Oil Pan considerations (not clearance)

[FAKKY]

Debating on switching out oil pan.
I know which options as far as clearance and sump design are better for my truck/crossmember.

What Im not 100% sure about is some pans have a few differences in the oil feed and windage trays (I think but dont know ?) basically when you install to ensure done correctly.

I think in one vide the windage tray had to be cut back. In another had to be careful about blockign some port off.

Any good threads on this type of stuff ?

Also will be doing with engine out of the truck - but on my back as it will have trans attached to it and no engine stand.

So any tips or links etc. I'll probably go with a F-body like ls2/ls3 pan.

[truckdude239]

If not lowering the truck then the stock truck pan clears fine mine hangs about an inch below the cross member

[FAKKY]

^^^

Just not sure I really want that much exposed below the crossmember.
Its still higher than the rear diff though .......

Mine is probabaly 2-3 inches. When I get a better engine position Ill post a pic.

Really just checking if I go that route ....... any considerations apart from which plan (clearance of sump size) to ensure I dont block off anything or install anything wrong.

Example might be ....

Cant use windage tray and oil pickup from truck engine if your going to LS2 pan.

[BR3W CITY]

The ls1 pan's windage tray is like 3" longer than most of the others. The truck tray, and I think the CTSV trays are a bit shorter. There are quite a few LS1tech threads regarding trimming the pan down if you need to.

[FAKKY]

Thanks

1) Got a link ? Most threads I havew found are about clearance. Dont need clearance its pretty much covered here.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html


2) Any other considerations - meaning - any oil galleys that can be blocked or other during a pan swap? Or just have at it.

[stomper]

I just installed this F body kit on my 4.8 truck motor. Comes with everything including a shorter windage tray that you had questions about. I researched trying to buy pieces/parts that worked together and cut the windage tray shorter but this kit was the better deal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-Camar...72.m2749.l2649

[FAKKY]

I was looking at the LS2 pan if it fits my front crossmember clearance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-2010-201...8/372312103894


PLus those questions on blocking anything critical etc

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

I was looking at the LS2 pan if it fits my front crossmember clearance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-2010-201...8/372312103894


PLus those questions on blocking anything critical etc

That is an LS3 pan and generally doesn't work well in swaps due to its size, the sump area is really big and it holds like 8 1/2 quarts of oil.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

That is an LS3 pan and generally doesn't work well in swaps due to its size, the sump area is really big and it holds like 8 1/2 quarts of oil.

I missed this.
Wait.

So whats the difference between LS2 annd LS3.

LS2 looks like the main sump is 5" deep

Truck is 8/14" deep

Cant really see LS3 dimnsions

[FAKKY]

hmmm

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...12593/10002/-1

[ls1nova71]

Ls2 and ls3 plans differ depending on their original application. The one you linked in the Ebay ad is a 5th gen Camaro/G8 pan which is the really big one. The GM hot rod pan you linked in your last post is only a couple inches shallower than a truck pan. Based on your truck, I would say you are going to need a 98=02 F body pan. You can get them for about $250 on Ebay,, that's what I paid for the one I just bought.

[Tork?]

The LS3 Camaro pan has a much longer basin.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Ls2 and ls3 plans differ depending on their original application. The one you linked in the Ebay ad is a 5th gen Camaro/G8 pan which is the really big one. The GM hot rod pan you linked in your last post is only a couple inches shallower than a truck pan. Based on your truck, I would say you are going to need a 98=02 F body pan. You can get them for about $250 on Ebay,, that's what I paid for the one I just bought.

I think I probably only need a couple of inches .......

But IM probably approaching this all wrong. Trying to eyeball frame clearance for passenger side AC and also drivers side PS and also oil pan ..... without transmission on - engine on hoist.

So I dont really know where the engine needs to sit in terms of height up and down ....... as need the trans to make sure it fits in the tunnel ......

So maybe I should ;

Put trans on.
Put the oil cooler blockoff plate on and remove the oil cooler lines to give me better idea of drivers side clearance.
Then postition and decide if truck oil pan can work or not ..... based on height which IM just guessing right now.

[ls1nova71]

Yes, definitely put the trans on first, it will help a lot, I don't know how you would ever get it right with the engine hanging from a cherry picker. I looked at your build thread and based on the front suspension you have on it, the truck is going to be pretty low, so the truck pan is going to hang down way past the crossmember. You could raise the whole drivetrain, I'm sure you have the room under the hood, but it would require you to hack the floor and part of the firewall, which it looks like you have just about finished. An F body pan is going to be the shallowest one you are going to find in a factory application.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yes, definitely put the trans on first, it will help a lot, I don't know how you would ever get it right with the engine hanging from a cherry picker. I looked at your build thread and based on the front suspension you have on it, the truck is going to be pretty low, so the truck pan is going to hang down way past the crossmember. You could raise the whole drivetrain, I'm sure you have the room under the hood, but it would require you to hack the floor and part of the firewall, which it looks like you have just about finished. An F body pan is going to be the shallowest one you are going to find in a factory application.

Thanks. I think pretty much the same with most things I've been fighting it thinking

1) Its a truck - I have more clearance than a street car
2) Trying hard to reuse as much of the OEM gear as I can

But I think your right.

So think this is the best value I can find
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-F-bo....c100290.m3507

I did see a GMP77A pan as low as $150 new ...... but when you add the windage/oil pickup --- its not much better.

Thinking IM going to be fighting the same deal on the AC ..... so close on clearance trying to make it work ...... hate to throw away a $200 compressor that should work fine (static displacement) ..... but might have to end up going high mount.

[ls1nova71]

Yeah, that's a good deal! The cheapest one I could find a month or so ago was $250. You may be able to keep the compressor where it is, but it will take some fab work most likely. If you are going to fab up your own mounts, then you can put the engine where ever you want it. I have a '33 Ford with an LS1 and the compressor in the factory spot and its a way smaller frame. What I would do is get the pan, then set the engine in the frame with a block of wood on the crossmember then set the pan on it and shim it as necessary, and build your mounts with the engine where you want it.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yeah, that's a good deal! The cheapest one I could find a month or so ago was $250. You may be able to keep the compressor where it is, but it will take some fab work most likely. If you are going to fab up your own mounts, then you can put the engine where ever you want it. I have a '33 Ford with an LS1 and the compressor in the factory spot and its a way smaller frame. What I would do is get the pan, then set the engine in the frame with a block of wood on the crossmember then set the pan on it and shim it as necessary, and build your mounts with the engine where you want it.

I probably will fab up my mounts ........ just bought a plasma cutter.
Sort of lost me here ...

"set the engine in the frame with a block of wood on the crossmember then set the pan on it and shim it as necessary"

[bs46488]

I bought a 98-02 camaro pan, gasket, windage tray (actually got this from Summit), pick-up, and dipstick from rockauto and paid around $250

[68c10airstream]

FAKKY, I mad my 2001 motor mounts work for my 5.3 4l65e in my 68 c10 with the "F" body pan laid low on the crossmember. Pan to crossmember is probably 3/4" and the sump is above the low area of the crossmember. The f body pan flat bottom is about at the same plane as my trans pan. My only issue after install and the mounts settled in, the sump area forward 90 degree corners just touched the crossmember. I took a sawzall and for the time being notched the crossmember until i pull the motor and tidy it up them.

As far as the factory ac compressor, i will be doing that install eventually using a trailblazer SS compressor because the suction/discharge fittings are forward/rear not side by side. This way i won't need to notch my frame. I suspect i may need to massage or cut out and make a slightly sunken plate for clearance for the compressor. I would rather modify my crossmember than notch my frame but that's just me.

I like the low mount gm ac system, tidy, low, out of sight, easier to do engine work, separate short belt. Bolting on pre-made brackets is easy, but i like to fab things up and be different. I don't like a bunch of chrome, anodized this and that, i like the subtle look. It's great we have these options, and the hobby is this strong. Good luck!!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

FAKKY, I mad my 2001 motor mounts work for my 5.3 4l65e in my 68 c10 with the "F" body pan laid low on the crossmember. Pan to crossmember is probably 3/4" and the sump is above the low area of the crossmember. The f body pan flat bottom is about at the same plane as my trans pan. My only issue after install and the mounts settled in, the sump area forward 90 degree corners just touched the crossmember. I took a sawzall and for the time being notched the crossmember until i pull the motor and tidy it up them.

Sort of following but sort of lost me. Have pics ? I think you are saying that with the FBODY pan it basically sits about 3/4" gap from bottom of pan to cross member ..... but the front corner of sump hits the back of crossmmeber - so you cut that part out.

Curious on the mounts also. I eneded up buying this as the raw material wouldnt be that much cheaper to buy and ship. Each bushing is $15. Add in $20 of metal and $10 hardware .... about what I paid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Swap-Mou...72.m2749.l2649

I bought them unwelded though - so I can move the bushing more to the front of engine if I need.

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

As far as the factory ac compressor, i will be doing that install eventually using a trailblazer SS compressor because the suction/discharge fittings are forward/rear not side by side. This way i won't need to notch my frame. I suspect i may need to massage or cut out and make a slightly sunken plate for clearance for the compressor. I would rather modify my crossmember than notch my frame but that's just me.

I like the low mount gm ac system, tidy, low, out of sight, easier to do engine work, separate short belt. Bolting on pre-made brackets is easy, but i like to fab things up and be different. I don't like a bunch of chrome, anodized this and that, i like the subtle look. It's great we have these options, and the hobby is this strong. Good luck!!

Is the SS compressor a straight swap in terms of bolt patterm/mount and RIB for seperate compressor pulley setup etc.

I have been trying hard to keep the original compressor as I know its fine. It will be a tight fit and I *think* I can make it work ...... but if I am forced to buy another compressor I will probably just go the high mount bracket and new sanden and be done.

[FAKKY]

Oil pan and windage/pickup came in.

Assume its pretty straight forward ? I know in some engines you have to be careful of the seal at certain points to prevent leaks.

[FAKKY]

eg - READ this on LS1.

The proper procedure is the two spots in the front corners and the two places in the back corners where the pan and cover gaskets tee together. Then follow the tightening sequence and torque.

And something about a Jtool. And then this.

If you didn't loosen the front or rear cover to drop/swap pans, alignment should not be an issue. I cracked two oil pans at the front by tightening the front and rear cover bolts before tightening the oil pan bolts. But since your oil pan was removed with the front and rear covers still on, you shouldn't have to worry about oil pan alignment.

*shrug*