Cab Repair Order

[69GMC2004]

I'm about to start doing the rust repair on my 69, and wondering what order would be best to replace rusted out panels. I need to replace:

Cab corners
Inner rockers
Outer rockers
Front and rear cab supports
Small sections of floor in front and near cab corners

I also have to do some minor repairs above the windshield and on the firewall as well, but those are small and straightforward. Cab is off of the truck and stripped, and will be bracing the cab before cutting out any panels. What order would you replace the listed panels? Any other tips or anything I'm missing before I start cutting?

[rjs53]

I started with rockers, seems everything attaches to them. It doesn't hurt to run a strap to support the cab while cutting inner and outer rockers out. After rockers were tacked in place then I worked on floor, did corners last. Take measurements for width and height of things

[AussieinNC]

Apart from the mentioned supporting tubes...

if you are spending time replacing both inner and outer rockers...and cab supports and floor sections..I would perhaps look at putting in a full floor section....

The full floor comes in one piece and has the dimensional points in place like the cab mounts etc...

There are several forum posts from members detailing how to do a full replacement...with an emphasis on making sure the cab is braced well before removing the old floor....

One thing I always do when doing these is to leave the outer rockers until last, Mount the empty door shells and align them to the upper cab lines, then place the outer rockers in place, tack weld, remove the doors and fully weld.

Good luck with the project...

[B. W.]

I'm doing the same now (except for rear supports) & agree with Aussie. I believe it's quicker & easier to put the whole floor in. If I had the $ that's what I'd do.

The order is mostly dictated by the way the cab is built. I removed:
cab corner
outer rocker
inner rocker
kick panel

I left the front cab support to help jig everything back in the same place. I drilled locating holes & installed clecos through the A pillar to the support, likewise on the B pillar. BUT it's hard to get the new kick panel & the inner rocker installed with the support in place so I removed a couple of inches of the support & sand blasted everything.

I am fitting pieces now, then will spray with epoxy primer & install in reverse order.

The experts just hack it all out. I take my time & remove everything carefully. I lay out my cuts & make them a straight as I can. Also mark the locations of supports so I don't cut through them. I save the scrap pieces, they show where the factory spot welded everything.

[69GMC2004]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I'm doing the same now (except for rear supports) & agree with Aussie. I believe it's quicker & easier to put the whole floor in. If I had the $ that's what I'd do.

The order is mostly dictated by the way the cab is built. I removed:
cab corner
outer rocker
inner rocker
kick panel

I left the front cab support to help jig everything back in the same place. I drilled locating holes & installed clecos through the A pillar to the support, likewise on the B pillar. BUT it's hard to get the new kick panel & the inner rocker installed with the support in place so I removed a couple of inches of the support & sand blasted everything.

I am fitting pieces now, then will spray with epoxy primer & install in reverse order.

The experts just hack it all out. I take my time & remove everything carefully. I lay out my cuts & make them a straight as I can. Also mark the locations of supports so I don't cut through them. I save the scrap pieces, they show where the factory spot welded everything.

You might be right that a whole floor is easier, but it is way more money. I looked into one and it's just about $1000 by the time it gets to me. The other issue is that all of the ones I could find were low hump floors, the one I have is a high hump. I got all the other parts I need (including parts that are not part of the complete floor) for well under $250, and actually the floor isn't all that bad.

[ryans69chevy]

I got a complete floor from bowtie truck shop out of Springfield, MN. Call him for a price quote. He is also a member here. I have a manual transmission with the high hump. He recommended I buy the low hump floor because the fitment is a lot better since it is a Tri-Plus floor. All I need to do is cut the low hump out and install my high hump removable pan. Hope this helps.

[69GMC2004]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

I got a complete floor from bowtie truck shop out of Springfield, MN. Call him for a price quote. He is also a member here. I have a manual transmission with the high hump. He recommended I buy the low hump floor because the fitment is a lot better since it is a Tri-Plus floor. All I need to do is cut the low hump out and install my high hump removable pan. Hope this helps.

Unfortunately, I live in the Great White North, which means freight and duty and all that fun stuff makes things quite expensive. But thanks for the suggestion.

[Andyking1203]

I just replaced all the pieces you are talking about, (and then some!!) I started at my inner cowl, firewall then the floor, then rockers and last the cab corner.. if I was I'd start on the inner repairs (floor pueces) and work your way out..

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

I got a complete floor from bowtie truck shop out of Springfield, MN. Call him for a price quote. He is also a member here. I have a manual transmission with the high hump. He recommended I buy the low hump floor because the fitment is a lot better since it is a Tri-Plus floor. All I need to do is cut the low hump out and install my high hump removable pan. Hope this helps.

Kevin, aka "da-burb" on these pages, though he doesn't post much any more, is a heck of a great guy to deal with.

In addition to selling parts, as ryans69chevy points out, he knows these trucks and is a good source of information.

It wouldn't hurt to contact him and see if he is travelling to any shows up that way. Obviously not all the way to Edmonton but if he was up in North Dakota, maybe it would be worth a road trip to save freight?

I bought a re-pop bedside from da-burb's Bowtie Truck Stop and met him at a car show down in St. Paul. That saved me a ton of money in shipping.

[ryans69chevy]

Yeah, I've called him just to ask a few questions on a repair I was doing just to get his input. Real nice guy. I've purchased a lot of panels from him. I guess he sells just about everything for these pickups. I would try giving him a call and see if he has got any cheap ways on getting parts up to you. You might be surprised. Or if it's too expensive then you know!

[69GMC2004]

Thanks for the replies guys. I already have all of the parts that I need and will hopefully be starting to cut out some pieces tomorrow. Building a stand for the cab tonight.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by 69GMC2004

Thanks for the replies guys. I already have all of the parts that I need and will hopefully be starting to cut out some pieces tomorrow. Building a stand for the cab tonight.

Dont get overly excited and cut to much at once.. take it slow!!!

[airbrushguy]

If it helps....I did pretty much what it sounds like you've got ahead of you. I started posting my progress and it grew into a 6 page post. Most of my personal pics are from pages 3 through 6.
This is a great site and the members advice and encouragement can make any job easier.
Good luck!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=airbrushguy

[69GMC2004]

Originally Posted by airbrushguy

If it helps....I did pretty much what it sounds like you've got ahead of you. I started posting my progress and it grew into a 6 page post. Most of my personal pics are from pages 3 through 6.
This is a great site and the members advice and encouragement can make any job easier.
Good luck!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=airbrushguy

Thanks for posting that link, certainly some good visual reference.