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05-31-2002, 09:32 AM
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#1 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,597
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MIG welder
Just got a MillerMatic 175 welder, along with a bottle of inert gas and spools of .023 and .030 wire. I'm a novice gas welder and wanted to move up a couple steps. Any general comments on using a MIG welder, specifically for sheet metal repairs?
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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05-31-2002, 09:58 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,488
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You got a good welder there. Just practice a lot on scrap at first.
I find it best to tack sheet metal and not to try to "weld it up" all at once. Try to get a feel for what happens to the metal as you're welding( the expanding and contracting) I think the best thing you can do when welding sheet metal is take you time, don't try to do a "bunch of welding" all at once. If you have some junk fenders try cutting them apart and welding them back together. Make sure the metal you are welding is nice and clean, no paint or rust. Keep practicing and let us know how you're coming along......eb |
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05-31-2002, 10:28 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 8,853
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Welding is where I run into luck. My father in law is a heavy duty mechanic/ boilermaker/welder. He has been working these 3 trades for the past 20 years, so he feels quite comfortable replacing my rockers and cab corners. Just can't wait to get started now.
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
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05-31-2002, 12:05 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,727
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Get something to practice on. I built a Smoker on wheels. Maybe a motorcycle trailer? Then get an old hood or fender and cut it up and weld it back together. Spend some money on WAY more clamps than you think you need. Anything less than 1/8" you'll have no problems with .023 wire, anything thicker I prefer the .030. Good Welder choice IMO. I have a Century 145 that is great for 99% of the stuff I do, but am planning an upgrade to a Century 250. (60% duty cycle at 225!)
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44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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05-31-2002, 01:07 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: CRESTVIEW,FL,US
Posts: 355
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PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. O YEA AND UMMMM PATIENTS
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05-31-2002, 01:28 PM
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,074
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I highly recommend an Auto darkening Helmet. That alone will improve your welds. It did mine, and I am still teaching myself to weld.
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71 Chevy CST Long Fleet 350/350/3.07 leaf rear. |
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05-31-2002, 01:35 PM
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,597
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Thanks for all the comments. I'll take your advice and pick up an old fender or hood from the junkyard and practice on it.
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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05-31-2002, 11:45 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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GREEN -72 Maybe you mean patients by the parts you use to paractice on. It also takes a lot of patience.
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06-01-2002, 07:27 AM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA
Posts: 1,404
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Don't try and run a bead as you would on thicker metal. Tack it in first, then go back and fill-in between the tacks. Don't weld continuously on one seam. (Metal will expand and get out of shape on you) Weld a little in one spot, and then move to somewhere else and let the previous weld cool. Thin sheet metal will also melt and fall out on you, leaving a larger hole than when you started. Like the others, I highly reccommend practice on another piece of metal compareable to what you are going to weld. Ya might also try welding it in different positions to get a feel for that too. Just take your time, and don't get frustrated.
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   LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class!  1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started. 
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06-02-2002, 02:27 PM
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#10 |
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Registered Cruiser
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 2,230
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Nice Welder. Wanna trade?
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I intend to live forever. So far, so good. |
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