"MINE" My 59 fleetside build

[FleetsideBill]

Ok so here I go, I'm building a 59 fleetside, I guess I would call it a restomod.
I want it to look period correct but with modern conveniences like rack and pinion, coil overs, LS3, Tremec 6 spd, AC, etc.

[dsraven]

is the truck next door going to be the donor frame or are you planning on doing up the existing frame with all your mods/wants/NEEDS?
here are a few links to interesting things you may want to spend time looking at before you decide what to do with yours. some are new frames, for ideas mostly, some are frame swaps, some are new home made frames. there are so many options but you should decide what you want in the end and go from there. some will weld in a front end from some other old car. thats fine but will look like a graft and also use old parts so factor in a rebuild as well. some will spend the bucks and get a whole new frame. thats cool too but not that many can afford it. some will lop off the front and weld in a clip then lop off the rear and weld in a big c notch. thats also cool but really a whole new frame-home made or purchased, would be better since the only "old" section is under the cab. the canadian hotrods frames look really nice and the USD goes further there. same as the welders series stuff if you need brackets or bars or other hotrod steel.
post up a want list and see what happens. lots of guys have been there already so you should get some good replies back.
some of the issues you may encounter are legroom due to short cab. finding a suitable seat that fits without being straight up and down, again, due to the short cab front to rear and the slope of the rear cab wall. foot room due to a trans hump install and this can affect the accel pedal mounting and angle. firewall or frame mounted brake master cylinder. firewall mounted requires some stiffening of the firewall.frame mounted means a small dual diaphragm booster or hydroboost system and also some innovative linkage depending on what you do for frame boxing-front suspension etc. it can get close for exh system under there. steering column interference with headers or exh manifolds. frame stiffness under the cab due to cross member removal in the area. this can cause frame flex under the cab mounts which can affect the fender to cab and door fitment. fuel tank style and filler location (please move this out of the cab). rad choice and engine cooling (fan style) choices. this can get tight depending on engine placement.
anyway, let usknow what you are looking at.and POST PICS. we all love pics.

http://www.scottshotrods.com/1955-59...truck-chassis/

https://www.canadianhotrodsinc.com/

https://totalcostinvolved.com/produc...9-chevy-truck/

https://www.heidts.com/part/super-ri...ar-suspension/

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=398361&page=3

https://welderseries.com/?_vsrefdom=...QaAmKmEALw_wcB

[dsraven]

sorry,

WELCOME TO THE CLUB!

nice looking start you have there. hopefully the underside looks as good as the top side. cab corners and fender bottoms look great. check the rain gutter area and the eyebrow above the window for rust. these old trucks have a cowl in front of the window and the drains for this are prone to plugging with pine needles etc. that means water collected can run out the vent onto the inside floor. this is what usually rots the floor, cab mounts, door pillars, steps, inner cowl parts etc. hopefully yours looks as good there as it does on the outside.

[dsraven]

here is a site that may prove helpful for you.
55-57 trucks are a little different underneath because the front fenders are a bit longer so the frame is also a bit longer. the rad support is further ahead and also shaped differently. 58-59 are the same under there. they are the same from the front axle centerline back and may possibly use the same front springs as well. the 58-59 also has different hood hinges and mounting because they use the inner fenders as a mount point as well as the firewall. all aftermarket cabs will say they fit from 55-59. just ensure you know what you are dealing with when you order parts thats all. an assembly manual could be worth the money as it should have the frame dimension diagrams as well as a bunch of other pertinent info.

[FleetsideBill]

Thanks Dave so much.
I have actually posted a few times but wrong place.
Those links are right on point for me I love the motor mounts on the Canadian frames I may use that idea.

Has anyone used the Direct sheet metal firewalls I was thinking of using the 2'' set back one but w/ the curved top I don't want to loose the room but it looks good and I have many holes to fill and some rust any way.
Just wondering where the "loss" actually lands, if its at the firewall i'm ok but toe board NOT

Also steering col location, lengths, shaft,pedals (3),seat information would be great
I'm looking at the chevy truck with the built in belt but don't want it above window, thoughts?
Progressive pedals? with booster/2 masters, how is that for leg room?

[dsraven]

it's Dennis actually, but I have been called worse, lol.
the Canadian frames all have Gm stock corvette stuff. I actually toured their shop a couple of years back and seen first hand. rebuilt on site, it's all the guy does so he should know his stuff. their frames also have the fuel and brake lines (and battery I think) hidden inside with bulkhead connectors for a nice clean look. the frames are cut from sheet with tabs left as spacers for a full depth weld. seemed like excellent quality to me.
the firewall is an easy thing to build from16ga sheet stock. if you are fabricator at all you could save a bunch. I would recommend redoing the hinges and getting the doors and gaps like you want them. then cross brace everything so the cab stays square etc. THEN cut out the firewall and do the replacement. same if you have door pillars to do etc.
here are a few pics of my homemade firewall. pardon the mess. ensure you make templates of the hinge bolt hole locations before you start, with reference drill or center punch marks. some guys have also used a steel wheelbarrow tub for a firewall because it is already shaped and round

[dsraven]

I am using the gm seats with built in seat belts because I wouldn't trust the cab corner sheet metal to hold in an emergency. mine is a big back window cab so not much steel there to begin with. I have seen some guys use the 88-98 chevy truck 60/40 split bench seats with the headrest removed so the seat can be slid further back. no seat belts in those seats though. some guys also use the rear seats from yukons or astro vans. if you want a donor column you need to look for an old chevy van unit with the key on the dash otherwise factor that in. if you want to stay stock then there is a way to cut the old column off above the steering box and retrofit a bearing into the column tube to support the shaft, then grind a flat spot on the shaft and install a u joint there that can carry on to the rack and pinion. search on here or google will probably bring something up

[FleetsideBill]

Oh sorry Dennis it is, I don't really need the room I thought it looked good with the arch, I may tackle the firewall myself. we'll see

[FleetsideBill]

I'll proly go with new, its just what length i go with, I want to keep it neat, If possible I don't want it sticking out of the firewall

[dsraven]

they sorta hafta stick out the firewall some because there is a clamp used to orient it an keep it in place.check kawe aka bam's build to see what has done.

[dsraven]

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...440079&page=85

post 2104 has a pic.

[FleetsideBill]

Trying to put up some pics but keep getting "security token"????

[FleetsideBill]

trying again

[slammed57]

I'll be following... I love the fleet sides!

[RockinKees]

Nice project, I’ll follow along!

[FleetsideBill]

I got some more work done.
As far as the C4 Flatout kit for the 58-59 frames you have to move back from the 27 1/2 inches the directions tell you, If you want the wheel centered in the wheel opening. I moved mine back 1 inch. see the pictures.

[FleetsideBill]

With it tacked up at 27 1/2

[FleetsideBill]

Tacked up at 28 1/2 with a 30 inch poster board in center of wheel for testing.

[RockinKees]

Nice!
I did a Jaguar setup and also went with a 3/4” or 1” difference in the wheelcenter, further back.
Many more has done this, looks way better!

[dsraven]

30 inch is a tall tire, what size do you plan to go with in the end? I am thinking 235/60r17 which is about 28.1" tall. right now I have some 235/55r17 for mock up and they are 27.2". mine is a 57 so a little different fender

[dsraven]

here is a handy little site. a few tabs to work through if you want to see diameters by wheel size or something else.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

[dsraven]

and another important factor to consider, rpm with different diameter tires and gear ratios

https://www.randysworldwide.com/calculators/rpm/

[FleetsideBill]

No I'm probably going with an 8-10 width wheel 18? 20? not sure 26-27 tall?
I was just using an extreme example to see where it would land.
That little bit makes the deference

[dsraven]

not sure the look you like but I personally find the larger wheels leave no sidewall. rougher riding that way plus personally not crazy about the look. to each their own though.

[FleetsideBill]

Oh no I want tires not rubber bands, I'm looking at 4-to 5 inch sidewall but im so far away from that. I did buy the tire tool for clearance testing tho.