, each with a little contact pad. For both switches -- One of the little contact pads were missing, the window up contact on the one, and the window down contact on the other. Solution? Take a small peice of soldering wire, put it through, then squash it with some pliers to make a new one! I put it back together and used a dull chisel to knock the little tabs that hold the switch together, threw it into my truck, and bingo! I have total control over both windows! Same goes for single window switches, or power lock switches! Hope I can save a couple of you guys a couple of bucks by telling you that you can fix them! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

04-24-2004, 09:50 PM	#3
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	Not to knock it but thats what I was thinking. __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI

04-25-2004, 02:30 AM	#4
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	We'll see... If it has to be replaced once every summer, its better to spent 5 minutes fixing it every couple of months than spending 120 bucks on a new one! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

04-25-2004, 06:11 AM	#5
76HighSierra DAMN, I love Big Blocks! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: New Mexico, USA Posts: 619	You could always have the "pad" built up with silver solder, which is much harder and undoubtedly would last longer. Good going, Russell. __________________ Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear.

04-25-2004, 01:44 PM	#7
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Hmm, thats interesting, cheapest I could find up here was 120 after tax for the 81-87 style, I couldn't even find a 73-80 style! One thing that I was thinking about as far as using the "silver solder (never heard of it...)" is that you don't wanna get the thing too hot or it is gonna warp like something nasty... I'm gonna try one more thing this afternoon with my old switch -- See if I'm any good with the MiG welder and file... __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

04-24-2004, 06:56 PM	#2
plumbcut california fill Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sunny So-Cal Posts: 694	How long is that solder going to last?

04-25-2004, 01:38 PM	#6
383drvr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Dallas, Tx. Posts: 308	At Autozone you can get a new double switch for $29.

04-25-2004, 06:40 PM	#8
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,088	DO NOT GET AUTOZONE SWITCHES! They royally suck. They barly last a year. Do yourself a favor and just get a GM switch. __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

04-26-2004, 12:25 AM	#9
383drvr Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Dallas, Tx. Posts: 308	You may be right, but I've run my autozone switch since I got my truck over two years ago. So far so good

04-26-2004, 01:47 AM	#10
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Ok, I was scrounging around and I found a small chunk of silver sitting beside a bunch of other little specialty metals, I cut a small sliver off and did the same thing to it as I did with the solder, and made another little contact point -- No more smoke when the window gets to the top as the solder used to melt :P Seems to be holding up really good, I'll keep you guys posted... __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)



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