need help with door jamb wiring

[james69z28]

Hi guys, my first post!
I am building a 1971 Cheyenne show truck but will drive it on nice days. I bought it half completed and am trying to finish it up as a project to keep me going after having Pancreatic Cancer.
I used to build show cars mostly Camaro's and Corvettes and chevelle's years ago, so I am no novice, but I want this truck to be as nice a driver as you will ever see.
There's one hang up that is really bothering me, it has the 1 piece glass and I put remote power door locks in and power windows now it is time to run the wiring from the kick panels through the door jambs, I bought the braided stainless sleeves but upon looking inside the door and kick panels I can't get to the back side of the sleeve collars to put the retainer rings on much less lock them down due to the inner metal structure in the front of the doors? I really hate to cut a large hole in the inner metal because it is hard to reach from the rearward access hole in the doors and it would have to be pretty big to be able to get an allen wrench into the locking set screw. then on the kick panel side the sleeves have to slide in and out through the mounting collars as the door opens and closes, and there is an inner metal frame about 1.5" inside the A pillar side of the jamb, so I can't put the locking collar on that side either, and the conduit sleeve may not slide in and out without interference?

I am looking at several possibilities and just wanted to see if any of you could show pics of the location you used and how it looks and also how you locked the collars into the metal on each side? I have found some push-in collars that will lock in when pushed in the 3/4" holes I drill but I will have to lock these to the collar before I push them in but I can only find black plastic ones not thin metal.

I know I can use black cloth wire loom, but it just doesn't look very dressed up? Any and all pics are welcomed, and thanks in advance!

[cornerstone]

Welcome welcome! Would love to see what you've got there, any pictures? Check the thread entitled 67 Long Box from member Metaldoc. He recently did a mod that sounds like it might be of assistance to you.
Brian

[OL SKOOL]

I see some of the guys using this set up looks pretty good.

[notsolo]

On amazon....American shifter..55977 12" door loom .....Looks like braided stainless. ...$30. For 2....Don't know if they would be better than what you have, or if threaded would work instead of the collar and Allen wrench.

[Madkidd007]

Could always go this route and then you can put them anywhere. Only catch is the door has to be closed to work

[sprint_9]

Here are some pictures of how I did mine.

Behind the dash a hole is drilled into the cavity that holds the door hinge mounting plates, drill it so it works around your ac vents if you have any, mine is positioned so the wires go above them. Once drilled the hole gets a rubber grommet.

From there the wires travel through the cavity and then exit on the outside of that pillar in the conduit boot. I drilled this hole in line with the courtesy light switch.

Here is a shot of the door looking at the hole for the wires to pass through. The large hole is for the rubber conduit, the inner hole is the inner door brace. The inner door brace gets a 5/8 plastic bushing

A shot of everything assembled.

A shot inside the door.

Everything was wrapped in mesh loom, and then once in the door I wrapped it with split loom as well.

[pappy 2]

I am curious how this may be resolved. I will be using 1 pc glass with A-1Elect. power kit and wire looms as sold by Speedway, which is the same as what I believe are the looms you described. I just assumed I would be able to access the locking nuts thru the opening in the doors, but you are saying this is not possible? Keep us posted as to your resolution.