FINALLY got my new brake lines done!

[FL71C10]

I am redoing all of my brake lines in stainless. I bought a complete set of lines from Right Stuff Detailing a few years ago and finally started installing them in August. The rear lines were not right, and the proportioning valve lines were not right as I am using a 3/4 ton brake booster and master cylinder. I tried another set of rear lines from Right Stuff and the new ones were exactly the same (wrong). I called the company and they were not much help. They did refund my money for the second order, but they argued with me about the small lines to the master cylinder. The guy told me they don't do much with older trucks.

So I called Inline Tube and bought a new set of rear lines and a partial front line set that also includes some of the front lines that I don't need but they don't sell just those small lines. I put them all in yesterday and they fit perfectly!

Here are some pictures:

[rockyrivermark]

I replace my entire braking system last year with the restoration since it sat so long with previous owner.
Even added rear disc. Little shop manufacturing economical swap, FYI
Anyway.
I used pre bent stainless lines from inlinetube
$180 for all the lines and they fit perfectly. I had question on the prop valve and their customer service was fantastic.
took about 2 hours to take off old lines and install the stainless.
I highly recommend them.

[twoskies]

just replaced mine from inline tube,all lines and all 3 rubber lines, everything fit perfectly, absolutely no issues, only problem is the pressure clip that holds the rubber brake lines connection tight were broke, have to buy a couple tomorrow, good luck

[88Stanger]

I am doing the same, but i am looking at your master cylinder to proportioning valve and it looks as if they are reversed, or switched. Now i could be wrong, but from everything i have seen, read and done, the front port on the master cylinder is for the front brake port on the proportioning valve and it looks like you have the front port on the master going to the rear port on the proportioning valve. I just would not want you to get all the way down the road and find out then.

[FL71C10]

I was just looking at that yesterday and then saw a friend's truck that is set up opposite of mine. It's a 3/4 ton booster and master cylinder, maybe that is what's different?

[jocko]

1/2 ton mc: front res is for front brakes
3/4 ton mc: front res is for rear brakes

[FL71C10]

Thanks, Jocko. I thought I saw that somewhere. I hope I don't regret putting the 3/4 ton stuff in there,

[kell490]

I foolishly didn't retain my original lines I bought inline stainless a few years ago trying to install the only thing I can figure out is the rear end and the frame run up to the front. The stuff they gave me for the master and front end are way off.

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by kell490

I foolishly didn't retain my original lines I bought inline stainless a few years ago trying to install the only thing I can figure out is the rear end and the frame run up to the front. The stuff they gave me for the master and front end are way off.

I would think there are some people on here that have a truck with out the motor in it and could send you some pictures of the routing

[Andy4639]

I just bought the easy roll brake line and fuel line kits and ran everything myself. $25.00 for like 30ft of tubing with all the connections you need. I ran it all in about 4 hrs one day.

[kell490]

Thanks for the pictures I was looking at the copper nickle Nicopp line some reviews on amazon says it's too soft to get a flare that doesn't leak they had to go buy a spool of steel line. Then I read bad reviews on the steel line that it was very difficult to bend but the flaring was easy. I think I'm going to try the nickle copper the inline stainless kit is not going to work up front. I converted to a BBC with 2" primary tube headers that is interfering some where the lines turn up toward the master.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by kell490

Thanks for the pictures I was looking at the copper nickle Nicopp line some reviews on amazon says it's too soft to get a flare that doesn't leak they had to go buy a spool of steel line. Then I read bad reviews on the steel line that it was very difficult to bend but the flaring was easy. I think I'm going to try the nickle copper the inline stainless kit is not going to work up front. I converted to a BBC with 2" primary tube headers that is interfering some where the lines turn up toward the master.

I bleed the system the other day and had no issues. I haven't drove it yet though. I did pump them up good though while bleeding them.

[kell490]

Looks nice I have the CPP brake master and booster.