Big Bird - 1972 Longhorn K30

[sweetk30]

you MUST get longer grd 8 bolts for the dana 60 spring mount .

you will have to probably cut a few threads off to make them perfect . you want tight but not bottom out .

and nice to see you got NEW u-bolts .

[BlueBullet]

For the bolts that go into the Dana 60 housing I was going to get bolts that are 3/4” longer. With top plate snug that is the gap measurement with a caliper. A little more info I discovered in my research is a standard K20 came with two leafs in front. If your SPID says heavy duty front spring there should be three leaves. Some may already know that but something new I discovered looking between a few different K20’s I have. Also picked up the right ubolts for the rear and new bottom plates.

[Vintage Windmills]

Neat project Nathan. I also fight the antifreeze draining like you mentioned. Maybe I missed it, what are your engine and trans plans?

I came to the same conclusion on the 2 vs 3 leaf front ends on the k20’s

[BlueBullet]

For engine, trans, and transfer case I am going to run the setup out of the K30. 350, TH400 and NP205. Going with the hydro boost and steering box also. Going to convert from TBI to carbureted. Wanted to keep stock look under the hood but with the power steering and hydro boost setup I don't think that is possible. If anybody knows a way to use stock power steering or similar mounting would love to know. I also plan to use the stock trans/transfer case cross member from the K30 and the hanger bearing mount from the Longhorn. Will go with the stock '72 four wheel drive engine cross member. The wheel base on the K30 is 135 so also hoping to use those driveshafts too. We will see how that pans out hopefully soon once paint dries. Been painting axles and miscellaneous pieces. Also cleaning up engine,trans, and transfer case for a quick painting. When the time comes what is the best way to figure out where the hole goes in high hump cover when final location is figured out. Also finding where the holes will be drilled in the frame for engine cross member once that location is figured out. I would assume measure from the topside and drill away just wondering if the is an easier way. High hump definitely has me stumped.

[BlueBullet]

In case anyone is wondering this is what I have used for paint on frame and differentials. If anything is going to put it to the test this project is it.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by BlueBullet

For engine, trans, and transfer case I am going to run the setup out of the K30. 350, TH400 and NP205. Going with the hydro boost and steering box also. Going to convert from TBI to carbureted. Wanted to keep stock look under the hood but with the power steering and hydro boost setup I don't think that is possible. If anybody knows a way to use stock power steering or similar mounting would love to know. I also plan to use the stock trans/transfer case cross member from the K30 and the hanger bearing mount from the Longhorn. Will go with the stock '72 four wheel drive engine cross member. The wheel base on the K30 is 135 so also hoping to use those driveshafts too. We will see how that pans out hopefully soon once paint dries. Been painting axles and miscellaneous pieces. Also cleaning up engine,trans, and transfer case for a quick painting. When the time comes what is the best way to figure out where the hole goes in high hump cover when final location is figured out. Also finding where the holes will be drilled in the frame for engine cross member once that location is figured out. I would assume measure from the topside and drill away just wondering if the is an easier way. High hump definitely has me stumped.

Your truck is really coming along, very nice! Check this page (pages) out from our build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...645614&page=15, pretty sure if you set your motor forward a little in roughly the stock Longhorn 2wd position. You'll clear everything just fine and get really, really close on the drivelines (trans linkage, etc.). Also if you ever decide to go with a big block later on you'll be ready to go for clearance. Since your running the earlier K-member also run the old short water pump setup (shroud and all), that way you can run period correct bracketry including the power steering pump.

Depends on the 205 shifter you are using but we found later that using the earlier shifter wanted the opening in the high hump a little forward from stock. Initially we set ours up with the later square body shifter in the stock location (T400 is longer than T350) and thought we had it. Found later while installing the carpet, boot and ring that it needed to be bumped forward a little. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postcount=1028

Keep up the good work you are killing it!

[BlueBullet]

Thank you for the links. I must be blind looking and reading through your thread. I see now how you plumbed your hydro boost and we're able to use the stock brackets and pump. Cool because that's what I want to do keep stock appearance under the hood and I am going to use stock TC shifter. For hole drilling and cutting. Once you got location figured out how did you go about drilling holes for engine cross member since it is in between the frame rails. Please excuse me if I am missing it in your thread. Also how did you go about determining hole location in high hump. I see you started out with a auto high hump. Thanks again for your help.

[BlueBullet]

Well after the start of the Vikings getting slaughtered last night I had enough and went and painted the axles and a few other parts. Today after work I made some headway. I got my passanger side axle shim made and axles mounted. Then I ordered the shocks, steering stabilizer, and distributor.

[BlueBullet]

Then onto extraction and relocation of the engine, trans, and transfer case. The cherry picker just wasn't cutting it and had to break out my other sidekick Mitty. Bob is just to big and clumsy for the little shop.

[sweetk30]

never seen anyone make a shim for that position .

and my dana 60 axles have been running fine for 15+ years with out one also .

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by BlueBullet

Thank you for the links. I must be blind looking and reading through your thread. I see now how you plumbed your hydro boost and we're able to use the stock brackets and pump. Cool because that's what I want to do keep stock appearance under the hood and I am going to use stock TC shifter. For hole drilling and cutting. Once you got location figured out how did you go about drilling holes for engine cross member since it is in between the frame rails. Please excuse me if I am missing it in your thread. Also how did you go about determining hole location in high hump. I see you started out with a auto high hump. Thanks again for your help.

Lots of pics of what went on in page 14 post 326, 336, 340 & finally 343 is where we set the 4x k-member but don’t think I mentioned how, so if I remember correctly one upper hole (furthest forward) lined up on each rail. Set everything from there using the actual bracket or crossmember as a guide, marked it removed the bracket then drilled (sometimes utilizing a smaller pilot at first to allow for minor adjustment and chase it from the top or bottom outside). The tool we used was a small 3/8” pneumatic right-angle drill with short bits that made drilling those k-member holes easier. I’d fire that baby up and pry against it and the opposite flange to drive it through, good times, glad there’s just a few…

If you use the T400/205 and engine placement mentioned above the factory 4x opening is really very close (we set the cab back on the frame for this step, as part of a sheet metal, drive train clearance, trans linkage & steering mock up). Our cab was an original automatic high hump cab with no opening and had dimples in the cover I’d assumed as a guide for the boot ring screws. With the correct ring I traced the opening and cut it out bingo thought we’d nailed the factory location. But as I mentioned earlier had to move it all forward about an inch, don’t know if my linkage arm had been bent or was the original shape (nothing to compare it to and maybe the other arm we had for mockup was bent?) but since we’d spent the time and effort to have it chromed I was going to run it.

Sorry about the Vikings!

[BlueBullet]

That makes sense on the holes for cross member. I figured that's what you must have done. My trans to transfer case adapter is different then yours so I will have to figure that out when I get there. I have a factory four wheel drive high hump that I can use for reference. Thanks again for your help!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Small shop? I'd take that at my house for sure. You're making great progress on Big bird!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by BlueBullet

That makes sense on the holes for cross member. I figured that's what you must have done. My trans to transfer case adapter is different then yours so I will have to figure that out when I get there. I have a factory four wheel drive high hump that I can use for reference. Thanks again for your help!!

Nathan? No problem, glad to help if I can keep the updates coming.

[BlueBullet]

Today was a good day. Got the front cross member removed along with brake line brackets. Then on to clean up. It was a very good feeling to get the frame in the scrap trailer. Not sure if I am going to make brackets for sway bar or just use newer cross member. Also some goodies should up today.

[BlueBullet]

Next on to test fitting. Just got the cab set down on the frame thanks to 7dee2's assistance so far so good. On first attempt. Original '72 transfer case shifter in 2wd position.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice!

[7dee2]

Sahweet, good job!

[BlueBullet]

I am looking for advice on pinion angle. Wondering if a 10 degree shim would get me in spec? Am I figuring angle right? As in the angle is 10 degrees to sharp. Also on the front drive shaft is a half inch of travel enough? As in if compressed 1/2-5/8 inch it would be bottomed out. By the looks of it I got lucky with driveshaft length in back. I will be running the original hanger bearing cross member for more support for frame and ease on driveshaft.

[7dee2]

Take a look at this calculator and old video from Spicer it might help. http://spicerparts.com/calculators/d...gle-calculator We were able to run a 1 piece drive line but kept the same crossmember you have just incase the GVOD was a turd.

Have the same concern about our front driveline it's close and may need to be shortened before taking it off road. Without an add a leaf and the big block my front end is probably softer and it has not given us any trouble so far (rides like a caddy ).

[Dieselwrencher]

A half inch doesn't sound like enough in the slip joint to me. Brett took care of the angle question.

[7dee2]

I agree with Ryan and you could simulate the travel to know for sure (I'd be interested to hear what you might find?). More food for thought here is ours during mockup and a link to a stock (?) 72 K5 (forum member CCCC). http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=17

[Dieselwrencher]

I generally like to have 1"-1.5" of travel on the front slip. But I also have 1k lb engines on the front end and the springs will move more than most normal trucks.

If that slip joint bottoms out it will be no good for the trans adapter or transfer case.

[BlueBullet]

Thanks guys for your input. I have been brainstorming the past few days and got half the drivetrain dialed in. As I was laying under the cab it dawned on me that the transfer case linkage might be different from '72 to '89. Well wouldn't yea know they are a little different that makes a lot of change. By using the '72 linkage I was able to move the engine, trans, and transfer case back a couple inches. That enabled me to get to the proper travel for the front driveshaft and aligners better in the high hump.

[BlueBullet]

By making those adjustments I still have more run then factory behind the motor and I will be able to run factory radiator pipe and fan shroud. That may be simple but it made my day. I took some pictures and measurements of cross member placements. For the engine cross member I measured from top piece to the top of the front frame cross member and bottom piece to bottom of front frame cross member. In thing to keep in mind is what you are working with. The transfer case linkage is a perfect example. Other things to consider is what engine, trans, and transfer case that you will be using. Don't forget about the trans to transfer case adapter. There are at least two different ones for this setup that I know of which will effect placement.