47-55.1 Running fuel lines

[Matt_50]

I want to order fuel line stuff on this next paycheck and need some advice.

1950 3100, original frame.

350 carbed engine with mechanical pump. Stock engine for a daily driver.

66 mustang tank and sending unit mounted behind axle.


Let me know if I have this right. Pump has 3 ports. One to carb, one from tank and one as a return to tank (engine out of an 84 c10). Sending unit on mustang tank has only one port. So no return to tank.


Do I change the pump or the sending unit?
What size and type of lines should I use?
What kind of flare should I use so I can have rubber lines to connect them all?
Vented gas cap?

[mongocanfly]

youll need a return port on tank to run that pump..or you could just swap the pump..
tank needs vented...either cap or vent port on tank
3/8 line should be fine
I used my brake flare tool to put a small bulb on the end of my hard line...just a little something to help hold the hose on

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

youll need a return port on tank to run that pump..or you could just swap the pump..
tank needs vented...either cap or vent port on tank
3/8 line should be fine
I used my brake flare tool to put a small bulb on the end of my hard line...just a little something to help hold the hose on

Can't improve on that answer.

[Matt_50]

How about this for fuel line?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-ft-3-8-i....c100005.m1851

Mechanical pump. I did a search and I found LOTS of pumps. On summit for example, there are a bunch of different GPH ones. I searched oriellys for a 1970(another search said this year had 2 port pumps) c10 with 350 and found a 2 port one but it doesn't mention GPH.

Should I worry about GPH or vapor lock on a daily driver?

[FAKKY]

I used https://hotrodfuelhose.com/

The quality seems good and the guy is a vendor here.

[e015475]

Well, anything worth doing is worth over-doing, so here's my take on fuel lines.

First, I gotta say I hate worm drive hose clamps and I'm not too keen on rubber fuel hose either. I've had a couple of disasters with off-road cars with worm clamps and rubber fuel hoses (the incidents were self inflicted, but that's beside the point)

I run hard line from the tank all the way to the engine.

For fuel line, I use 3003 aluminum 3/8" tube. It is soft, takes a bend without kinking and is very easy to flare. Summitt and Jegs both sell it, but most of the time I buy it at local HVAC supply stores'



To put a radius in it for bends, I mostly use this tool, but I've used paint cans, coffee cans, propane bottles, or almost anything round with the right radius I want-



For fittings, I use steel JIC pieces. JIC is a defunct standard these days, but it is still widely used in the hydraulic industry. For plumbing a car, it is functionally the same as a 37 degree flare AN fitting. Plated steel JIC fittings are about 10-20% the cost of an equivalent aluminum AN fitting from Earls or Fragola. I mostly buy from DiscountHydraulichose.com but in a pinch the local hydraulic hose supply store (usually the Parker Store) will do.

You'll need to be able to form a 37 degree flare. I use a Parker Roloflare tool, but there's other cheaper alternatives.



I'm just starting to plum my '49 fuel system, and here's the first line going forward to the fuel pump



For clamping the fuel, air and brake line in place, I use Adel clamps per MS21919 DG. They can be purchased for about 25 cents each and are standard in the aircraft industry.

[Matt_50]

I can understand the dislike of rubber lines. Seems like from what I've gotten here and found on Google is 3/8s is the size to go. Anyone got any say on a pump preference or just tell parts guy a 70s truck and call it good?