Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[ChuckDriver]

Slick!

[dug224]

Put the truck back upright and started smoothing out the firewall a bit and tackling the cab corners and old gas cap hole (and CB antenna hole on pass. side).

[dsraven]

looks good. you'll be driving it for the summer at this rate.
don't forget the seam sealer on the back ides of the patch panels.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks good. you'll be driving it for the summer at this rate.
don't forget the seam sealer on the back ides of the patch panels.

Seam sealer is on the list. Also, need to seal the plates I welded in the cab corners to seal of the cab corner pockets. I created kind of an awkward overlap that I need to deal with. While undercoating the cab with U-Pol's RAPTOR (2 part) bed linger, I am toying with the idea of using the bed liner on the firewall and inner fenders. It is rated for 185 degrees F. What do you think about that?

...and then there is the roof dilemma. New roof is $450 plus the labor to replace. May have to beat on it a bit, create a shaped screed/applicator and sculpt a new plastic filler roof much like the last guy did until such a time permits that I can replace it. All existing holes have been welded closed.

[dug224]

....and the dust continues. Targeting next week to start spraying primer and U-Pol Raptor coating. The roof will be stand alone project I can do once the rest of the cab is weather proofed.



Attachment 1766997

[dsraven]

from experience with my roof, it will be difficult to get the roof flat again because part of it is behind the inner roof so access is nil. you could try the unispotter idea if you have access to one. it may pull some of the low spots out. with a big panel it is harder because what you do at point A affects the roof at other points and can be a big "oil can" issue especially on a hot day. it would be best, obviously, to replace the darn thing but that is up to you. if you are just getting the truck good enough to drive around and not doing the rest of the body work then maybe just fill, smooth, prime and carry on, replace the roof later. remember since there is cutting and welding involved you really should gut the cab at that point when replacing so no pinholes in the upholstery or gage cluster, carpet etc. also, there will be some concern for the rest of the truck paint at that time. the cab would be a lot easier to work on if it is off the frame and lower to the ground. if doing later and removing the cab then there are all the other factors like hood alignment, fender alignment, wiring, etc etc.
sorry, my 2 cents is to do it now while it's apart. if it was some other small job maybe it makes sense to wait.
your truck, your wallet, you decide in the end. a full mud job may look ok and last for a long time too. I suggest to mud the complete roof after doing a few tests to ensure there is no oil can effect present first.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

from experience with my roof, it will be difficult to get the roof flat again because part of it is behind the inner roof so access is nil. you could try the unispotter idea if you have access to one. it may pull some of the low spots out. with a big panel it is harder because what you do at point A affects the roof at other points and can be a big "oil can" issue especially on a hot day. it would be best, obviously, to replace the darn thing but that is up to you. if you are just getting the truck good enough to drive around and not doing the rest of the body work then maybe just fill, smooth, prime and carry on, replace the roof later. remember since there is cutting and welding involved you really should gut the cab at that point when replacing so no pinholes in the upholstery or gage cluster, carpet etc. also, there will be some concern for the rest of the truck paint at that time. the cab would be a lot easier to work on if it is off the frame and lower to the ground. if doing later and removing the cab then there are all the other factors like hood alignment, fender alignment, wiring, etc etc.
sorry, my 2 cents is to do it now while it's apart. if it was some other small job maybe it makes sense to wait.
your truck, your wallet, you decide in the end. a full mud job may look ok and last for a long time too. I suggest to mud the complete roof after doing a few tests to ensure there is no oil can effect present first.

All good points...I'm still on the fence on the roof. I'll wrap up all the other small cab jobs then focus on final decision.

[dug224]

Tried hard to buy a roof panel but was unsuccessful. Right when I found one showing "free shipping", it would, by the end of the purchase, require truck shipment totaling $125 to $250. So, while I wait to find an affordable (as I define it) roof panel, I decided to spend a few hours floating out the existing roof panel using my trusty sheet rock finishing tools. Two passes so far on the over door areas. Will rotate the cab forward and do the rear of the cab. The front of the cab roof panel is pretty straight, however, the center has a large dip and is "oil canning" pretty bad. May try to shrink it (?) to at least tighten it up so I can dab on some filler.

I also finally got around to coating the inside of the cowl areas, doors and hard to reach part under the capped cab corners with the green industrial 2 part epoxy primer I have been using. I experimented using a cheapo pump-up bug sprayer. Removed the nozzle so the spray would be perpendicular in two directions. Probably 80% effective and quite messy. Laid down a pretty thick and unpredictable coat and, fortunately used tarps and drop clothes to control the spillage. Definitively located all the seams that need to be seam sealed!

[dsraven]

you may want to have the cab sitting on the mounting areas and doors installed before doing too much roof work with filler etc, just so when it is bolted down it is in the same "plane" as when the filler is placed. just a thought. the best would be to bolt it to the frame and hang the doors I guess.
hard to know what you can do with the roof, looks like the middle is stretched of the edges are shrunk. to bet it back so no oil can you may have to shrink the middle or stretch the edges? you could try an old laundry iron and a wet rag, heat with the iron then quench quickly with the rag. it only has to be hot enough to make a little bit of steam when the wet rag is applied.a heat gun and a wet rag may also help to shrink. the hot iron works well for spots that have dimples etc because it only heats the high spots. the oil can could be tackles from the edges in using a hammer and dolly as well I guess. I have a shrinking disc for the disc grinder that I am learning to use on my roof, awhile back
maybe martinsr has a few tips, or another body guy

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you may want to have the cab sitting on the mounting areas and doors installed before doing too much roof work with filler etc, just so when it is bolted down it is in the same "plane" as when the filler is placed. just a thought. the best would be to bolt it to the frame and hang the doors I guess.
hard to know what you can do with the roof, looks like the middle is stretched of the edges are shrunk. to bet it back so no oil can you may have to shrink the middle or stretch the edges? you could try an old laundry iron and a wet rag, heat with the iron then quench quickly with the rag. it only has to be hot enough to make a little bit of steam when the wet rag is applied.a heat gun and a wet rag may also help to shrink. the hot iron works well for spots that have dimples etc because it only heats the high spots. the oil can could be tackles from the edges in using a hammer and dolly as well I guess. I have a shrinking disc for the disc grinder that I am learning to use on my roof, awhile back
maybe martinsr has a few tips, or another body guy

Yep...looking forward to experimenting. May try the iron/rag approach first.
Another solution may be to put a brace on the bottom of the roof panel inside the cab front to back to push it up. Doesn't take much force to pop it up. Could drill a couple of holes and tack it to the brace as well. Stay tuned. thx

[67Mal]

PM sent

[dsraven]

if bracing you maybe don't wanna tack the roof to the brace, it will possibly show/distort when the roof expands from heat or cool. better to let the roof "float" and use a dab of something in between to stop metal on metal. maybe some of those chair leg felts or a bit of foam. like under the hood on a newer vehicle.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if bracing you maybe don't wanna tack the roof to the brace, it will possibly show/distort when the roof expands from heat or cool. better to let the roof "float" and use a dab of something in between to stop metal on metal. maybe some of those chair leg felts or a bit of foam. like under the hood on a newer vehicle.

Good point. I'll see how my shrinking exercise goes before I commence with bracing. Maybe even seam sealer if I have to brace???

[dug224]

Originally Posted by 67Mal

PM sent

Got it ...thanks. Your Chevelle project is incredible.

[dsraven]

if using seam sealer or other adhesive style caulking between the bracing and the skin, maybe use some wax paper or other non moisture absorbing material against the roof do it won't stick to the roof part. the skin may need support but maybe not attached, so it can float during expansion and contraction.
just a thought.

[dug224]

Logged in a couple of hours watching Youtube videos on how to shrink sheet metal. Plenty of techniques to try and with nothing to lose, I first tried heating with a propane torch immediately followed by hammer & dolly, followed by quenching with a wet rag. Moved the stretch around a bit but had a hard time being consistent. Finally broke out the Oxygen Acetylene rig and commenced with experimentation. Tried the same technique as stated above first using mild heat then I tried it with red hot heat (hence the marks) with no consistency. Finally landed on moving around a 12" diameter circle (see Sharpie marks) with 4 or 5 brief heat touches about 3" apart following each one with a rag quench. I worked my way radially to the center which ended up creating probably about 8 or 9 shots of heat per circle. Created the consistency that I was missing and ended up chasing the soft spots around a bit. I concentrated on three areas and I did 3 passes in each letting them cool for 10 or 15 minutes between passes. Seems I was trying to hurry the process thinking that the heat shrinking was covering a larger area than it actually was. I will sneak back up on it in the morning to see if it is still good and repeat as necessary to finalize this effort.


The correct roof shape is back (see old shape in post #833 above) and the oil canning is gone.

[dsraven]

you'll be starting your own shop soon.
now for some filler and a smile

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you'll be starting your own shop soon.
now for some filler and a smile

Ha! Pushed on the previous oil canning areas. The one closest to the passenger door deflected. I had to push harder than I did before I started but it did deflect but bounced back out. Probably do a few more rounds on it before I throw my hands up.

[dsraven]

just remember when you shrink or expand one place it will affect another place. good luck, hope it goes well.

[dug224]

Roof still a bit messy so I decided to do something I know I could finish.....that is, install the smooth cowl. I used up some old spray paint and painted the never to be seen again area below the cowl and also the back of the cowl. the cowl actually fit pretty well but decided to bend and file a bit to make it fit a little better to minimize the body work. I managed to hold it down with two screws and 3 Cleco's in the factory holes and added two new Cleco's in the top corners. Gambled and did not clamp the top edge and it managed to stay put during welding. Decided to practice patience so I stitch welded it approximately 3" to 4". It took about 30 welds to get around the perimeter. After each lap, I immediately cooled with compressed air followed by a wire wheel in my cordless drill. No apparent deformation but I did hear it pop once. I'll grind and fill next.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

just remember when you shrink or expand one place it will affect another place. good luck, hope it goes well.

I noted this and was prepared. The fun was figuring out what else moved when I tried to shrink a certain area.

[dsraven]

fits pretty good. now a little time with the flap disc and a skim of filler. it'll look like it came that way stock

[dug224]

Dennis...speaking of grinding....I had a hard time getting each stitch weld on the top and bottom to lay flat. I was essentially welding in a valley and the weld would pile up and get thick in the middle (in the valley). Tried fooling with the wire speed and heat and even changed the stick out (moved the welding tip in and out of the cup) to see if I could improve on it. Best result was when i turned down the heat with the tip essentially even with the top of the cup. As a result, I had a little more material to remove with the grinder. Worked like a dream on the butt welds on the left and right side of the cowl. The welds laid down like they were supposed to and required very little grinding/flap flap-discing. Smeared on a thin coat of filler. I'll return to the roof project after I sand and prime the cowl.

[dsraven]

when I am doing these spots I weld about 1/4" at a time, let it cool with the wire still in the puddle, then as soon as the red spot goes away from my welding helmet lens I do the same again. after a seam about an inch long I lay off and cool it off. move onto another area, that way I can get a hotter weld so it lays out better but doesn't burn through or build a little mountain of weld material. what thickness of wire are you using?

[dsraven]

looks really good.
I am messing around with the box on mine. raising the floor, building new cross sills, a battery box etc.